Road trip: Tybee Island

By Blake Guthrie

For the AJC

The closest oceanfront beach to Atlanta is on Tybee Island. For those who prefer old-school ambiance to the modern high-rise over-development that plagues many popular beach areas in the Southeast, Tybee is for you. This historic barrier island gets its name from a Native American word for salt. After the Civil War, steamships began carrying tourists from downtown Savannah to the island. In the late-1800s, Tybee became more accessible with the opening of a rail spur to its beaches. Then, in the 1920s, a road was built over the tidal creeks and through the salt marshes connecting the island to the mainland. Tybee Island became a coastal retreat for all social classes, not just the moneyed set, a charm it retains.

Beaches

The heartbeat of Tybee Island can be found at its pier, anchored by a large pavilion where beachgoers seek shade, picnic tables and concession stands selling all-manner of snack foods and frosty beverages for kids and adults. This is the most crowded part of the beach, a place for people-watching and being watched as you sunbathe and frolic in the surf. The north and south ends of the island have the same beach, but less crowds and no pier. Plenty of access points exist along the entire strand, but you’ll have to pay for parking, even in the less crowded areas. Tybee Island funds its services with help from an elaborate metered parking system that Atlantans will appreciate with its thoroughness. Unless you’re on the private lot of a home or a business, there is no free parking on Tybee during the day. Rent a bike to avoid parking hassles; Tybee is bike-friendly and small enough that you can get anywhere you need to by peddling.

What may surprise first-timers is the island’s extensive dune area. Most beachfront accommodations aren’t really on the beach, but a short trek away via a scenic sandy footpath or a dune crossover. Circle around to the inlet beach on the breezy southern tip of the island and you may see some thrill-seeking kite surfers glide fast across the water and soar through the air, or at least find your own secluded patch of sand to call yours for a day before watching the sunset over the marsh.

Upcoming events

Labor Day weekend is like the Fourth of July on Tybee. On Sept. 4 the pier will be the site of the Labor Day Beach Bash, with live bands performing all day long at the pavilion, and a large fireworks display in the evening.

The seventh annual Tybee Island Pirate Festival takes place Oct. 6-9. This festival over Columbus Day weekend includes plenty of activities for kids and adults, such as the Pirate Victory Parade, costume contests and the Swashbucklers Bash for the 21-and-older crowd.

The next weekend, Oct. 15-16, the 15th annual Festival of the Arts features many of the region’s finest artists and craftspeople, as well as a celebration of the culinary arts.

Historic sites

If you make the effort to climb the 178-step circular staircase up Tybee Island Light Station’s non-air-conditioned lighthouse tower, you’ll be rewarded when you reach the observation deck with the best views of the island from on-high.

Located at Fort Screven on the north end of the island, the lighthouse still has its support buildings, including the light keepers’ house, making it one of the country’s most complete historic light stations.

Across the street, the Tybee Museum is housed inside one of Fort Screven’s old artillery batteries and contains exhibits detailing Tybee’s rich and varied history, from the time nomadic Native American tribes roamed its shores up to the modern tourist era.

Before crossing the bridge onto Tybee, you’ll pass the entrance to Fort Pulaski National Monument located on Cockspur Island.

The 19th-century military fort’s walls are pockmarked with the many cannon shots it incurred during the Civil War.

The site is also a good spot for some secluded outdoor activities, 
like hiking on nature 
trails, biking and birdwatching.

If you go

Tybee Island is 4 1/2 hours from downtown Atlanta. Take I-75 south and I-16 east to Savannah. From downtown Savannah, East President Street becomes Islands Expressway and merges with U.S. 80 east to the island.

Stay

Mermaid Cottages. This vacation rental company offers cottages all over the island, including many well-appointed historic properties and a beach house owned by TV personality and cooking legend Paula Deen. Nightly rates $125-$350. 912-313-0784, www.mermaidcottages.

The Georgianne Inn. Affordable seven-room inn in a historic renovated house a half-block from the beach that offers free use of bicycles and beach gear to its guests. In-season rates start at $125, off-season $75. 1312 Butler Ave., Tybee Island. 912-786-8710, www.georgianneinn.com.

Eat

CoCo’s Sunset Grille. One of the best spots to see the sunset is from the patio of this seafood restaurant located at the marina next to the bridge leading onto the island. Dinners start at $11.95. 1 Old U.S. 80, Tybee Island. 912-786-7810, www .cocossunsetgrille.com.

Tybee Island Social Club. Gourmet taqueria that also serves upscale burgers and fresh seafood in a casual beach bungalow atmosphere. A la carte tacos start at $5.50. 1113 Butler Ave., Tybee Island. 912-472-4044, www.tybee
islandsocialclub.com.

Visitor info

Tybee Island Visitor Center. 802 First St.. 912-786-5444, www.tybeevisit.com.