Along the Oregon coast — Oregon? For vacation?" Friends were skeptical. "Doesn't it rain there all the time?"

It is fine weather for ducks part of the year, especially in the northwest region of the state. But if you go in early fall when skies are generally sunny and coastal temperatures hover in the high 60s and low 70s, Oregon is an ideal travel destination.

Betsy Crosby / Special (ENLARGE)

Sand dunes at Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area near Florence, Ore.

Betsy Crosby / Special (ENLARGE)

Peace and quiet are part of the entertainment at Tu Tu' Tun Lodge on the banks of the Rogue River.

Betsy Crosby / Special (ENLARGE)

Pacific City's Haystack Rock is a protected 'Oregon island.' Surfers and swimmers are the usual beach denizens, but University of Oregon freshman Jake Mason has bagpipes on his mind.

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Thanks to all that rain, the green and fertile Willamette Valley between Portland and Eugene may remind you of Ireland. But head west toward the Pacific Ocean and you encounter America at its grandest: Rushing rivers cutting through the fir-cloaked mountains of the Coast Range, towering sand dunes rivaling those in the Sahara Desert and wind-bitten boulders that seem to jut from the ocean floor.

It's enough to make you want to grab your Conestoga wagon and head for the Oregon Trail.

I confess that, but for the golf, my husband and I would never have thought of vacationing in Oregon. But we were meeting three other Atlanta couples at Bandon Dunes Golf Resort on the Pacific coast, a mecca for those who obsess about the game on a daily basis.

We decided to fly out early to visit a few vineyards in the Willamette Valley, mingle with the street scene in Portland and meander down the coastal highway before arriving in Bandon, toward the southern end of the state. We returned from our trip fans of Oregon, awed by the scenic drama around nearly every bend in the road.

Having heard that the northern coastal towns could be congested, we began our exploration in Tillamook, about a quarter of the way down the coast. Known for its thriving dairy industry, Tillamook is 77 miles from Portland via Ore. 6, an easy and pleasant trip along the Wilson River through the forested Coast Range.

We arrived midmorning and drove past idyllic cow pastures to the Blue Heron French Cheese Co. Inside, I savored a taste of Marionberry & Cream Tillamook Ice Cream. But it was just a little too early for dessert, even for me. Instead, we bought local brie cheese and bread and headed for Cape Lookout State Park on Three Capes Loop off U.S. 101, where we had a seaside picnic in the company of giant spruces, hemlocks and families flying kites.

U.S. 101, known in parts as the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway, extends 363 miles along Oregon's western edge. It moves inland here and there and chugs through a few towns, but also offers a number of short scenic "loops" with breathtaking views and photo ops.

Maximum enjoyment of the scenery requires a certain degree of physical fitness. We puffed our way up steep trails through wind-twisted shore pines, climbed narrow spiral stairs to the top of lighthouses and picked our way down slick steps to water-spouting sandstone formations. We even saw a few signs warning "Tsunami Hazard Zone," depicting huge waves and a little man making quick tracks in the opposite direction, and were glad we wore tennis shoes.

As we traveled down the coast, we kept meeting locals who had never ventured beyond the next town. As if lacking the restlessness that brought their ancestors west in the first place, some of the Oregonians we met seemed happy with the piece of paradise they call their own. Many take protection of their green landscape and "green" mind-set seriously, even to the point of driving (to our great annoyance) the exact fuel-conserving speed limit.

Whether or not Oregon residents venture far from home, they like outdoor adventures. Mountain bikers, kayakers, surfers, horseback riders, hang-gliders and dune buggy enthusiasts swarm along the rugged landscape, mingling with visitors from more landlocked states.

At the monolithic Haystack Rock in Pacific City, a protected "Oregon island" about 325 feet tall (the larger of two Haystack Rocks on the coast), we met Les Weeks, a self-described "surfer dude" originally from California, now living, to his vague embarrassment, in Montana with a wife and five kids. In Oregon on a business trip, he had brought his wet suit and a portable ocean kayak that he had folded into his Honda.

That first day on the coast, thanks to our leisurely picnic lunch, the wonderful photo ops and the dozens of recreational vehicle campers lumbering ahead of us, we covered only 50 miles in four hours. Our first night's goal was Newport, about 20 more miles down the road. We quickly streamlined our itinerary to focus on the sights we'd never see on the East Coast — the wildlife.

Below Depoe Bay we veered off U.S. 101 to Otter Crest Loop. There, while checking out the churning water in the rock formation known as the Devil's Punchbowl, we noticed a crowd peering into the distance. "There!" said the woman next to us. "He just spouted." According to the general consensus, there were three gray whales frolicking offshore. I confess to seeing only half a spout out of the corner of one eye and perhaps a flip of a tail, but I counted it as a sighting nonetheless.

We drove on, stopping only briefly to explore postcard-perfect Yaquina Head Lighthouse. I was in a rush to reach the highly recommended Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport before it closed at 5 p.m. The aquarium's naturalistic setting was impressive, but we encountered a better show at sunset strolling through the town's Historic Bayfront. There we discovered a slew of California sea lions, affectionately known as the Bachelors Club, loitering on a pier in Yaquina Bay and barking like a bunch of drunken frat boys.

Their chorus inadvertently led us to our favorite restaurant of the trip, Local Ocean Seafoods, in an urban chic garagelike setting at the end of Bay Boulevard. We sat at the counter overlooking the kitchen area, and were treated by the chef to tastings of some of his specialties, such as fisherman's wife stew, coconut prawns and whole fried rockfish.

