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Berry Springs Lodge near Gatlinburg has 11 spacious rooms, most with access to mountain views from a private porch or balcony, and some with two-person whirlpool baths.
Lodge at Buckberry Creek (ENLARGE)
The Lodge of Buckberry Creek near Gatlinburg has 45 units in five buildings clustered on 29 acres with unobstructed views of Mount LeConte. The lodge opened in 2005.
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Gatlinburg, Tenn. — Some people are put off by the ticky tacky of Gatlinburg and its even more over-the-top sister city, Pigeon Forge. Others think these Smoky Mountain towns are loads of fun.

But with a little effort, you can find another Gatlinburg altogether — a sophisticated side of a town where the tourism has gotten just a little out of hand.

Skip the excess

It's disconcerting to arrive for a mountain vacation and feel overwhelmed by rows of large neon-signed motels, an excess of T-shirt and souvenir shops, and billboards touting outlet shopping, aerial tramways, video arcades and all-you-can-eat restaurants. But happily, there are also a few classy places to dine, shop, sleep and enjoy the outdoors without running into entirely too many of other people's children.

First, go for high quality lodgings. You can rent a cozy cabin, where choices range from ultra-rustic to deluxe. Web sites such as www.cabinsofthesmokymountains.com or www.mountainchalets.com are good places to start.

But if you'd rather check into a tastefully appointed suite with fine linens, down pillows and your own candlelit, whirlpool-equipped bathroom, seek out one of a handful of luxury, full-service accommodations.

Upscale inns

One of the newer country inns is Berry Springs Lodge, between Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge in a peaceful, rural area. Surrounded by 33 acres of forest and meadow, Berry Springs offers 11 spacious rooms, most with access to breathtaking mountain views from a private porch or balcony, and some with two-person whirlpool baths. Room rates include full breakfast and evening desserts, and hosts Sue and Patrick Eisert will pack picnic lunches for you to enjoy in your room, on the grounds or to take in your backpack for a hike in the national park. The Eiserts opened Berry Springs six years ago and have recently added a fun, grill-it-yourself dinner option where you can cook steak, salmon or chicken and enjoy it — along with plenty of sides and dessert — from the shaded Mountain View Pavilion adjacent to the lodge.

Closer to Gatlinburg but still very much with a country feel, the Lodge at Buckberry Creek was launched in 2005 by the McLean family. It's quickly earned a reputation as the crème-de-la-crème of log cabin accommodations. Calling their mountain retreat "rustic but elegant," James and Buddy McLean modeled Buckberry after the great camps of America, combining east Tennessee log construction and stylistic touches from lodges of the Adirondack Mountains they studied while living in upstate New York. They've created an all-suite experience with 45 units in five buildings clustered on 29 acres with unobstructed views of Mount LeConte, at over 6,500 feet one of the tallest Smoky Mountains. Each one- or two-bedroom suite has a full kitchen, fireplace and whirlpool or soaking bathtub.

Eight Gables Inn, in the hills on the edge of town, isn't as secluded as Berry Springs or Buckberry. But once on the property you'll feel enveloped in an opulent cocoon and won't pay a moment's attention to the gigantic new development across the street. Eight Gables has 19 rooms and suites in three buildings. The garden suites adjacent to the main building have the plushest rooms, each with a private balcony and fireplace. Owner Penelope Binning makes sure your stay is letter-perfect. Binning and two of her children bought the inn, which opened in 1991, from its original owners last year, and they are determined to maintain the standards that have earned Eight Gables a Mobil Three-Star Award for 13 straight years.

Dining and shopping

While many restaurants compete for vacationers trying to feed a family on a budget, a few establishments cater to the more demanding diner.

Probably the most ambitious restaurant in the region is at the Lodge at Buckberry Creek. Chef Winston Guerrero has an impressive résumé that includes the Peninsula in New York City and a Relais & Chateau property in Virginia. His menu of "refined mountain cuisine" includes Southern comfort foods such as shrimp and grits but also Andouille Stuffed Pork Loin or Rosemary Cured Filet of Beef.

At Eight Gables Inn, overnight guests get plenty of food beginning with a gourmet breakfast and refreshing afternoon tea and snacks. The inn also serves dinner on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, when you can choose one of two or three entrees when making a reservation—usually seafood or meat, with vegetarian entrees provided upon request—accompanied by the chef's choice of appetizer, sides and dessert.

Another agreeable option is the Greenbrier restaurant, on the edge of Gatlinburg in a rustic log cabin. Built in 1939, the Greenbrier's floor-to-ceiling windows afford woodland views while you sample the seafood-oriented menu.

Between meals, check out some of the excellent art galleries and crafts shops in town.

Sculptor and painter Jim Grey has two first rate galleries in town—one in the Arts and Crafts Community cluster of shops—where you can enjoy some of his seascapes and other paintings and prints. A special Arts and Crafts Trolley follows an eight-mile scenic loop with many stops along the way at workshops and galleries of the largest group of independent artists and crafts people in the U.S.

Gatlinburg is home to the renowned Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts, which has been training Tennessee artists since 1910. In summer and fall, the school offers workshops and classes to the public. Be sure to visit the Arrowmont's galleries to see works by current and past faculty and students, and go to www.arrowmont.org to see their full schedule of classes, shows and exhibits.

IF YOU GO

Getting there

Gatlinburg is about 200 miles northwest of Atlanta, about a four-hour drive. Take I-85 North to I-985 North toward Gainesville, then merge onto GA-365 North and go straight to US-23 North/US-441 North and continue to follow about 45 miles, then merge onto US-23 North/US-441 North. Merge onto US-74 West/ US-441 North and watch for Exit 74 toward Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and turn left onto US-441 North and follow to Gatlinburg.

Information

Berry Springs Lodge, 1-888-760-8297, 2149 Seaton Springs Road, Sevierville, Tenn. www.berrysprings.com. Rooms range from $149-$189, with suites at $229; check the Web site for weekday specials.

Lodge at Buckberry Creek, 961 Campbell Lead Road. 865-430-8030, www.buckberrylodge.com. Rates start at $180 and $350 and up for one of the aptly named Grand Suites. The restaurant is closed on Sunday and Monday.

Eight Gables Inn, 214 N. Mountain Trail. 1-800-279-5716, www.eightgables.com. Rates start at $160.

The Greenbrier Restaurant, 370 Newman Road, serves dinner daily; it does not accept reservations. 865-436-6318; www.greenbrierrestaurant.com.

For more about lodging, dining, shopping, outdoor activities and other attractions in Gatlinburg, 1-800-588-1817 or go to www.gatlinburg.com or www.gatlinburg-tn.com.

Information about the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, which has no accommodations within it, is at www.nps.gov/grsm or 865-436-1200 for recorded visitor information.