Italian-inspired restaurants are hot stuff around Atlanta these days, and No. 246 near Decatur Square tunes into the trend with a mix of local ingredients and simple wood-fired cooking that owes as much to Napa as Napoli.
Ford Fry, owner and executive chef of JCT. Kitchen & Bar, and Drew Belline, most recently the chef de cuisine at Floataway Cafe, partnered to create the concept, which is already stirring up a buzz with its lineage and location.
The look: The former Eurasia space on East Ponce was transformed from dark and intimate to light and airy by designer Smith Hanes. Tall windows, reclaimed wood floors, huge vintage-style ceiling fans, cushy banquettes, zinc top tables and a long black granite bar create a chic bistro atmosphere.
The scene: One recent afternoon, the bar was filled with servers from nearby Brick Store Pub and Leon's, who'd stopped by to check out the cocktail skills of bartenders Lara Creasy and Jesse Smith. Later a local restaurant critic rubbed elbows with a group of stylishly dressed South American tourists.
The menu: The heart of Belline's daily offerings are listed under "flour & water." That means pasta dishes, such as spaghetti with Georgia white shrimp ($10/$16), available in half or whole portions. And pizzas, such as Ken's Wild Mushroom Pie with mozzarella, parmesan and arugula ($16). At the top and bottom of the menu, look for spreads in jars, such as house-made ricotta with chanterelles ($3) served with toasts, and plates such as the pan-roasted escolar with local cucumbers and pickled onions ($22).
The drinks: Creasy's recent cocktail list features a Pimm's Cup made with Cynar and house limoncello ($8) and a saffron-orange-infused gin drink with Strega, muddled mint and Pellegrino ($9). Draft beers ($5) have included Flying Dog IPA and Unibrou Ephemere. The heavily Italian wine list is mingled with a few California selections.
The extras: No. 246 serves lunch 11 a.m-3 p.m. every day, with slightly lower prices on pizzas, pasta and plates. There are also lunch entree salads ($9-$14) and sandwiches ($10-$11). Every Monday night, the four-course spaghetti supper special is $24.
Dining out
No. 246 in Decatur
Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 5-9 p.m. Sundays.
Starters, $3-$14; pasta, $7-$17; pizza, $10-$16; plates, $14-$26; sides, $4; desserts, $3-$7; lunch salads and sandwiches, $9-$14.
129 East Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur, 678-399-8246, no246.com
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