SPECIAL SECTION: SOUTHEASTERN INNS

Southeastern Inns: Rooms with a view


The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Published on: 04/07/05

Feel like the concrete jungle is closing in on you? Tired of looking out at your own landscaping-challenged back yard? Fed up with the daily commute? Sick to death of the same old, same old?

Everybody needs a change of scenery now and then.

Inn at Iris Meadows
The original mansion that houses the Inn at Iris Meadows was built circa 1905.
 
Overlook Inn
A cozy fire warms up one of the five guest rooms at the Overlook Inn.
 
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More Southeastern Inns

Inspiring vistas and tranquil surroundings were just what I was looking for as I planned a visit to three Southeastern inns.

The Lodge at Buckberry Creek in Gatlinburg, Tenn., promised "the ideal hideaway from the pace and pressure of the outside world."

That would work.

Inn at Iris Meadows in Waynesville, N.C., claimed to be "the perfect mountain destination for romantic getaways, honeymoons, celebrations and relaxing escapes."

Relaxing is good.

The Overlook Inn atop Fort Mountain near Chatsworth touted "seclusion, expansive and commanding views, gratifying indulgence."

Bring it on.

With reservations secured, we set out on a trip to find out if these mountain inns measured up to their hype.

The Lodge at Buckberry Creek

Gatlinburg, Tenn.

The setting: High above touristy Gatlinburg, with awesome views of Mount LeConte. The clear waters of Buckberry Creek tumble over rocks through the property, which lies on the boundary of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

The look: Adirondack "great camp" meets Smokies wilderness lodge. Craftsmen and local artisans used materials such as unpeeled logs, birch bark and naturally shed antlers from upstate New York, North Carolina and Tennessee to achieve the rustic elegance.

The specifics: None of the 46 suites are decorated the same, but all feature native stone fireplaces, handcrafted timber furniture, antiques, kitchens, soaking tubs and private balconies with rocking chairs. The main lodge houses the reception desk, a great room with massive stone fireplace, conference room, gift shop and dining room.

What's for breakfast: Scrambled eggs with snipped chives and white truffle oil, and omelets are served with skillet-roasted Yukon Gold potatoes. Cades Cove french toast features hand-sliced bread dipped in a vanilla bean crème brûlée batter served with apple butter and warm maple syrup, and a choice of applewood-smoked bacon or country ham. Plus, fresh fruits and pastries.

History: The lodge was built by brothers Buddy and James McLean on 26 of the original 90 acres owned by their family since 1945. The retreat opened in January.

Diversions: Fly-fishing in the creek, exploring nature trails, kicking back at the creek-side pavilion (which has a large fireplace and TV) and getting a fireside massage at the cozy spa. Need a lift? Hitch a ride in one of two Humvee-like Pinzgauers, reconditioned Swiss army troop transport vehicles.

That something extra: Homemade cookies at turndown. Yum.

• Getting there: Take I-85 north from downtown Atlanta to I-985 and continue north on Ga. 365 to U.S. 441. Continue through Great Smoky Mountains National Park. When you reach Gatlinburg, Tenn., turn left at traffic light at Ski Mountain Road. Turn right on Wiley Oakley Road, then right on Campbell Lead Road.

• Rates: Lodge suites, $175-$265; Gallery suites, $205-$400; Grand suites, $250-$430.

• The food: Gatlinburg is filled with restaurants specializing in everything from pancakes to steaks, but there's no need to leave the resort. Chef Toby Willis prepares what he calls refined mountain cuisine and regional comfort food. Try braised Niman Ranch veal cheeks ($12) and fried green tomatoes with goat cheese ($10) for starters and, for entrees, jumbo scallops and roasted corn risotto with asparagus, Asiago and white truffle vinaigrette ($25) and grilled beef tenderloin with Clemson blue cheese-rosemary butter and smoked bacon demi-glace ($36). Then finish with blueberry-ginger crème brûlée ($6).

• Fun fact: After spending time in upstate New York and enjoying the classic "great camp" style, the McLean family — which has owned the land the lodge is on for three generations — decided to bring Adirondack rustic elegance to the Smokies. The style is characterized by use of natural materials and a harmonious relationship with nature.

• Information: 1-866-305-6343, http://www.buckberrylodge.com.


Inn at Iris Meadows

Waynesville, N.C.

The setting: Five rolling acres of stately old trees and meadows overlooking the town of Waynesville, surrounded by the Great Smoky Mountains of western North Carolina. Spring brings dogwoods, azaleas, rhododendron and mountain laurel, wildflowers and irises galore.

The look: A lush garden estate with white picket fences and old stone walls. Elegant interiors with floral fabrics, gleaming chandeliers and fresh flowers. Verandas that invite indolence on crisp spring days. Irises show up in paintings, on candleholders and in other artwork throughout the house.

The specifics: Each of the seven rooms has a different decor, with distinct color schemes and baths designed for relaxation. Our room — the Garden View — had a huge Jacuzzi as well as a steam shower and fireplace. Beautifully restored hardwood floors throughout. Guests can lounge in the living room and library. Pets are welcome in the Firefly Summers Room.

