In a round-up of the best pizza in 15 major American cities, restaurant rating company Zagat has declared that the best pizza in Atlanta isn’t in the city limits — it isn’t even ITP.
While O4W Pizza started in its eponymous Old Fourth Ward, it moved to Duluth in 2016, bringing its popular Grandma Pie with it. Zagat listed the restaurant as the best in Atlanta and one of the “must-try” pizzerias in the country.
O4W Pizza is known best for its crispy, square-crusted Grandma Pie, made simply with sauce, cheese and basil. The 16-inch square crust, sauce and cheese creation was celebrated as a study in minimalist perfection, and drew crowds to his O4W stall at Irwin Street Market in Old Fourth Ward before the move to Duluth.
“When I came down here, the Grandma Pie was never meant to be what it turned out to be,” Spina said. “That was a specialty pizza I had in my restaurant in Jersey. But it just blew up here. And I realized as I was working with it that it was good opportunity to try out other different types of pizzas.
Fans will be happy to know that in addition to the original Grandma Pie, there are two more versions — Spicy Italian with meatballs and pepperoni, and Veggie Square with sauteed spinach, mushroom, onion and roasted pepper.
The restaurant also offers “classic” thin-crust pies in the style that Spina grew up enjoying; thick-crust, rectangular Sicilian-style; and chewy, deep-dish Detroit-style.
“My whole thing is just keeping it simple,” he said. “I make a lot of different things with the same ingredients. We’ve always made our own dough, bread, marinara, fresh mozzarella, meatballs, Berkshire pork sausage. So all those things go into our pizza and sandwiches.”
Atlanta is the only city on Zagat’s list to have its best pizzeria outside city limits. If it’s worth fighting traffic, it must be worth a try.