Seoul, South Korea - Wandering around this Asian capital, you might pass a shop displaying neat stacks of solid-colored cloth waiting to be fashioned into a custom-made hanbok, the traditional national dress. Inside, a seamstress might be on her knees ironing the garment on an ondol, a floor heated from below. In a concession to the 21st century, a TV or computer might be in the opposite corner.

At lunchtime, you might observe a deliveryman walking briskly, balancing on his head a tray crowded with an array of small covered dishes. He might be dodging cars, just one wrong move shy of bodily injury or of his teetering load crashing to the street.

Betty Gordon / AJC (ENLARGE)

On Mount Namsan along the trail to N. Seoul Tower, stop to take in a view of Seoul.

Betty Gordon / AJC (ENLARGE)

A sculpture outside the Third Tunnel illustrates the split between the countries and the desire by some for reunification.

Betty Gordon / AJC (ENLARGE)

Fallen yellow leaves and floral mosaics on the ground blend in with board games being played in a wooded park just outside the royal shrine of Jongmyo.

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In a wooded park just outside the royal palace of Jongmyo, you might see men — mostly middle-aged or older — quietly sitting on the ground or on stone benches hunched over board games, gently moving shiny black or white stones.

And on a street too narrow for trucks over by the huge Dongdaemun market, where four high-rise malls cater to shoppers, you might see a man kneeling on the sidewalk with a wooden frame strapped to his back loaded with six tightly rolled carpets. In the struggle to rise, he might push a rubber-tipped cane against the ground.

These snapshots of South Korea are testament to the fact that not everything in this city of almost 11 million people is go-go frantic. They're a reminder of where Seoul has been and, coupled with the neck-craning skyscrapers, traffic-clogged roads and the impressive historic palaces and museums, where it's going. Take notice of the scenes in between to round out the kaleidoscopic picture of this multinational, 614-year-old city and its environs.

The Third Tunnel and the War Memorial of Korea and Museum

Since the Korean War cease-fire in 1953 — no peace treaty was ever signed — the North Koreans have dug four tunnels into South Korea. The Third Tunnel, discovered in October 1978, is open to visitors.

Only about 27 miles north of Seoul and less than three miles south of the truce village of Panmunjom, the tunnel extends more than 1,400 feet south of the demarcation line between the two countries at the 38th parallel.

Inside the tunnel, water drips from the ceiling and walls, creating puddles on the path; naked light bulbs and spotlights provide dubious illumination; and you have to wear a blue hard hat to guard against hitting your head, which you will inevitably do, even though you'll be hunched over most of the way. Very tall people will be the most uncomfortable because the rocky arched ceiling is just over 6 feet at its highest point.

If you are even slightly claustrophobic, this isn't the place for you. Visitors should also be in reasonably good shape because the first section leading from the visitors center is at an 11-degree incline. You can turn back at any time, but you will have to negotiate the same incline on the way out. That said, at the bottom of the incline, I did see a branch off to the left with a rail line that gets sporadic use and must have a different exit for emergencies.

You'll be walking single file most of the way, that is until you reach as far as you're allowed to go, where you'll be looking through a hole in the rock into an empty space that may be North Korea — no signage gives a clue. At the turnaround, you'll have to squeeze by the line you were just in. The tunnel is granite, but that didn't stop the North Koreans from disingenuously saying they were extracting coal (having painted the tunnel black), not planning a surprise attack.

The cramped space will also have you wondering about the claim that in an hour, the North Koreans could move between 10,000 to 30,000 men in full gear with field artillery through the tunnel.

Several tour companies offer a demilitarized zone itinerary; make sure it includes the Third Tunnel and a stop at Panmunjom (also called the Joint Security Area) in the DMZ, where you'll be escorted part way by soldiers from the Republic of Korea and the U.S. Army. In one of the light blue United Nations buildings that sits atop the actual line of demarcation between the two countries, you'll be able to stand in North Korea and have your picture taken with an ROK soldier on enemy soil. The USO-run tour lasts about eight hours.

If you're on the USO tour, you'll be arriving back in Seoul around 3 p.m. You'll be within walking distance of the War Memorial of Korea and its museum, which is next door to the U.S. Army's Yongsan Garrison. (Ground had been broken on a site about 40 miles south of Seoul and the garrison is expected to be relocated by 2012.)

In the outdoor exhibition area of the museum is a collection of aircraft, tanks and military equipment that ranges from the Korean War (1950-53) to the present. Among the planes is a B-52, the wingspan of which is so wide that there are wheels at the tips. Some have ladders so that you can climb up for a look inside the cockpit.

Leading to the entrance is Peace Plaza, flanked by a military frieze on each side and galleries of monuments dedicated to those killed in action. You'll also see several sculptures, including one depicting two brothers fighting on opposite sides who meet on the battlefield, and the Korean War Monument, two different-colored oblong pieces of stone facing each other but not touching, again referencing the break between the countries.

More military equipment is inside the three-floor building, including Soviet-made artillery and aircraft. I spent most of my time looking at the Korean War displays, including one that illustrates how badly undermanned the South Korean military branches were when the North invaded in the early morning hours of June 25, 1950.

In the room that tells about the national forces that fought under the U.N. banner is what looks like a shiny teardrop-shaped chandelier that hangs from the ceiling over a large swirl of sand. Upon closer inspection, visitors will see that "The Drop" is composed of 1,300 servicemen's dog tags with barbed wire encircling the shape.

DMZ and Third Tunnel: Camp Kim USO offers tours several times a week, but the schedule is set month to month. Send an e-mail to get the schedule. You can make a reservation online but you must pay for your ticket at least four days in advance. $44 civilian; $22 active military. American dollars, Korean won and credit cards accepted. Lunch is not included; pack your own or bring about 10,000 ($10.20) for the restaurant stop. You must check in at Camp Kim by 7:15 a.m.; tour departs at 7:30. Tour subject to cancellation by the Joint Security Area. You must have your passport (or military ID) and follow the dress code. Subway line 4 (blue) or line 6 (brown) to Samgakji Station, Exit 6. Go left out of the station and walk a couple of blocks. When you get to the guards in front of a wall, you're there. 011-82-02-795-3028, www.uso.org/korea . E-mail: geeyoung.youn@korea.army.mil.

War Memorial of Korea and Museum: 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays; closed Mondays. Adults, $3; students, $2; ages 4-7, $1; Korean War veterans and active U. S. military both free with ID. 1 il ga, Yongsan-dong, Yongsan-gu. Subway line 4 (blue) or line 6 (brown), Samgakji Station, Exit 12. 011-82-02-709-3139, www.warmemo.co.kr .