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If you go to Belleville in Paris …
Look for these sites associated with singer Edith Piaf
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Note: To call from the U.S., dial 011-33-1 instead of 01.
EDITH PIAF MUSEUM: Free visits by appointment; phone 01-43-55-52-72.
Jacques Brinon / AP
Edith Piaf’s grave in Pere Lachaise Cemetery is the farthest that most tourists venture into Belleville, the neighborhood where she once lived.
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BELLEVILLE TOURS: Ca se visite! offers two-to-three hour tours by appointment; www.ca-se-visite.fr/ or 01-48-06-27-41.
CONCERT HALLS:
La Java, 105 rue du Faubourg du Temple; www.la-java.fr/. Piaf once sang here.
La Bellevilloise, 19-21 rue Boyer, www.labellevilloise.com/ or 01-46-36-07-07. Founded in 1877. Concerts, exhibitions, restaurant.
La Fleche d’Or, 102 bis rue de Bagnolet; www.flechedor.fr/ or 01-44-64-01-02. Indie-rock and electro concerts in former rail station.
La Maroquinerie, 23 rue Boyer; www.lamaroquinerie.fr/ or 01-40-33-35-05. Former leather tannery now a concert hall, restaurant and bar.
Culture Rapide, 103 rue Julien Lacroix; www.culturerapide.com or 01-46-36-08-04. Cabaret-bar offers DJ-nights, poetry slams.
RESTAURANTS:
Zoe Bouillon, 66 rue Rebeval, 01-42-02-02-83. Colorful soup bar; more substantial dishes at night.
Le Moai Blue, 97 rue de Melimontant, 01-43-66-91-91. Tasty Chilean food.
Le Vieux Belleville, 12 rue des Envierges, 01-44-62-92-66. Old-fashioned bistro; traditional French chansons with accordion accompaniment Thursday, Friday, Saturday evenings.
Reuan Thai, 36 rue de l’Orillon, 01-43-55-15-82. Authentic Thai food.
Salon de The Wenzhou. 24, rue de Belleville, 01-46-36-56-33. Chinese restaurant.
Mon Oncle le Vigneron, 2, rue Pradier, 01-42-00-43-30. No menu: you eat what the chef gets at the market daily.
Le Baratin, 3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 01-43-49-39-70. Lively bistro, wine bar.
Le Zephyr, 1 rue du Jourdain, 01-46-36-65-81. Art deco 1930s-style bistro.
CAFES AND BARS:
Doigts de Fee, 356 rue des Pyrenees. North African bakery.
La Mer a Boire, 1-3 rue des Envierges, la.meraboire.com/. Panoramic view of Paris from the top of the Parc de Belleville. Concerts, exhibits.
Aux Folies, 8 rue de Belleville. Bar that once belonged to Folies-Belleville cabaret hall frequented by Piaf.
Les 3 Chapeaux, 48 rue des Cascades, www.les3chapeaux.com/. Restaurant-bar, free weekend concerts.
La Cave des Cascades, 101 bis rue Menilmontant, 01-40-33-42-53. Showcases small wine producers at bar in back.
MAMASHELTER: 109 rue Bagnolet, www.mamashelter.com/ or 01-43-48-48-48. Rates start at $113. New 172-room hotel designed by Philippe Starck. Rooms include kitchenette and iMac providing TV, internet, Skype. Free electric bicycles for guests.
SHOPPING:
On Tuesdays and Fridays a colorful, multiethnic market stretches between the Belleville and Menilmontant Metro stations.
Every May, artists of Belleville and neighboring Menilmontant open their studios to the public for a few days. Information from artists’ collective Ateliers d’artistes de Belleville, 32 rue de la Mare, 01-46-36-44-09, www.ateliers-artistes-belleville.org/.
Boutiques near Henri Krasucki square.
WANDERING:
Pere Lachaise cemetery; alleyways and streets; gardens of La Campagne a Paris on rue Irenee-Blanc, Mondonville and Jules-Siegried; panoramic view of Paris from the Esplanade on Rue Piat.
— Emma Vandore
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