The motto at Chicken and the Egg is “Modern Farmstead Fare.” That describes chef/owner Marc Taft’s raison d’etre. And judging from the crowds coming to the new West Cobb restaurant, the melding of familiar American food and an upscale setting has filled a neighborhood dining void.

The look: Situated in the Burnt Hickory Village Shopping Center on Whitlock Avenue, the more than 8,000-square-foot space opens from a large bar area backed by a glowing, glass-enclosed wine display to a sprawling main dining room that seats 130. The design by Seiber Design, Inc. updates farmhouse decor with reclaimed wood tables and other eco-friendly materials. A conference-style private dining room comes complete with A/V equipment.

The scene: One recent afternoon, most sections of the bar and dining room were packed. The chatty lunch bunch ranged from couples and business groups to several police officers. Almost everyone seemed to be enjoying Southern-style meat-and-two plates ($9), such as plump fried chicken breasts, mashed potatoes and green beans.

The menu: At dinner, look for starters like peach and prosciutto salad ($7) and buttermilk fried oysters ($8), and entrees like chicken and dumplings with baby carrots and cipollini onions ($15) and short ribs with smoked Gouda au gratin potatoes ($17). Grilled steaks include a 7-ounce filet ($21) and a 21-ounce bone-in cowboy ribeye ($29).

The drinks: Bartender Brandon King features culinary cocktails with a Southern twist. The Dirty South ($9) blends Georgia-produced 13th Colony gin and pickled okra juice, garnished with pimento cheese-stuffed pickled okra. Surprisingly, the beer list has just two local offerings, Sweetwater 420 ($4.50) and Terrapin Hopsecutioner ($5.50).

The extras: Chicken and the Egg serves lunch Mondays-Fridays. Beyond blue plate specials, find soups ($4) salads ($7-$12) and sandwiches ($8-$10). Brunch on Saturdays and Sundays brings on the likes of steak and eggs ($14) and fried green tomato Benedict ($11.50).

Dining out

Chicken and the Egg, Marietta

Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 5-8 p.m. Sundays. Brunch: 9:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. Bar open all day with a limited menu between lunch/brunch and dinner.

Starters, $6-$10; entrees $14-$19; steaks, $21-$29; sides, $5; desserts, $3-$6; lunch plates, salads and sandwiches, $9-$12.

800 Whitlock Ave., Marietta, 678-388-8813, chickenandtheegg.com