Hollywood, Fla. — Founder Joseph Wesley Young called this his "dream city," a place to welcome everyone "from the opulent at the top of the industrial and social ladder to the most humble of working people."

Today, more than 75 years later, that vision is at the heart of a continuing debate, involving everyone from city officials to motel owners. Should Hollywood succumb to the pressures of gentrification that have transformed much of the South Florida coast, from South Beach to Palm Beach, into a winter playground for the well to do? Or should it remain what it largely is — the last semi-affordable beach town on this gilded stretch of shoreline?

Already, tens of millions of public dollars have gone into improvements in the beach and downtown, Hollywood's two main hubs. While beautification is rarely seen as a negative, some community activists are concerned about high-end private development — condos and more condos — that is falling into place with the improvements. (Donald Trump plans a high-rise condo project.)

In Hollywood, between the winter meccas of Fort Lauderdale and Miami Beach, you won't find a new St. Regis Resort (that's in Fort Lauderdale) or an Andre Balazs' trendy boutique hotel (that's in Miami). But you will find a city with charms both raffish (a seedy oceanfront bar) and homespun (a miniature golf course, where $7 gets you unlimited play).

The best place to see Hollywood's two faces, the old and affordable and the new and upscale, is the renovated oceanfront Broadwalk. The brick paving suggests a fashionable promenade. But the scene is reminiscent of Brighton Beach in Brooklyn, N.Y., which is to say the vibe is that of an ethnic enclave.

Mom-and-pop motels — some well past their prime — predominate, but for something splashier, consider the 229-room Hollywood Beach Marriott (2501 N. Ocean Drive; 954-924-2202, www.marriott.com ), built two years ago for $30 million. Rates start at $289 a night.

While Brighton Beach is Russian, Hollywood is a little of everything: French-Canadian, Latin-American, Eastern European and plain old American touristy. You can tell as much from the reasonably priced waterfront restaurants — you can pay as little as $20 for two — that serve everything from pizza and burgers to Mediterranean fare to poutine, a French-Canadian specialty of fries topped with cheese curds and gravy. My favorite place is the Hollywood Grill (905 N. Broadwalk; 954-272-2525, www.hollywood-grill.net ), which specializes in Armenian cuisine. Figure about $75 for a hearty meal for two.

Away from the beach, try the by-the-bay, open-air Le Tub (1100 N. Ocean Drive; 954-921-9425, www.theletub.com ). The shabby-chic cash-only bar/restaurant gained national fame a few years back when GQ magazine pronounced its burger ($11 without cheese) the best in the country.

Besides the beach, you can also do a fair bit of meandering through the downtown. The Arts Park in Young Circle, with a high-concept fountain designed by Japanese artist Ritsuko Taho, makes for an inviting public space.

But outside the circle, the scene is not as rosy. Part of the appeal of downtown is its unwillingness to gentrify. Again, ethnic dining dominates along with shops both funky and family-friendly.

As for night life, there are clubs, bars and juke joints in downtown and the beach areas. But the real scene shifts west to the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino (1 Seminole Way; 1-866-502-7529, www.seminolehardrockhollywood.com ), an 86-acre, $275 million party palace that opened in 2004.

A good chunk of the scene is outside the casino, particularly in Seminole Paradise, a night-life district with 13 clubs, restaurants, stores and a 5,500-seat concert hall. You may even run into a rock star or two. I've seen Steven Van Zandt (of Bruce Springsteen and "Sopranos" fame) and Steven Tyler of Aerosmith. Apparently, even in this other Hollywood, the glitterati have found a home.

IF YOU GO

Getting there

Driving: Hollywood is about 650 miles from downtown Atlanta, about a 10-hour drive.

Flying: Expect to pay $160-$180 or more round trip from Atlanta to Fort Lauderdale or Miami.

Information

Hollywood Office of Tourism: 1-877-672-2468, www.visithollywood.org .