One-tank trip: Tybee Island, Ga.

An hour into the weekly oyster roast at Marlin Monroe’s restaurant on Tybee Island, bartender T.J. Hilyer discovered gas leaking from a worn hose. He shut down the cooker just as 10 hungry newcomers crowded around a second shucking table.

“I’ve got to go buy a new hose,” he announced, shedding his cooking gloves. “Nooooooo,” a collective chorus responded. “Nooooooo.”

“Wait,” a would-be oyster-eater said. “I’ve got a hose at my house that you can use.”

Within 15 minutes, gas and tranquillity were restored, oysters were steaming and people at both tables lifted a glass to their benefactor, one of the fewer than 4,000 residents who live year-round on this 21-square-mile island off the Georgia coast.

“That’s Tybee for you,” said Susan Kelleher, a partner in Seaside Sisters coastal shop, on hearing the story. “Good people live here.”

Good people do live here, the kind of people who know how to make you feel more like an islander than a visitor. We met dozens of them on a recent visit, locals who give their island its laid-back, “who-cares-if-you’re-a-millionaire-or-a-beach-bum?” ambience. That welcoming attitude keeps visitors coming back, as we intend to do.

Don’t miss

• Three miles of beach. This is the reason you’re here, and Tybee just renourished its biggest tourist attraction with 1.2 million cubic yards of sand. In late fall, winter and early spring, the beaches invite a quiet stroll. In summer, there’ll be plenty of room to spread a beach towel and cool off in the ocean. Lots of people drop a fishing line off the pier, and most everyone visits the Pavilion for ice cream or a snack. From late spring to early fall, take a boat ride with Captain Mike’s Dolphin Tours (1-800-242-0166, tybeedolphins.com; $15 adults, $8 children age 12 and under) to see bottlenose dolphins at play. Or opt for a guided kayak tour through North Island Surf & Kayak (912-786-4000, www.northislandkayak.com ) or Sea Kayak Georgia (1-888-529-2542; www.seakayakgeorgia.com ) to see dolphins, birds and other coastal wildlife and vegetation.

• Fort Pulaski National Monument. When this fort was constructed in 1833, it was thought to be impregnable. During the Civil War, it met its match when Union forces used newly developed rifled cannons to batter and breach the 8-foot solid-brick walls in a 30-hour siege in April 1862. The Confederate troops inside were forced to surrender, and masonry forts faded into history. The monument will host two days of events April 11-12 marking the 147th anniversary of the Battle of Fort Pulaski. The site also is noted for enforcing an order that helped slaves become freed men; many of the former slaves went on to serve in combat later in the war. A small museum tells the fort’s history, and visitors can hike trails and picnic on the grounds. On U.S. 80, about midway between Savannah and Tybee. 912-786-5787; www.nps.gov/fopu

• The Tybee Island Museum and Light Station. Climb the 178 steps to the top for a view of the beach and tour the restored head light keeper’s house, furnished much as it was when the last light keeper, George Jackson, lived there with his family in the 1930s and ’40s. Take time to read some of the correspondence of families living in virtual isolation in the 1800s, when going to Savannah for supplies was an expedition. The lighthouse, finished in 1867, is the fourth on the island; the first two (built in 1736 and 1742) were too near the ocean, and the third (built in 1773) is the foundation for the 1867 lighthouse. Open 9 a.m.-5:30

p.m. daily except Tuesdays, (closed St. Patrick’s Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day). Admission $6 adults, $5 seniors age 62 and older and children 6-17, $5 for groups of 10 or more and military. 30 Meddin Ave. 912-786-5801; www.tybeelighthouse.org

• Shop for a unique souvenir. Visitors who want something more than T-shirt and beachwear shops will find it on Tybee. Seaside Sisters, Coastal Cottage Style (1207 U.S. 80, in Sundance Square, 912-786-9216, www.seasidesisterstybee.com) has an eclectic mix of items, from jewelry and fish-shaped water pitchers that gurgle to crystal chandeliers. Fans of “Savannah Breeze” and “Savannah Blues,” books written by Mary Kay Andrews (aka Kathy Hogan Trochek of Atlanta), will want to browse her garage sale treasures in her section of Seaside Sisters. For a wide selection of art by locals, visit Irene Sullivan Gallery, 18-C Tybrisa St., (912-786-8786, www.irenesullivangallery.com ); some of the watercolors, oils and acrylics are exceptional, and all are originals.

IF YOU GO

Getting there

Tybee Island is about 265 miles from Atlanta, a 4 1/2-hour drive.

Where to stay

• Mermaid Cottages on Tybee. A collection of about 35 cottage-style houses, many pet-friendly and some in restored historic homes. $125-$250 a night. 912-786-5918; www.mermaidcottages.com.

• DeSoto Beach Hotel. Beachside hotel was renovated in 2008. Rates start at $100 a night. 212 Butler Ave., 1-877-786-4542, www.desotobeachhotel.com.

• Beachside Colony. Condo rentals starting at $170 a night. 404 Butler Ave., 912-786-4535, www.beachsidecolony.com.

Where to eat

• AJ’s Dockside. Fresh seafood, a wide selection of beer and a mellow guitarist singing selections from Jimmy Buffett to Charlie Daniels. The conch fritters are excellent. Entrees $14.95-$29.95. 1315 Chatham Ave. 912-786-9533, www.ajsdocksidetybee.com.

• The Breakfast Club. Try a made-to-order omelet or a breakfast with fresh fish, such as shrimp sautéed with olive oil and garlic on grits, with two eggs any style and toast. Entrees $3.75-$9. 1500 Butler Ave. 912-786-5984, www.tybeeisland.com/dining/brclub/Default.htm.

• MacElwee’s Seafood House. Try beer-battered shrimp, raw and steamed oysters or hand-cut steaks, or opt for the owner’s favorite (and mine): lightly blackened tilapia over angel hair pasta in white-wine butter sauce, served with broccoli florets, snow peas and red peppers. Entrees $8.95-$27.99. 101 Lovell Ave. 912-786-8888, www.macelweesontybee.com.

• Marlin Monroe’s Surfside Grill. Join locals on Sunday afternoons in the winter for an all-you-can-eat oyster roast, $10 per person. In summer, dine on the deck right on the beach. Entrees $8-$22. 404 Butler Ave. 912-786-4745, www.marlinmonroessurfsidegrill.com.

Information

• Tybee Island Visitors Information Center. 801 First St. 912-786-5444, www.tybeevisit.com

• Savannah Convention & Visitors Bureau. 101 E. Bay St., Savannah. 912-644-6401, www.savcvb.com