Upscale soul food restaurants can be a tricky business. Think of spots past and present as varied as Paschal’s, Sylvia's, Justin’s, the Harlem Bar and Cafe Circa.
In late December, Twelve 06 in Vinings joined that number with a stylish loungelike atmosphere and a New Orleans-influenced menu that reads like a greatest hits of Southern cooking.
The look: Near the entrance, a trickling water wall with the Twelve 06 logo greets visitors. The build-out features a spare, contemporary design, with simple tables and chairs, abstract paintings and a framed mirror above a long banquette. A drop ceiling and dangling art lights define the small bar area, where there's a pair of flat-screen TVs.
The scene: Located on busy Cumberland Parkway, in the same strip center as Marlowe's Tavern and the Vermont Mustard Company, Twelve 06 seems poised for lunch, early or late dinner, or Sunday after-church crowds. One recent afternoon, though, we had the place to ourselves.
The menu: At dinner, appetizers include crab cakes ($13), wings ($10), shrimp cocktail ($8) and fried okra ($6). Among the entrees, served with two sides, look for jambalaya with chicken, shrimp and sausage ($19), smothered steak ($16), fried chicken ($14), and blackened catfish ($14). Signature sides ($5 each) -- mac and cheese, candied yams, fried corn, collards, coleslaw and green beans -- can be made into a four-item veggie plate ($13).
The drinks: The bar is stocked with neat rows of wine glasses. But there's no liquor license, yet. Soft drinks, sweet tea, fresh lemonade and fruit punch are the choices, for now.
The extras: Daily lunch offerings include starters, soups and salads ($7-$11). Fried catfish or shrimp po' boys ($11) come with fries or a side salad. Southern classics ($10), such as fried fish or smothered chicken, come with one side. For dessert ($6-$7), there's banana pudding, peach cobbler and cheesecake.
Dining out
Twelve 06, Vinings
11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mondays-Sundays.
Appetizers, $6-$13; soups and salads, $5-$9; entrees, $9-$19; sides, $5.
2355 Cumberland Parkway S.E., 770-319-1206
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