Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia — This small Southeast Asia nation of 27 million is a multi-sensory celebration, and I have returned repeatedly to indulge my senses, ever since my Peace Corps service there in the early 1960s.

The list of things to see and do in Malaysia is long. Nature lovers can see wild monkeys and exotic birds in jungle areas. Tropical fish and coral formations are a delightful spectacle for snorkelers and divers in the clear waters off the East Coast's Perentian Island and the National Marine Park at Redang. The best beaches are on the West Coast islands of Langkawi and Pangkor.

John English / Special (ENLARGE)

Street markets in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, are common shopping experience for low-cost goods.

John English / Special (ENLARGE)

The Twin Towers of Petronas in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, house the Philharmonic auditorium and a chic shopping center.

John English / Special (ENLARGE)

Architecture in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia is a jumble. The old colonial-style bungalow housing the Malaysia office, shown here, is surrounded by modern high-rises.

RELATED LINKS: • Photos: See more of Malaysia • Shanghai: Where old China converges with the new • Int'l travel info and tourism offices • The ultimate travel guide • More international travel ideas

A visual kaleidoscope

For a bird's-eye view of Kuala Lumpur, the country's capital and largest city, zip to the top of Menara Tower, in the heart of the city. On a recent visit, I took the elevator — for RM20 ($6.75) — up to its observation deck, where I strolled around spotting landmarks around the sprawling city: Sentrul Station, Merdeka Square, Parliament, Times Square in Bukit Bintang and Cesar Pelli's elegant Petronas Towers, the fourth-tallest buildings in the world.

I also discovered the country's major showcase for contemporary architecture on a grand scale in Putrajaya, the new federal administrative capital being built halfway between Kuala Lumpur and its gleaming new airport. The airport express trains stop at Putrajaya, so it's easy to visit this astounding World's Fair-style development.

Pleasing the palate

The panoply of flavors in Malaysian food is strongly influenced by Indian and Chinese cooking. For breakfast, try roti canai, a fried crepe dipped in curry gravy, or nasi lemak, a rice dish with egg, dried fish, curry chicken and cucumber. Local coffee is a hearty brew because its beans are fried in butter and sugar instead of roasted; it's served in coffee shops called kedai kopi.

Dining outdoors is possible year-round because the climate is tropical rain forest. Hawkers prepare tasty noodle dishes on the street, but I prefer the luxe-version buffets at hotels and at Restoran Seri Melayu on Jalan Conlay.

I also have my fill of delectable tropical fruits, which I buy at roadside stands or in supermarkets. I'd urge you to sample them all — and if you're adventurous, try durian (the "king of the fruits") with mangosteen afterward. I savor it, but for many its strong smell is off-putting.

Aural treats

Cultured ears would enjoy the Malaysia Philharmonic, a lively, innovative orchestra that performs in its own elegant KLCC hall in Petronas Towers. I heard the orchestra play an original piece composed by a local woman, while a wayang kulit (shadow puppets) troupe presented its Ramayana tale on a screen behind the orchestra. It was a memorable evening, uniquely Malaysian. The refined crowd — women in colorful Malay dresses and men in batik shirts — responded warmly.

I also link street sounds to this place. Throughout every day, I find the imams' calls to prayer from the minarets of mosques soothing, lending an air of spirituality to this country. On an opposite note, on Kuala Lumpur's Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman one evening, I heard another "symphony" from hundreds of crows squawking in trees. Pure cacophony!

Multiculturalism

"Asia in miniature" is what some call Malaysia because of its diverse population.

The indigenous majority are Malays, who control the government. Ethnic Chinese dominate the business sector. Immigrants from the Indian subcontinent work mostly in the service industry, and clusters of Thais, Burmese and Indonesians also invigorate the country.

Predictably, there is some tension between groups, but the country has been stable for 40 years. Boasts Tourism Minister Tengku (Prince) Adnan Mansor: "Nowhere in the world do people of such different backgrounds live in such perfect harmony." His claim is only slightly exaggerated.

Malaysia is a country that generally runs smoothly. Its infrastructure is modern. Its citizens are educated, thanks to the comprehensive school system set up by former British colonials.

Its population maintains a relatively high standard of living, with a robust economy based on electronics manufacturing and tourism. Unemployment is low. Food and housing are affordable. Crime is negligible. The major complaint people have is rush-hour traffic.

Religion, nightlife, too

Malaysia is full of surprises. For example, Malays are devoutly Muslim, yet Malaysia is a pluralistic society with religious diversity, so cities also have Protestant and Catholic churches, Chinese and Indian temples and even Burmese and Thai ones.

More unexpected are gambling casinos at Genting and a boisterous nightlife. Noisy clubs such as Rum Jungle and Aloha along Jalan P. Ramlee in Kuala Lumpur's central triangle attract revelers nightly, while other, more sedate, cultural events take place in suburban neighborhoods such as Hartamas or Bangsar. I attended a jazz festival at Mount Kiara mall and listened to free music over a Starbucks coffee.

Malaysians have a sense of humor that's widely shared. Local cartoonist LAT is venerated for his gentle ribbing of the national psyche, and a Malay version of Mad magazine, titled Gila-Gila, has been spooning out satire for decades.

The national pastime

For shoppers, Malaysia offers a wide variety of goods and experiences, from street night markets, called pasar malam, to grand malls. The most upscale and global choice is Suria KLCC. On its third floor, I found several boutiques offering fine local antiques and craft souvenirs next to a contemporary art gallery.

