Naples, Fla. — Travelers to this west coast Florida city are a discerning lot. They prefer upscale hotels with fitness centers, concierge and spa services, high-thread-count sheets and plenty of plump pillows. It's not surprising the town has two Ritz-Carltons and several tony boutique hotels.

Bellasera, a condominium resort with a romantic courtyard and a heated outdoor pool, fits in perfectly. Its grand lobby looks like something you'd see in an Italian palace, and its restaurant, Zizi, serves Tuscan-inspired dishes to make sure guests are living "la dolce vita" (the sweet life) at least while they're on the hotel grounds.

Bellasera Hotel (ENLARGE)

The lobby of the Bellasera Hotel in Naples, Fla., invites guests to sit and visit.

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Unlike the Ritzes, Bellasera's downtown location puts it within easy walking distance of Fifth Avenue South galleries, shops and restaurants. The beach is a long walk or a short ride away, but Bellasera's heated pool and spa and luxury cabanas, make you think twice about leaving the premises for sunning and swimming.

My husband and I had Bellasera on our to-do list for a year before we finally booked a studio suite (the smallest room you can get, though plenty spacious, with a huge bathroom, comfy king bed, desk and patio overlooking the pool). We could open the plantation shutters separating the bathroom from the bedroom and watch TV while taking a bubble bath in the whirlpool tub.

With its marble vanities, chenille robes, Aveda bath products and a refrigerator, our room didn't disappoint. Suites even have doorbells, a nice feature for those who stay at Bellasera for weeks at a time, like some of the artists whose works are shown at Naples' many galleries.

We were in town to do some gallery-hopping ourselves and liked the hotel's close proximity to the shops on Fifth Avenue and Third Street South. We met friends for a late lunch and hadn't worked up much of an appetite for dinner. Still, we wanted to get a bite and check out Zizi on the first floor.

After we explained to the hostess that we wanted to order off the lunch menu, she showed us to a cozy booth overlooking the pool and brought us lunch menus, even though it was dinnertime.

An efficient waiter took our orders and delivered a yummy raspberry chicken salad with candied pecans, apples and field greens and a turkey wrap with tomatoes, olives and onions on a spinach tortilla.

We returned to Zizi for breakfast the next morning and found equally top-rate food and service.

Less impressive were the folks at the front desk. The fellow who checked us in never cracked a smile, and the woman who checked us out was distracted by another guest who came asking for directions. I left without a farewell of any sort or a "hope you'll visit us again."

Truth is, we may return. Bellasera (which means "beautiful evening" in Italian) is a stunning hotel. But we're part of that discerning lot, and we expect first-rate treatment all around. We're giving the front-desk staff the benefit of the doubt.

IF YOU GO

Getting there

Driving: Naples is about 615 miles from downtown Atlanta, about a nine-hour drive.

Flying: Expect to pay about $600 round trip from Atlanta to Naples, or pay about $300 round trip to Sarasota and drive two hours to Naples.

About the hotel

The Bellasera Hotel features 100 studio and one-, two- and three-bedroom suites. Rates start at $169 or more, depending on season. 221 Ninth St. S., Naples.1-888-627-1595, www.bellaseranaples.com.

Where to eat

• McCabe's Irish Pub and Grill. Entrees from $10.50 to $27.95. 699 Fifth Ave. S. 239-403-7170, www.mccabesirishpub.com.

• Zizi's, in the Bellasera Hotel. www.bellaseranaples.com/bellasera-zizi-restaurant.htm.

Information

Naples Marco Island Everglades Convention Visitors Bureau, 3050 Horseshoe Drive N. 239-403-2384, www.paradisecoast.com.

Thurwachter is a staff writer for The Palm Beach (Fla.) Post.