First Look: Masani Gourmet Southern Cuisine in Marietta

Named for chef/owner Harold Howard’s mom, Masani Gourmet Southern Cuisine in Marietta is one of those quirky labors of love that defies easy description.

Howard is a former mortgage broker with a passion for cooking and jazz music. His food mixes Southern soul with Asian and Mexican touches. On the plate, that might mean a field green side salad adorned with sliced strawberries and orchid flowers, a Thai-style whole fried red snapper ($24.95) or a Baja-style whole fried lobster (market price).

The look: Howard took over a freestanding building across from the Coca-Cola bottling plant on Cobb Parkway North. He spruced up the former House of Seasoning buffet space with etched bamboo flooring, plush booths and cafe tables appointed with white linens and candles.

The scene: At lunch on a recent afternoon, it seemed Howard was spending as much time in the dining room as the kitchen. He greeted customers at the door and talked up the daily specials table-side, telling one couple that his red velvet cake for two ($7.95) could be considered an aphrodisiac.

The menu: The meandering offerings open with the likes of salmon chowder with sherry ($7.95), collard green dip with homemade chips ($7.95) and a Korean-style grilled pork chop salad ($10.95). Sandwiches include bone-in fried chicken with honey mustard sauce ($10.95). Entrees range from salmon croquettes ($15.95) to smothered or barbecued chicken ($16.95) and baked fish with crab and lobster ($24.95).

The drinks: Masani doesn't have an alcohol license yet. In addition to soft drinks and coffee, fresh brewed iced tea is infused with cinnamon and other spices.

The extras: Every Saturday, the Masani house jazz band performs. There's no cover, but the multi-course fixed price menu ranges from $35-$75 per person and there's a $15 corkage fee. On Sundays, there's a similar fixed price menu for the gospel brunch.

Dining out

Masani Gourmet Southern Cuisine in Marietta

Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Wednesdays-Fridays. Dinner: 5:30-8:30 p.m., Wednesdays-Fridays; 6:30-10 p.m., Saturdays. Brunch: noon-5 p.m., Sundays.

Appetizers, soups and salads, $6.95-$11.95; sandwiches, $10.95-$13.95; entrees, $15.95-$24.95; desserts, $7.95. Brunch, $21.95-$40.

915 Cobb Parkway N., Marietta, 678-598-2121, www.masanicatering.com