The best site for handicrafts is Kuala Lumpur's Central Market, which features such locally made goods as brightly decorated Chinese clogs, batik, wood carvings and a vast array of decorative T-shirts. The most exquisite souvenir is kain songkit, cloth intricately handwoven with gold threads. Some handicrafts — such as betel nut kits and book holders for the Quran — are made for locals.

For low-cost goods and luxury knockoffs, nearby Petaling Street is a market accessible day or night, rain or shine because of its undulating blue fiberglass roof. Bargaining is the norm, but buyer beware. What may look like luxury items are counterfeits.

Antique shoppers should head to Malacca, the country's oldest city, a couple of hours south of Kuala Lumpur on the major toll road. Jonker Street, also called Hang Jebat Street, has several blocks of Asian curio shops, and it's fun to look around, but I saw few bargains.

Historic Malacca

Malacca's historic downtown, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, is worth a visit. Two houses on Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock Street are open to visitors eager to get a sense of early Chinese-Malay family life.

The Baba-Nonya House, at No. 50, is full of pristine Chinese baroque furniture and artifacts that show how aristocratic families once lived. The other historic house is across the street at No. 120. That 140-year-old house is now Restoran Pernakan, where I lunched on Baba-Nonya-style cooking in an open-air atrium with marble-top tables and patterned tile floors. Nonya dishes are a spicy combo of Malay, Chinese and Indian cooking.

The old Dutch-influenced red buildings along Jalan Kota (Fort Road) are now tourist attractions, museums with such focuses as contemporary local art, stamps, kites, maritime and the Muslim world. I especially liked the one specializing in local architecture.

This tourist area literally swarms with pedicabs decorated with colorful plastic flowers and garlands. The center of interest is the remains of the old port, called A' Famosa, which has been upstaged by a nearby mega-mall built on reclaimed land.

Penang's charm

On the northern west coast is the island of Penang, which has been my favorite place in Malaysia since I was a visiting professor there in the early 1980s.

Penang's charm is spread out — but it's easy to get around on public buses, taxis or pedicabs. The central shopping artery downtown is Penang Road, which ends at the legendary Eastern & Orient Hotel (known as the E&O).

Near the E&O is one of Penang's newest treasures, the Chong Fatt Tse mansion, an 1890s Chinese building that was in the same rich Hakka family until 1989, when the last son died. A local architect bought and restored the bright blue mansion and converted it into a house museum and small bed-and-breakfast. Another UNESCO Heritage site, the mansion is a must-see.

I also enjoy the Penang Museum, nearby on Farquhar Street, which includes among its historical exhibits such eclectic artifacts as the first prime minister's Rolls-Royce as well as a colorful Chinese wedding ensemble, bed and all. Details about how Penang became the center of the world rubber market are also fascinating.

About five miles around the island is the Batu Ferrenghi strip of once-grand resort hotels. The main attraction these days is the Rasa Sayang Beach Hotel, which has been elegantly refurbished by the Shangri-La chain. Its lush gardens, Tibetan spa and superb restaurants make it a destination on its own. My modest budget would more likely put me in the funky Lone Pine Hotel, now run by the E&O hoteliers.

The food in Penang has considerable Thai influence, as you'll discover if you try the local specialty, sour laksa noodle soup with fish sauce. It's quite pleasant to watch the sunset at the outdoor stalls along Gurney Drive or lunch at the New World Park on Jalan Burma. I also can't resist the Indian stalls downtown that serve curry and condiments on a banana leaf. Overall, though, the best dining value in Penang is the weekend brunch buffet at the E&O.

Millions of tourists

Malaysia's extensive tourist industry attracts some 20 million annual visitors, but most are from neighboring countries.

In a conversation with Penang Heritage guide Joann Khaw, she candidly said, "Not many tourists from America come here since 9/11. I guess it's because we're a Muslim country."

I was astounded by that observation. In my wanderings all over the country, I've never had an incident, felt threatened or seen anti-American sentiment. It may help that I have a working knowledge of the Malay language (English is widely used), but my experiences have consistently been delightful, and I'm looking forward to going back again.

John English is a professor emeritus of journalism at the University of Georgia in Athens. He wrote "Fodor's Guide to Malaysia" in 1990.

IF YOU GO

Getting there

Four Asian airlines serve the Atlanta-to-Kuala Lumpur route. Singapore Airlines goes through Amsterdam, Netherlands, or Newark, N.J., to Singapore and on to Kuala Lumpur. Cathay Pacific flies via Dallas, Los Angeles and Hong Kong. Korean Air travels through L.A. and Seoul, South Korea. Malaysia flies from Newark to Stockholm Sweden, to Kuala Lumpur. Delta goes through L.A., Taipei, Taiwan, or Seoul. Round-trip fares begin at $1,600.

The best way to get into Kuala Lumpur from its new airport is the KLIA ekspres train, which terminates at Sentrul Station. Fare is RM35 ($11) one way.

Where to stay

Kuala Lumpur:

• Hotel Maya, five-star boutique hotel in city center. From $240. www.hotelmaya.com.my

• Crown Regency Service Suites, city center apartments. From $73. www.crownregency.com.my

Malacca:

• Hotel Equatorial Melaka, five stars. From $150. www.equatorial.com/mel

Penang:

E&O Hotel, city center. From $180. www.e-o-hotel.com

• Chong Fatt Tse Mansion, bed-and-breakfast, city center. From $100. www.chongfatttsemansion.com

Batu Ferringhi:

• Lone Pine Hotel. From $70. www.lonepinehotel.com

• Shangri-La's Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa. From $210. www.shangrila.com

Information

• Tourism Malaysia: www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my