Antebellum, Flowery Branch

Set in a classically Southern 1890s home in Flowery Branch, Antebellum is a farm-to-table restaurant serving Southern-inspired fare. Nicholas St. Clair's take on our regional dishes reveals his expert hand at seasoning and in the layering of textures and flavors. While the menu has the obligatory fried green tomato and pimento cheese offerings, they unfold in unexpected ways. A vertical stack of cornmeal-battered tomatoes, layered with a sweet bacony jam and toasty rounds of buttered brioche, comes with a shot of shaved mimosa-flavored ice.

Surprise "wow" items abound, like the slurpable smoked tomato vinaigrette on the grilled salmon or the crawfish butter on the dry-aged ribeye. St. Clair's skill and desire to grow has catapulted him to the top of his game. There's no question that Antebellum will only improve with age. (JT)

5510 Church St., Flowery Branch. 770-965-8100, antebellumrestaurant.com