And now for some affordable, refreshing white wines from Spain. That’s a pleasant group of words, isn’t it? I’m thinking of the wines from the Rueda region in this case — wines based on the verdejo grape variety that can ably offer an alternative to those looking for a break from their default order of pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc. To qualify “affordable,” consider that it is pretty easy to find a good Rueda verdejo that doesn’t even venture into the teens, pricewise. In other words, there is really no reason not to try this wine.
Rueda is in northwestern Spain in the larger Castile and Leon region, occupying the high plains (roughly 2,300 to 2,600 feet elevation) northwest of Madrid, inching toward the northeastern corner of Portugal. It is a medium-sized region, compared with others in Spain, concentrated mostly around the town of Rueda, just south of the city of Valladolid. Directly to the west of Rueda is the Toro wine region, known for its tempranillo-based reds. Likewise, to the east, the Ribera del Duero region is renowned for its tempranillos. All three regions are linked, like grape bunches hanging from a vine, by the Duero River. The waterway cuts through the very northern edge of Rueda as it makes its way west to Portugal (where its name changes to Douro) and eventually spills out into the Atlantic Ocean.
Although reds are made in Rueda — just as in those neighboring regions known for them — Rueda has a reputation of being one of Spain’s best white-wine regions, producing dry, medium-bodied blends and varietals. (For the record, Rueda winemakers also produce rosés and sparkling wines.)
Sauvignon blanc, viura and palomino fino are allowed in Rueda whites, but the undisputed star of the region is the aforementioned verdejo. It is an aromatic grape and can offer notes of citrus, stone fruits and tropical fruits, herbs, anise, a floral essence, almonds and even a touch of bitterness. Rueda verdejos are rarely fermented or aged in oak, giving them a refreshing quality that lends itself to being both a fine aperitif and a worthy companion to appetizers, salads, pasta, shellfish, sushi and white meats.
While the verdejo grape variety has a centuries-old history in the Rueda region — and is believed to hail from there — it was only in the 1970s, when the area went through a winemaking transformation, that the grape came to define the area’s hallmark white-wine style. And then, in 1980 an official Rueda D.O. was established. There are several styles of wines within the Rueda appellation, and for a white wine to be classified as “Rueda” it must contain at least 50 percent verdejo. To be classified as “Rueda Verdejo,” it must be made of at least 85 percent verdejo, though many Rueda Verdejo wines are 100 percent varietals.
This brings us to an unusual tradition in Rueda. Instead of referring to their verdejo-based wines strictly as “Rueda,” as is the case in most of the Old World (to name a wine for its place rather than its grape variety), Rueda wines also proudly carry the “Verdejo” name on their labels. It’s a great thing for consumers because it lets us know at a glance just exactly what we are getting without having to memorize every region’s allowed grape varieties or search the fine print on the back of the bottle and hope the grapes are listed.
Dry, fruity, refreshing wine from Spain that is easy to understand and immensely affordable? There’s another fine group of words. Look to Rueda for Saturday-in-the-sun wines that also clean up nicely for dinner that night. Whether the sun is shining or not, make sure to give them a little chill and appreciate them for what they are — refreshing wines that offer a nice alternative to the dry white standbys.
Recommended
Below are 10 wines from Rueda, all of them verdejo varietals hovering in the neighborhood of 13 percent alcohol. They are listed in ascending order, according to price. More than half of them ring up at $11 or less.
2015 Nave Sur Verdejo. Floral and full of minerality, this organic wine was lemony and refreshing, and would make for a nice, light aperitif. $8
2015 Vega de la Reina Rueda Verdejo. This one had ripe stone fruits, pleasantly tart citrus, minerality, anise and spice on the finish. $9
2015 Carrasvinas Rueda Verdejo. Tropical notes, pineapple, hay, melon and anise came together in this soft and spicy wine. $10
2015 Marques de Caceres Verdejo. Ripe citrus and pineapple were complemented by other tropical fruits, minerality and a silky mouthfeel. $10
2015 Beronia Verdejo. A great aperitif, this soft refreshing wine started with notes of lime and orange zest, and led to clean citrus and herbs with a long finish. $11
2015 Verdeo Verdejo. Full of tropical fruit, honey, caramel, peach and anise, this viscous, mouth-filling wine was tempered by bright acidity. $11
2015 Shaya Rueda White Wine. Lime zest, minerality, ripe pear and stone fruits were all present in this rich and luscious verdejo varietal. $14
2015 Oro de Castilla Verdejo. Tropical fruits, citrus and floral notes gave way to minerality and a pleasing salinity in this one. $15
2014 Finca Montepedroso Verdejo. Notes of pineapple, peach, smoke and almond characterized this wine, which was full of vibrant acidity, many layers and a long finish. $16
2015 Martinsancho Rueda Verdejo. Here, a melange of gooseberry, guava, melon and a soft mouthfeel led to a bright, lemony finish. $16
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