Cincinnati, the ‘Queen City,’ is worthy of nickname

Cincinnati — If any city suffers from image problems, it’s Cincinnati.

The last decades have tainted the “Queen City” with racial unrest (following the 2001 police shooting of an unarmed black man) and a reputation for intolerance (following the unsuccessful prosecution of the Contemporary Arts Center and director Dennis Barrie on charges of “pandering obscenity” for a 1990 Robert Mapplethorpe exhibit).

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The slave pen, a permanent display at the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center in Cincinnati, is an actual building used by a 19th-century Kentucky slave trader.

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But the last few years have seen a cultural revival in Cincinnati, which sits regally at the southwestern end of Ohio on the Ohio River. A visitor will find world-class museums, a vibrant night life and dining scene, and a rich look at the state’s history.

Cincinnati boasts a mild climate, leisurely Southern pace, strong German heritage, hilly geography and a lovely river location.

THE SIGHTS

Even if you’ve never been to Cincinnati, Fountain Square may look familiar — and send the theme to “WKRP in Cincinnati” looping through your head. But there’s nothing dated about the heart of the city.

The area around the lovely 1871 fountain was renovated in 2005 into a cultural hub surrounded by shops and restaurants that hosts concerts, markets, festivals and other public events. On my July trip, hundreds of people thronged into a T-shirt market and local rock concert on a blistering Friday afternoon.

From Fountain Square, several other downtown destinations are within walking distance. Must-sees include two of Ohio’s newest museums: the stunning Rosenthal Center for Contemporary Art, designed by renowned London-based “deconstructivist” architect Zaha Hadid, and the sober National Underground Railroad Freedom Center.

The New York Times called The Rosenthal Center, opened in 2003, “the most important American building to be completed since the end of the Cold War”.

High praise, but deserving for the six-story cubist dream of concrete and black aluminum placed precisely into a busy urban corner.

Go for the building, but stay for the exhibits. This fall they include Mexican artist Carlos Amorales’ solo show of animated films, sculpture, performances and drawings.

Children of all ages will be entranced by the hands-on “unmuseum” on the sixth floor, an amazing venue with everything from a bicycle-powered city to a giant color box that children can light by playing musical notes to an ingenious slanted room.

For fans of contemporary architecture, this is just the first of several must-sees.

Next, head to the University of Cincinnati, just north of downtown, for a look at several buildings by leading world architects on the forward-thinking campus, including Frank Gehry’s Vontz Center for Molecular Studies and the Aronoff Center for Design and Art designed by Peter Eisenman.

Opened just steps from the Ohio River in 2004, the austere National Underground Railroad Freedom Center stands where many escaping slaves first breathed in freedom. It’s a moving reminder of America’s past, and of those who took steps to change it.

Visitors begin with a somber look at an actual, reassembled slave pen. Other exhibits touch on all facets of the quest for freedom.

Most striking is a series of washboards decorated in primitive folk-art style focusing on different aspects of slavery.

But for all of its historical focus, the center is not living in the past. Exhibits seek to expand the definition of slavery and freedom by looking at contemporary issues such as racism and illiteracy.

It makes for a poignant and inspiring experience.

While you’re there, make sure to look left and right as you leave the center for glimpses of two more top Cincinnati destinations, the Reds’ Great American Ball Park, opened in 2003, and the Bengals’ Paul Brown Stadium, completed in 2000.

THE EATS

There’s more to Cincinnati food than chili — though there’s plenty of that, too. (More on this later.)

Ever heard of goetta? Probably not, unless you’re of German extraction with roots in the southern Ohio/northern Kentucky area. A mixture of ground beef and oats, this “poverty” dish once made to stretch meat servings is little known outside the Cincinnati area. But despite its peasant origins, goetta has become downright chic. In addition to homey diners such as the Colonial Cottage in Erlanger, Ky., visitors will now find “Cincinnati caviar” on the menus at trendy eateries including Mokka, where I sampled the dish, across the river in Newport, Ky.

Having only heard tepid reviews from my mother, whose German grandmother served goetta more often than she liked, I was pleasantly surprised. Mokka, a sleek breakfast-lunch joint inside a gorgeously restored Art Deco nightclub, serves its goetta in wisp-thin slices, with a crisp, sausagelike consistency and taste. I tried mine nouveau-style on a grilled cheese sandwich, but they’ve also got goetta straight up. Even more tempting was the creme brulee-, cornflake- and banana-topped French toast. Divinely decadent.

Also quite decadent is another Cincinnati mainstay: Graeter’s ice cream. It seems there’s a parlor on every other street corner. In business since 1870, Graeter’s is known for its rich, creamy ice cream, made two gallons at a time in its “French Pot Process.” Try the signature Black Raspberry Chip and you’ll be looking for the next Graeter’s before you’ve finished licking. No wonder Oprah Winfrey told the world, “You haven’t had ice cream till you’ve had Graeter’s.”

No trip to Zinzinnati would be complete without a German meal. You’ll find several Deutsch establishments, but none quite like the Hofbrauhaus Newport. Opened in 2003, this 750-seat restaurant is styled like a massive Munich beer hall with a lovely Biergarten. It serves a lengthy menu of schnitzels, pretzels and sauerkraut dishes. And the beer list, supervised by Munich’s Staatliches Hofbrauhaus, is an impressive collection of light and dark lagers, wheat beers, bocks, pilseners and more.

