FROM ATLANTA TO ... Tuscany/Umbria, Italy
Five hidden treasures in Italy
Cox News Service
Friday, August 15, 2008
FLORENCE, Italy — There is more than enough to dazzle any visitor to the picturesque region between Florence and Rome, from unspoiled hillsides and extensive vineyards to medieval villages and splendid churches.
cott Norvell/For Cox Newspapers
If you go to Italy, don’t miss the medieval town of Orvieto, located in Italy’s Umbria region. This is the bell tower on its main piazza.
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Here are five hidden gems in the Tuscany/Umbria region that you shouldn’t overlook:
OVERNIGHTING IN PIAZZE
It is hard to beat the elegant yet homey Locanda Toscanini, a newly restored bed-and-breakfast halfway between Rome and Florence. Named after the composer Arturo Toscanini, who sojourned here in the 1930s, the turn-of-the-century palazzo is in the rural village of Piazze, and offers eight rooms and one suite. It boasts high-tech comforts such as high-speed wireless Internet (as well as air conditioning), but also old-fashioned charms. For example, a lovely Italian woman practices her English with guests as she cooks eggs to order. Owned by architect Michele Annesi and his American wife Courtney, the staff is willing to help with whatever guests might need, which creates a real family atmosphere. Rooms start at about $130 a night - and include a full breakfast - and two rooms can be connected for families. For information go to www.locandatoscanini.com.
TASTING IN TREQUANDA
In the heart of Tuscany, about 30 miles from Siena and about a mile from the village of Trequanda, is the Fattoria del Colle, a substantial complex of apartments converted from a historic farm. It has a fabulous restaurant that is worth the drive here alone. Lodging here is far from luxurious, but the place is comfortable and ideally situated within easy reach of attractive towns such as Pienza, Volterra and Montepulciano. The Fattoria del Colle produces its own olives and grapes, and the winery makes excellent wines, all of which can be sampled in the historic cantina at the main house. If nothing else, make a booking for dinner here. The outdoor tables offer stunning views and the food is unforgettable. For information go to www.cinellicolombini.it/.
EXPLORING IN ORVIETO
In southwestern Umbria, the stunning city of Orvieto is often bypassed in favor of more popular towns such as Siena, Pienza, and Perugia. But Orvieto is a city not to be missed. Its cathedral has one of the most beautiful facades in the world, decorated with millions of mosaic pieces. Beneath the city center, there is an incredible grid of grotto rooms, corridors, tunnels, wells and cisterns open to tours. It is a veritable hidden city discovered by chance in the 1970s following a landslide. For more information on this once important Etruscan city, go to www.orvietoonline.com.
SOAKING IN SAN CASCIANO DEI BAGNI
Weary of walking through one medieval village after another? A traditional Italian spa might be in order. The perfect spot is Fonteverde just outside the village of San Casciano dei Bagni, whose 42 thermal springs have been enjoyed since Roman times. The village is about 40 miles southeast of Siena in the Tuscan countryside. Fonteverde offers dozens of treatments, from anti-cellulite wraps for thighs to avocado compresses for scalps. The five-star hotel is stunning, but you can visit the spa without being a guest. For more information go to www.fonteverdespa.com. Or there are natural baths in the countryside open to anyone, including children. You must walk down the hill from the piazza in San Casciano dei Bagni to get there.
SHOPPING IN SIENA
If renting a vacation house or apartment, visit the supermarket-styled Consorzio Agrario in Siena, at Via Piangiani 9, to stock up on food and wine. A farmer’s co-op since 1901, the emporium has a wide range of salamis, cheeses and unique specialties. For more information go to www.capsi.it. Another good reason to visit Siena right now: the forthcoming James Bond movie, Quantum of Solace, reaches its climax just as the famous Palio horse race is about to begin. The Palio, a horse race dating from the 11th century, is a bareback dash around Siena’s fan-shaped Piazza del Campo that happens twice every summer.
AN EXTRA TIDBIT IN ROME
For those visiting Rome with children, a great sight is the Crypt of the Capuchin monks or, as it is sometimes called, the “Bone Church,” so named because intricate patterns and decorations made of bones cover every surface. It’s a somewhat macabre place, where skulls are lined up like milk bottles and backbone discs are laid out to look like flowers. A short walk from the Trevi Fountain, the Bone Church is at Via Veneto 27.



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