FROM ATLANTA TO NORTH CAROLINA

Whitewater rafting on the Nantahala River full of thrills


The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Published on: 08/05/08

Bryson City, N.C. — It's often a fine line between high adventure and abject terror.

Guys like Robert Brody, Jimmy Lighthouser and Michael Weaver see that you don't cross it.

Nantahala Outdoor Center
AJC staff writer Clint Williams navigates Nantahala Falls, a Class III rapid at the end of a eight-mile river trip near Bryson City, NC.
 
Clint Williams / cwilliams@ajc.com
Instructor Robert Brody demonstrates the basics of paddling a kayak to students on the waters of Lake Fontanna near Bryson City.
 
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Paddling whitewater — even a river as mild as the Nantahala or the even tamer Tuckaseigee — is risky. Every raft trip orientation speech includes some variation of: "The river isn't Six Flags. There are no rails on this ride."

Stuff happens. The boat runs into rocks. The boat gets stuck on rocks. You fall out of the boat. The powerful current sometimes takes you places you don't want to go. You can get trapped underwater.

But dropping through a loud, frothy, chaotic rapid like Nantahala Falls is an unabashed rush. Especially if you guide yourself through the frenzy. A sense of accomplishment amps the buzz.

So that is where the Nantahala Outdoor Center and guys like Brody, Lighthouser and Weaver come in. The NOC, one of the most highly-regarded outfitters and paddling schools in the country, offers Family Adventure Getaways — packages that include lodging, some meals and two days on the water with guides and instructors who do all they can to make sure you end the trip grinning, not screaming.

The Nantahala River is a swell introduction to whitewater. While there are only a handful of genuine rapids, there are frequent stretches of standing waves. The wave trains, as they're called, demand no skill to navigate — in fact they're more fun if the boat is going downstream sideways — but they are bouncy, splashy fun.

Another thing that makes the Nantahala so good for beginners is that the biggest, most challenging rapid — Nantahala Falls — comes at the end of your eight-mile run when are you comfortable and confident after two hours or so of practice.

Most of the thousands who run the Nantahala ride in a raft. And that is a fun way to go. But it's more fun to ride a duck.

A duck, or duckie, is an inflatable kayak with room for just one or two people instead of the six or eight in a raft. You sit much lower, so you're closer to the action. You also get wet more often and stay wet longer.

And the river water is very cold.

That's why taking a guided trip your first time down is worth the money before you even launch.

Guide Michael Weaver prodded everyone to don wet suits.

"Now, you don't have to wear one, but I'm wearing one," he said.

When one or two passed, he gently pressed on. Thank goodness he was persistent.

The water is just over 50 degrees. Wear a wet suit. It's the difference between joy and misery.

You're almost certain to spy kayakers playing in the waves as you make your way down the Nantahala. "That looks fun," you'll say to yourself. It is and you can try it the next day.

The Whitewater Kayak Sampler, a day-long introduction to the sport, is one of the activities available in the family adventure packages.

"The program is designed to get everyone's head wet," said instructor Robert Brody.

The morning begins on Lake Fontana, where rookies get acquainted with the feel of their boats on still water. A key lesson is how to get out of your boat.

Kayaks feel a bit tipsy and even expert paddlers will tip over now and then. Sitting in a kayak can also feel a bit claustrophobic for some people — your legs are wedged beneath the deck of the boat. It's easy to panic when you suddenly have your head under water and can't pop to the surface because you're stuck in a plastic boat. So instructors spend a lot of time getting people comfortable with a so-called "wet exit." And if you have any experience or aptitude at all, they'll also coach you on how to do a roll in which you pop back upright without getting out of your kayak.

The lessons vary — NOC instructors adapt to the personality of the student.

"There are those who will jump into a pool holding their nose and there are people who will just jump right in," said instructor Jimmy Lighthouser. "As instructors, that is one of the invisible thresholds you're feeling for."

After lunch, the group launches on the Tuckaseigee River, which runs through downtown Bryson City. The scenery is less than spectacular — a retaining wall made of junked cars, the back of a Big Lots — but it's a pleasant run with a few riffles and a couple of very mild rapids.

Most people make a wet exit at some point. Everyone ends the day smiling. No one has crossed that line between adventure and terror.

IF YOU GO

Getting there

The Nantahala Outdoor Center is on U.S. 19 just west of Bryson City, about a three-hour drive from Atlanta

Where to stay

Two nights lodging at the Nantahala Inn is included in the Family Adventure Package ($191-$268 per person, depending on the activities you choose). The rooms are basic, but have satellite television. The inn is just 1.5 miles from the NOC and the hub of all activities.

Where to eat

Breakfast at River's End restaurant, which overlooks the take-out spot on the Nantahala River, is included in the package. Also part of the deal: lunch at Slow Joe's Cafe, a fast-food spot with a complex of shaded decks next to the river. For dinner, the best spot in the area is Relia's Garden, where you can stroll through the garden that provided much of supper. River's End also serves dinner.

Information

Nantahala Outdoor Center, 1-800-232-7238; www.noc.com

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