There’s also nightly musical entertainment that often ends with the whole joint dancing on the tables, or at least the benches. A polka version of “Sweet Caroline” brought down the Haus the night I was there.

The Hofbruhaus serves beer in liter-sized steins. Once you have drunk one of those, you may be ready to try the chili.

Featured at numerous chains, Cincinnati chili is not too spicy, usually beanless and served over spaghetti or as sauce on small “Coney” hot dogs, topped with a mountain of shredded cheddar. Nothing special, but it satisfies the late-night munchies.

For a little more upscale night out — with some of the best scenic river views in town — head up to Mount Adams. Topped by the imposing Monastery, this 200-year-old neighborhood is home to some of the city’s most interesting bars and restaurants. As you stroll the charming winding streets twinkling with Christmas lights and vintage street lamps, you’ll find Thai, Italian and American foods, and bars that range from Parrothead hideouts to chic cafes like the Monastery Wine Bar.

For a much more upscale — and tastier — local experience, make a stop at one of famed chef Jeff Ruby’s steakhouses. I tried the sports-themed Precinct, located in a glossily restored vintage police precinct house.

Dubbed “one of America’s 25 best restaurants” by Playboy, the Precinct has prices to match its praise. But with steaks so tender, succulent and innovatively flavored they can convert even a usual-vegetarian like me, the splurge is worth it. Everything has a Cinci-sports name. I cut into the Dusty Baker, spicy blackened tournedos topped with Creole sauce and shrimp. The Brandon Phillips — a large, center-cut filet mignon that topped the menu at $42.95 — also looked tasty, but this Tribe fan couldn’t quite bring herself to order something named after the former Indian.

AFTER DARK

Much of the action in the Cincinnati area is actually in northern Kentucky (where, by the way, smoking is still allowed in bars), mostly in Newport, where the Hofbrahaus is located.

Once something of a den of iniquity where Ohioans went for cheap liquor and all kinds of good times, the city directly across the Ohio has been scrubbed clean.

Just a few blocks from Hofbrahaus stands Southgate House, the concert club for indie, alternative and alt-rock shows. Even more interesting than the schedule, though, is the locale: Southgate House is in a restored 1814 mansion, built by British prisoners of the War of 1812. When’s the last time you saw one of those with a PBR sign glowing in the window?

Across the street from Southgate House stands one of Newport’s biggest draws, Newport on the Levee, an enormous “riverfront town square,” er, indoor mall with more than 10 restaurants and nightclubs including such chain favorites as Brio and Funny Bone Comedy Club, many with riverfront dining. The Levee is also home to a 20-screen AMC Cinema, galleries, specialty stores and the impressive Newport Aquarium.

Back in Ohio, the fun is a little grittier in Northside, north of downtown near the University of Cincinnati, where you’ll find the Comet, known for its big beer list and even bigger San Francisco-style burritos. You’ll also find one of the hippest jukeboxes in town and live music from local and small national acts, including some pretty good bluegrass.

While in the neighborhood, music fans may want to pay a visit to the Northside Tavern. It’s a little dive-y, but the hipster bar is a great place to check out the local music scene.

For a little more upscale night out — with some of the best scenic river views in town — head up to Mount Adams. Topped by the imposing Monastery, this 200-year-old neighborhood is home to some of the city’s most interesting bars and restaurants. As you stroll the charming winding streets twinkling with Christmas lights and vintage street lamps, you’ll find Thai, Italian and American foods, and bars that range from Parrothead hideouts to chic cafes like the Monastery Wine Bar.

One of the most popular is the Mt. Adams Bar and Grill, a sleek wood eatery with American cuisine and an impressive drink selection.

There are also galleries and charming boutiques such as the Gilded Age jewelry and art shop.

But even better than the eats and buys are the views — ah, the views. Located high above downtown, Mount Adams provides spectacular scenes of the city and river.

These views include Eden Park, a lovely 186-acre area (named for the Garden of Eden) just below Mount Adams that is home to landmarks including the Cincinnati Art Museum, Cincinnati Playhouse in the Park and the Krohn Conservatory.

Sadly, I ran out of time before visiting these tourist destinations on my weekend in the Queen City. But I’ll be back.

IF YOU GO

What to see

Rosenthal Center for Contemporary Art: 44 E. Sixth St. Call 513-345-8400. www.contemporaryartscenter.org/

Underground Railroad Freedom Center: 50 E. Freedom Way. Call 513-333-7500 or 1-877-648-4838. www.freedomcenter.org/

Cincinnati Art Museum: 953 Eden Park Drive. Call 513-721-2787. www.cincinnatiartmuseum.org/

Food

Newport on the Levee: 1 Levee Way, Newport, Ky. Call 859-291-0550. www.newportonthelevee.com/

Mokka: 527 York St., Newport, Ky. Call 859-581-3700.

Hofbrahaus Newport: Third and Saratoga streets, Newport, Ky. For more information, call 859-491-7200. www.hofbrauhausnewport.com/

Southgate House: 24 E. Third St. Newport, Ky. Call 859-431-2201. www.southgatehouse.com/

Where to stay

There are numerous hotels downtown, including the elegant Cincinnatian Hotel, 601 Vine St. (513-381-3000), and the Hilton Cincinnati Netherland Plaza, 35 W. Fifth St. (513-421-9100).

More information

The Greater Cincinnati Convention and Visitors Bureau operates a Visitor Center at Fountain Square, at Fifth and Walnut streets. Call 1-800-246-2987. www.cincyusa.com/