What's for breakfast: The menu varies, but we were served hot-from-the-oven banana nut bread, mixed fruit compote, quiche with bacon and spinach, and apple-cranberry crisp with walnuts and a dollop of freshly whipped cream.

History: The meticulously restored mansion was built between 1905 and 1907. It opened as an inn in October.

Diversions: Wander through the gardens or walk downtown to visit the many shops, galleries and restaurants. Be sure to pop in Town Square Gallery to see innkeeper Becky Fain's stained glass and nature photography.

That something extra: Personable innkeepers Becky and George Fain — North Carolina natives recently retired from careers in human services, education and newspaper publishing — are delightful hosts who know when to sit down and chat. And when to leave you alone.

• Getting there: Take I-85 north from downtown Atlanta to I-985 and continue north on Ga. 365 to U.S. 441. Continue through Clayton to Dillsboro, N.C. Pick up U.S. 23/74 toward Waynesville. Take Exit 102 and turn right on U.S. 276 (Russ Avenue), then go right on Dellwood Road. Continue on Dellwood to Love Lane and turn right. Follow Love Lane as it curves to the right and up the hill to 304 Love Lane on the right.

• Rates: $225-$300.

• Dining: Downtown Waynesville has several excellent restaurants, including Lomo Grill, Chef's Table and Wildfire. For a more casual meal, try Nick & Nates for gourmet pizza and craft beer or O'Malley's on Main, an Irish pub.

• Fun fact: Innkeeper Becky Fain has organized the Iris Meadows Garden Club, whose members are all the folks who've donated irises and other plants for the gardens. Fain is labeling and cataloging the 70-plus varieties of irises that have been planted so she can track them through the blooming season. The Fains hope to hybridize their own variety over the next several years.

• Information: 1-888-466-4747, http://www.irismeadows.com.


Overlook Inn

Near Chatsworth

The setting: The inn's location atop Fort Mountain in the Cohutta Wilderness affords panoramic vistas of the Chattahoochee National Forest and Blue Ridge Mountains. Despite being on Ga. 52, which links Chatsworth and Ellijay, the lodge seems surprisingly secluded. Wildflowers and native plant gardens provide bursts of color.

The look: The inn's rustic weathered wood exterior belies the casual elegance inside. The Council Room, with its sturdy tree-trunk support beams, massive stacked stone fireplace, hardwood floors, deer antler chandelier and floor-to-ceiling windows, brings the outside in.

The specifics: Each of the five rooms has its own character, but all are decorated in earthy tones. Our room, the Moon Eye — the name Cherokees gave a light-skinned race of people who could see in the dark — had a hot tub on the back porch and a free-standing fireplace. No phones or TVs.

What's for breakfast: We feasted on coffeecake, fresh fruit, granola, banana walnut pancakes with brandy cider sauce and bacon.

History: The original part of the inn was a small rock museum to which the owner added living quarters. Owners Robert and Liz Coleman expanded the structure, adding guest rooms and the gathering room before opening the inn in the fall of 2002.

Diversions: With a pair of binoculars for bird-watching, sink into one of the oversize leather chairs in front of the Council Room's windows, and you may never leave. But if you want to explore, drive to nearby Fort Mountain State Park to see the 855-foot-long rock wall that may have been built by Native Americans around 500 B.C. — but no one knows for sure.

That something extra: Amiable innkeeper Alma Wynn is the host for a wine and cheese reception each afternoon.

• Getting there: Take I-75 north from downtown Atlanta to I-575 north. Continue on I-575 until it turns into Ga. 5/515 and continue to Ellijay. Turn left at the second Ellijay light (Hardee's is on the left-hand corner) and continue straight about 100 feet until the road dead-ends at a stoplight. Turn left at the light onto Ga. 52 west and follow the highway through the Ellijay town square. Continue on Ga. 52 west for about 17 miles. When you see the sign for Wilderness View Cabins on your right, continue driving another 1.2 miles to reach the office inside the red cabin (Coyote Redd's, a gift shop and reception desk for both the inn and cabins).

• Rates: $159-$209 off-peak; $189-$249 peak (one-night stay and during October, November, Thanksgiving, Christmas and some other holidays). Wildflower Weekend packages starting at $439 per couple will be offered May 20-22. The package includes two nights' accommodations at the inn, wine and cheese reception, breakfast each morning, a picnic lunch, slide presentation and walking tour with gardening and native plant authority Paula Refi.

• Dining: The Cohutta Lodge and Restaurant is nearby, but once you get settled at the inn, you may not want to leave. You don't have to: Just put in an order for a Fireside Picnic for two for dinner. A basket delivered to your room is stocked with softened brie cheese, crackers, three-spice hummus, seasonal fresh fruit, freshly baked croissants with butter, lemon-herb boneless chicken breast or smoked trout (or one of each), bottled spring water and a dessert. The cost is $39. A backpack lunch for two is $30.

• Fun fact: Among the woodland residents is a pair of red pileated woodpeckers that frolic outside the Council Room's large windows. The inn supplies binoculars and birding guides for the use of guests.

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