Gateway to the Island

By Blake Guthrie

For the AJC

In the extreme southeast corner of Georgia, on a spot once favored by Native American tribes, is the small estuary port town of St. Marys.

The Spanish, French and British all had settlements here at one time, and the entire waterfront district is on the National Register of Historic Places.

These days this fishing village is best known, and even markets itself, as the gateway to Cumberland Island. But in addition to being THE place to catch the ferry to a wild and federally protected barrier island, St. Marys has more to offer visitors, even during the winter holidays, when the temps are relatively mild and there is still plenty going on.

Don’t miss

Candlelight Tour of Homes: St. Marys has a lot of historic houses that aren’t ordinarily accessible to the general public, except during this annual holiday event. Many homes dress themselves to the nines with Christmas lights and decorations, serve refreshments and provide entertainment as attendees walk from stop to stop on the self-guided tour. Transportation between stops will also be available. 5-9 p.m. on Friday. $10 advance, $15 day of tour at the St. Marys Welcome Center, 406 Osborne St. 912-882-4000; www.stmaryswelcome.com.

Orange Hall House Museum: Built in the first half of the 19th century, the main floor of this antebellum Greek Revival mansion is actually the second floor, accessed from the front by a large banister staircase. Orange Hall has been a private home and an apartment building through the years before being turned into its present incarnation as the St. Marys history museum. It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1973. On Dec. 17 between dusk and 9 p.m. there will be a live Nativity on its lawn. 311 Osborne St. 912-576-3644

Cumberland Island National Seashore: Although Southerners have known about Cumberland Island since it was a summer retreat for the Carnegie family during the Gilded Age and a cotton plantation before that, it was the wedding of John F. Kennedy Jr. here in 1996 that put the island in the international spotlight. Maintained by the National Park Service since 1972, the only way for the general public to reach Cumberland is via the Cumberland Queen ferry at the St. Marys waterfront. The ferry operates year round. Once on Cumberland you may feel like you have the island to yourself, as only a certain number of people are allowed access per day and there’s plenty of space to roam once you get there. You may spot wild horses galloping on undeveloped white sand beaches or encounter wild turkeys and armadillos while hiking through a pristine maritime forest. www.nps.gov/cuis

St. Marys Submarine Museum: Housed in an old movie theater and filled with submarine memorabilia and interactive exhibits, including a working periscope, this is an attraction for the kids and military history buffs in your party. “Why a submarine museum here?” you might ask. Well, it only seems natural, since the large Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base, home to the Trident submarine, is located just outside of town. 102 St. Marys St. 912-882-2782, www.stmaryssubmuseum.com

If you go

Getting there

St. Marys is 345 miles from downtown Atlanta. Take I-75 South to I-16 East in Macon. In Savannah, take I-95 south to Exit 1. Take a left on St. Marys Road to Ga. 40 East, which will take you into town.

Where to stay

● Riverview Hotel. On the waterfront near the Cumberland ferry in a historic building. Rates $79-$129. 105 Osborne St. 912-882-3242, www.riverviewhotel
 stmarys.com

● Spencer House Inn. A 14-room bed and breakfast within walking distance to the waterfront. Rates $125-$235. 200 Osborne St. 888-840-1872, www.spencerhouseinn.com

Where to eat

● Trolley’s Seafood Grill. Casual seafood dining directly on the waterfront. Entrees $8-$15. 109 W. St. Marys. 912-882-1525.

● Captain Seagles Restaurant. Located in the Riverview Hotel and frequented by locals as well as tourists. Entrees $9.95-$22.95. 105 Osborne St., 912-882-2472,‚ www.riverviewhotelstmarys.com/dining-st-marys-ga

Visitor information

St. Marys Convention and Visitors Bureau. 912-882-4000, www.stmaryswelcome.com

Provided by Demand Studios