Kotor, Montenegro — The sail into the town of Kotor is movie-perfect for romance. The narrow bay is an inlet like a fjord, hugged by dark mountains. The town's harbor is backed by a 600-foot mountain rising above the sea, protected by almost three miles of ancient, zig-zag, stone walls.

This little-heralded town of 13,000 in Montenegro is one of the reasons why the Dalmatian coast makes for one of Europe's most beautiful cruises. Mostly bordering Croatia, just across the Adriatic Sea from Italy, the deeply indented coastline is a parade of jagged mountains and mellow towns. The water, the deepest shade of sapphire blue, is dotted with small islands that are popular vacation destinations.

Overseas Adventure Travel (ENLARGE)

A stone wall runs along the harbor in Kotor, Montenegro. The town was a maritime and commercial center in the Middle Ages.

Eleanor Berman (ENLARGE)

Guards in Roman garb suggest what Diocletian's palace in Split may have looked like 1,700 years ago when it was built by the last pagan emperor of Rome, who was born in Croatia.

Overseas Adventure Travel (ENLARGE)

The Athena, a 50-passenger ship that sails the Dalmatian Coast, was launched in 2007.

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The scenery and the sights are nonstop on the aptly named cruise-tour labeled Hidden Gems of Greece and the Dalmatian Coast. The Athena, a 50-passenger, oceangoing ship launched in 2007 by Overseas Adventure Travel, is the next best thing to a private yacht.

The best-known stop on the cruise is the walled city of Dubrovnik, but towns such as Kotor and the Croatian island city of Korcula, both also guarded by ancient stone walls, are equally delightful and less crowded. The trip begins in Athens or Zagreb, Croatia. On our trip, the Athena sailed from the Athens port of Piraeus, stopping at Delphi and Corfu before heading north on the Adriatic. The first port, the little town of Sarana in Albania, held the first unexpected treasure. A bumpy uphill bus ride ended in Butrint National Park, home of the city of Buthrotum. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, this was once a flourishing Roman settlement, then a Venetian military outpost for 400 years. Recent excavation has uncovered a number of ruins, spanning some 2,000 years.

Next came the spectacular entry into Kotor. In the Middle Ages, Kotor was a commercial and maritime center. Past a town gate dating from 1555, a maze of twisting, uphill, cobbled lanes open into squares lined with cafes, churches and palaces built of stone blocks during the town's glory years (1420-1797), when it was part of the Republic of Venice.

The fun of Kotor is exploring its jumble of streets, discovering tiny shops selling musical instruments, antiques, rugs, paintings and dolls dressed in native costumes. No worry about getting lost; all roads eventually lead back to a main square.

After another morning in Kotor, the ship sailed for Dubrovnik, arriving before dinner, affording an opportunity to appreciate the city's beauty after most tourists had left. The top of the walls of Dubrovnik make for an unforgettable one-mile stroll, with views of the red-tiled roofs and spires of the city and the blue sea beyond.

The one problem with Dubrovnik is its popularity. The next morning's activities wisely were scheduled early, before the summer heat set in — and before the big ships in the harbor disgorged thousands of passengers into the narrow streets. At that point, many Athena passengers, headed back to the ship.

That night brought the week's most memorable meal, as passengers were divided into small groups for dinner in a local home. Ours was a simple but tasty meal prepared by a charming hostess at her 200-year-old stone farmhouse above the city.

The Athena sailed on to the island of Korcula during the night, docking just below a stone stairway leading to the tiny walled city. Within the walls is a warren of narrow stone-paved lanes and small squares lined with churches, homes and shops. One building undergoing restoration is a house some historians believe belonged to the explorer Marco Polo. A favorite activity is relaxing in one of the cafes that face the sea.

A castle fortress towers on a hill above the next island town, Hvar, which is being touted by travel magazines as an upcoming hot spot for young jet-setters. The influx means some of the buildings in the Old Town have given way to modern hotels. The crowd here could be judged by a picture sign on the walkway from the pier: no dogs, bicycles, rollerbladers — or bikinis. Hvar is known as the "lavender island," and the reason is evident on a drive inland past fields of lavender.

The last cruise port, Split, is a change of pace, a city of 200,000 with a bustling harbor that is the hub of the Dalmatian coast for boats to the islands.

The final three days of the trip moved inland by bus for one night in Plitvice National Park, known for its lakes and waterfalls, and then to the Croatian capital of Zagreb for two nights, with free days to explore the city after an introductory guided walk.

After a final dinner together, the group parted, with wonderful memories of the Dalmatian coast and a trip that had fully lived up to its promise of "hidden gems."

IF YOU GO

About the cruise

Hidden Gems of the Dalmatian Coast is offered by Overseas Adventure Travel from March through October, starting at $4,370. Rates include airfare from New York, Boston or Philadelphia, two hotel nights in Zagreb, one night in the Plitvice lakes region, 10 or 11 nights on the Athena (or the Athena's new, identical sister ship Artemis), a guided tour at every stop, most meals and complimentary wine at dinner. Every cruise includes a few nights of authentic folk entertainment from the area and a dinner hosted in a local home.

The ship accommodates two groups, each with a maximum of 25 and with its own leader. The two groups mingle at the open-seating dinner, but tour separately. Cabins are a compact 140 square feet, but careful design with built-ins provides ample storage and leaves a surprising amount of free space. A private terrace comes with 18 of the 26 cabins for extra room and a view of the passing scene. Eight cabins have large portholes; two of these are single cabins.

Information: 1-800-493-6824, www.oattravel.com .

Eleanor Berman is the author of six nonfiction books and 12 travel guides, including "New York Neighborhoods," winner of the Independent Publishers award as best guidebook of the year.