AJC TRAVEL NEWS

Fly-fishing really does help you go with the flow

The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Asheville, N.C. — The plastic speckled trout dangling from the rearview mirror teased me. But I was intrigued when my fishing guide confessed his love for the sport in the way people often disclose truths along riverbanks.

“If you get too stressed out, all you have to do is look around and see you’re standing in the middle of a river instead of in a cubicle,” Teo Whitlock said. “It’s kind of ruined me.”

Enlarge this image

Vanetra Means

That’s me, reporter Rana L. Cash, along with guide Teo Whitlock, showing off the 20-inch rainbow trout I reeled in on the Davidson River in North Carolina. We let it go, so maybe it’s waiting for you.

North Carolina travel stories


By the end of my four-hour expedition, so was I.

Worn to the nub by a steady stream of ugly economic news, I sought a stress-free moment.

Fishing was always my father’s respite. A tackle box, small pail of worms and a couple of reeling rods were his prized possessions. Sometimes he came back with the catch of the day; sometimes he had only unbelievable tales spun in his head on the ride home.

Only recently had I considered turning to the same escape.

Whitlock’s truck was parked in front of our downtown Asheville, N.C., hotel when we arrived. The poles poking out the window made him easy to pick out. My fishing partner and I quickly jumped in the truck. The three of us chatted over the country music playing in the background as we headed north to the Pisgah National Forest and the beautiful Davidson River.

Whitlock traced through the park like you would the lines on the palm of your hand. He grew up in his father’s fly-fishing shop, Hunter Banks. After 20 years, Drake Whitlock sold his interest in the business and joined his son in becoming full-time guides and owners of Altamont Anglers.

It’s a life the son chose, but it very well could have chosen him first. His brother is an English literature professor at the University of Houston. Teo, too, had academic pursuits, but he quickly abandoned them for lures.

“I went to the College of Charleston for a year and became a statistic,” he said. “I ended up back here. I don’t consider going fishing everyday work.”

He tries hard to make sure his clients have a great experience, though.

We headed for the Pisgah Wildlife Education Center, a meeting place for the hikers, campers, bikers and fishermen who frequent this wooded playground.

Sheets of ice struggled to melt under the unseasonably warm sky on the day of our visit. Sunlight broke through bare limbs and reflected on the slow river. In waders and boots, we traversed down a small incline to brave the chilly water. Just beyond our reach, brown and rainbow trout swam unencumbered.

Whitlock prepared our lines — we do wish he’d shown us how — and then calmly coached us through casting techniques.

Patience is an angler’s best companion, and I was fully prepared for a wait before the small white fly floating downstream dipped beneath the surface.

Finally, my friend, Vanetra Means, snagged a 12-inch brown trout. We high-fived across the water, then returned to our task.

Moments later, my own fly disappeared, and I yanked my rod — too hard, I’m sure — in the opposite direction. A valiant fight between me and the big fish ensued. Whitlock talked me through it.

“Bring that nose up out of the water,” he said. “Let him run when he wants to run.”

I took a quick look over my shoulder to make sure Whitlock had his net ready. I wasn’t sure how much longer I could fight before the fish won. This was, after all, his territory. Soon, he gave up, and I reeled him in for the finish.

“Wow, look at that,” our neighbor yelled out. I had a crowd, it seemed.

I’d caught a gorgeous 20-inch rainbow trout. After a photo op, he slid through my hands and back into the water, per the catch-and-release rules.

My partner caught three more. I hooked another, but he got away.

Still, it was a perfect moment. My feet, though dry, were numbed by cold. But it didn’t matter. I’d gotten all that I’d come for, and more.

I smiled at envious onlookers.

“The Davidson’s like a curse word,” one said. “I’ve never pulled a fish out of the Davidson.”

Neither had I. Until then.

IF YOU GO

FISHING GUIDES

Altamont Anglers. Half-day trip, 1 person, $175; 2 people, $225; 3 people, $275. 828-252-9266, 828-775-0714, www.altamontanglers.com.

Asheville Drifters. Half-day trip, 1 person, $175; 2 people, $200; 3 people, $225. 828-215-7379, www.altamontanglers.com

Brookside Guide. Half-day trip, 1 person, $175; 2 people, $190. 877-298-2568, 828-215-4234, www.brooksideguide.com

WHERE TO STAY

Four Points by Sheraton Downtown. 22 Woodfin St., Asheville, N.C. 828-253-1851, www.starwoodhotels.com

Asheville Homewood Suites by Hilton. 88 Tunnel Road, Asheville, N.C. 828-252-5400, www.ashevillehomewoodsuites.com

WHERE TO EAT

Tupelo Honey Café. Southern fusion cuisine made from local ingredients. Entrees $9-$23. 12 College St., Asheville, N.C. 828-255-4863, www.tupelohoneycafe

Modesto. A trattoria specializing in brick wood-fired oven pizza. Grove Arcade, 1 Page Ave., Asheville, N.C. 828-225-4133, www.modesto-asheville.com

INFORMATION

Buncombe County Tourism. Exploreasheville.com

Cheap flights powered by TripAdvisor.com

Kudzu Services » Find the right people for the job