We left Newport in the chilly morning fog and were among the first visitors to arrive 38 miles later at the highly touted Sea Lion Caves below Heceta Head. We were skeptical as we wandered through the gift shop among shelves brimming with souvenirs, but quickly changed our attitudes once the cliff-top elevator dropped us 200 feet to a vaulted cavern as large as a football field and as tall as a 12-story building. The cavern is home during the winter months to hundreds of massive sea lions.

Only one Steller sea lion was present (most bulls scatter to forage in the fall), and yet we were thrilled by the cathedral-like setting. Before leaving, we peered through a wind-carved rock opening to a ledge where dozens of gulls, cormorants and pigeon guillemots perched before the backdrop of Heceta Lighthouse — a scene as mesmerizing as a roaring fire.

By the time we got back to the car, my husband could smell golf in the air. His foot pressed a little heavier on the pedal as we flew past Florence, advertising its weekend Chowder, Blues and Brews festival; Reedsport, promoting the salmon dinner at Tsalila, its Native American Umpqua River Festival; and the truly incredible 40-mile-long Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, with fast-moving dune buggies crawling like fleas up and down the hills of sand at the southern end overlooking Coos Bay.

We arrived in the harbor town of Bandon, known for its cranberry fields as well as its links-style golf resort, in time for a late lunch. The two full days of sightseeing my husband had promised me had been compressed into one and a half.

After a couple of blustery (and punishing) days on the courses at Bandon Dunes, I was ready for more exploration. I left my husband and friends to play a final round, while I headed south toward the "fabulous 50 miles" between Port Orford and Brookings, where the cliffs are reputed to be the highest, and the ocean the bluest.

Before long, I realized I was once again too ambitious. Just past Port Orford and the celebrated roadside hump of Humbug Mountain, I veered inland toward Tu Tu' Tun Lodge, a luxury fly-fishing resort on the crystalline Rogue River. I had just enough time for a quick exploration before I needed to head back for our return to Eugene that afternoon.

As I drove north, I resolved that one day I would give the Oregon coast the full attention it deserved. I was overcome with old-fashioned American pride for the work that the "green" state had done to protect these natural sites. So when I heard singer-songwriter Adrienne Young on the car radio playing Woody Guthrie's "This Land Is Your Land," I was soon singing along.

IF YOU GO

Getting there

You can fly nonstop from Atlanta to Portland, Ore., on Delta Air Lines and Alaska Airlines for about $565.

We chose instead to fly to Salt Lake City, where we changed planes for Eugene, home of the University of Oregon. This pleasant college town, decked out in the Ducks team colors of turtle green and screaming yellow, is the southern gateway to the Willamette Valley wine region and is within an easy 1 1/2-hour drive to the coast to the west, two hours to Portland to the north and three hours to Crater Lake National Park to the southeast. Making Eugene your flight destination may cost you about $100 more in airfare, but it can save you on driving time and hotel rentals.

When to go

According to a Reedsport, Ore., store clerk, summer on the coast — or rather, sunny weather — doesn't arrive until "August, September and the first couple of weeks of October." After that, you can expect rain. "And once it starts," our clerk acknowledged ruefully, "it goes on for a while."

The Oregon Coast Visitors Bureau agrees with his assessment, adding that fog plays havoc on the coast from the end of June through early August. Coastal temperatures in early fall hover in the 60s and 70s, but inland temperatures can be much warmer. Come prepared for changeable weather. As one brochure advises, "There is no bad weather, just inadequate clothing." See www.coastvisitor.com , www.traveloregon.com , www.visittheoregoncoast.com .

Where to stay

• Ocean House Inn, a bed-and-breakfast with lovely coastal views in Newport, resides next to and is run by the same staff as another B&B, the Tyee Lodge. Seasonal rates range from $195 to $250, plus gourmet breakfast. 1-866-495-3888, www.oceanhouse.com .

• Luxury travelers head to the Salishan Spa and Golf Resort in Gleneden Beach, which offers golf, tennis, a pool and fitness center and full-service spa. Rates range from $170 to $250. 1-800-452-2300, www.salishan.com .

• Bandon Dunes Golf Resort offers superior golf, with accommodations designed for the male golfer. (We female golfers objected to the lack of adequate mirrors in the room.) High season rates (May-October) are $220-$360 for a double, but book early, as rooms and tee times fill up far in advance. 1-888-345-6008, www.bandondunesgolf.com .• Budget-minded travelers to the town of Bandon might enjoy the dramatic coastal views from either the Inn at Face Rock, a Best Western property (541-347-9441, www.innatfacerock.com ) or the privately owned Windermere on the Beach (541-347-3710, windermereby

thesea.com).

• A visit to the luxury fly-fishing resort at Tu Tu' Tun Lodge below Port Orford is well worth the detour. 1-800-864-6357, www.tututun.com .

Where to eat

• You'll find unsurpassed seafood and a lively atmosphere at Newport's local favorite, Local Ocean Seafoods, 213 S.E. Bay Blvd. 541-574-7959.

• While in Bandon, try the Wild Rose Bistro for sophisticated dining with organic ingredients and good Oregon wines, 130 Chicago St., Old Town. 541-347-4428.

• The Campbell House Inn at 252 Pearl St. in Eugene is celebrated for its fine dining as well as its romantic accommodations. 541-343-1119, www.campbellhouse.com .

• If you're traveling in late September, check out www.traveloregon.com for information about Florence's Chowder, Blues and Brews festival and Reedsport's Tsalila Umpqua River Festival and traditional salmon dinner. See www.tsalila.com .

Information

For the Eugene area, Convention and Visitors Association of Lane County, www.visitlanecounty.org .