• What to know if you go     • Photos

WAYNE SNOW /Staff (ENLARGE)

The Blue Mosque, with several billowing domes, is another of Istanbul's must-see architectural sites. Its name is derived from the many thousands of blue tiles inside.

WAYNE SNOW /Staff (ENLARGE)

The Spice Market makes for a mesmerizing stroll -- filled with bright colors, pleasant smells and tasty treats of all kinds, ranging from Turkish delight to caviar.

WAYNE SNOW /Staff (ENLARGE)

Street-side restaurants featured lamb cooked vertically and cut in thin slices.

WAYNE SNOW /Staff (ENLARGE)

The Ottoman heir lived in a pair of gorgeously ornate rooms in Topkapi Palace's Harem that were sometimes called the Golden Cage.

Istanbul, Turkey — Mention Turkish delight and your mind might wander to the sticky, addictive little cubes of starch and sugar that are prevalent all over Istanbul. But Turkish delights can also apply to the entire peninsula that forms the heart of old Istanbul.

For those inclined to think in historical terms, it scarcely gets any better than this.

Without exaggeration, this is one of the most important and coveted pieces of geography in the history of the human race, the setting for many of the most important economic, spiritual and strategic struggles of mankind.

Signs abound of its importance and splendor through the ages.

The Basilica Cistern, popularized in the James Bond classic "From Russia With Love," and the enormous Hagia Sophia museum are beautiful Byzantine structures built during the reign of the Emperor Justinian (527-565 A.D.).

More "modern" treasures like the Blue Mosque (1603-1617), Suleymaniye Mosque (1550-1557) and Topkapi Palace owe their existence to the Ottoman sultans, whose reign over the city began in the mid-1400s.

In the midst of the man-made wonders, the tourist can never forget — because it is visible from so many vantage points — that the city straddles the Bosporus (also spelled Bosphorus), planting one foot in Europe and the other in Asia.

The Bosporus is the narrow, 20-mile strait that controls the flow of oceangoing goods moving between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara — and farther south to the Mediterranean and points east and west.

It is a special geography that made Istanbul a kind of pivot point in the north-south and east-west traffic in trade and ideas.

Many price ranges

To make it even better for tourists, all this is within easy walking distance of numerous hotels in all price ranges. For those who aren't up to walking, a simple but functional tram runs by all the must-see sights.

The most-visited landmark is Topkapi Palace, a sprawling complex of buildings within high walls that for nearly four centuries was the heart of the Ottoman Empire and home of the sultans.

Construction began shortly after Mehmet the Conqueror captured the city in 1453. Additions were still being made in the mid-1800s, when the Sultan Abdulmecid finally abandoned Topkapi in favor of the luxurious new Dolmabahce Palace.

The complexity is never more apparent than in the mysterious Harem, an intricately tiled beehive of 300-plus rooms where lived the sultan, the eunuchs who served as his administrators and other servants and perhaps as many as 800 concubines.

Visitors should plan to spend a minimum of two hours here, more if you like. This is a self-guided tour. Tourists rent small telephonelike listening devices and hear a narrator with a British accent detailing the main points of interest.

The Harem was very regimented in a physical sense — first the area for the eunuchs, then that of the concubines and finally the magnificently tiled rooms of the sultan himself — and very complex in the personal relationships that played out there.

This was a place where eunuchs could rise to positions of power and influence, as could some of the concubines. Becoming pregnant earned a concubine a better room. The mother of the sultan and the mother of the heir were powerful figures.

In some respects, the sultan and his relatives lived in a kind of prison, particularly the presumptive heir. A pair of ornate rooms with access to a large courtyard and pool were called the Golden Cage, the narrator said, because the heir lived as a virtual prisoner there.

Despite what is known about life in the Harem, historians say that much is not, a fact that adds to the mystery of the place.

When museum fatigue sets in, tourists can go to the palace restaurant and cafe. My companion and I got a table overlooking the Bosporus, where we rested, had a drink and watched the boat traffic.

Then we tackled some of the priceless museum pieces from Topkapi's treasury. There were sultans' thrones, the sword of Suleiman the Magnificent, centuries-old wraps and prayer rugs, gold candleholders as tall as a man, the purported relics of John the Baptist (a piece of his skull and part of his forearm, both encased in gold) and an 86-carat diamond supposedly found in a pile of trash.

My favorite was the mid-18th-century Topkapi Dagger, originally intended as a gift for the Shah of Iran. It features three enormous emeralds embedded in the handle. It also figured in the 1964 movie thriller "Topkapi," starring Peter Ustinov and Melina Mercouri.

On the water

Unlike the physical exertions of Topkapi, a Bosporus cruise is both restful and memorable.

The boats leave from docks near Galata Bridge on the Golden Horn. Six-hour cruises go all the way to the Black Sea and stop at several points along the way.

We chose a shorter 90-minute cruise that took us as far north as the second of two graceful bridges spanning the Bosporus. We turned back at the site of a 15th-century fort built by Mehmet the Conqueror as part of his successful campaign to capture the city.

Refreshing sea breezes and smells invigorated us as our double-decked vessel dodged among myriad other tourist boats, pleasure craft, fishing boats and oceangoing cargo ships with Russian names.

The view from the water is a vivid reminder that Turkey is an Islamic country. Graceful minarets and the domes of mosques dominate the landscape.

The Bosporus is the best vantage point from which to shoot pictures of Dolmabahce Palace.

Unlike Topkapi Palace, which is clearly Eastern in origin, Dolmabahce is an opulent, ornate, Western-style palace that extends for more than a quarter of a mile along the waterfront.

Its magnificent ceremonial hall — boasting what was once the world's largest chandelier — is still used for state occasions, including a visit by President Bush in 2004.

Istanbul was about much more than historic buildings and natural wonders. Among my most vivid memories are those things that involved interaction with the people.

The streets, sidewalks and shops were full of hustle and bustle. Periodically the Islamic prayer calls blared from speakers at the mosques.

While I was visiting, there were political demonstrations in Ankara, Turkey, and Istanbul over the role of religion in government, but I never felt uncomfortable or in any danger. We visited three mosques and always felt welcome, although we made sure to stay away during prayer times.

Going through the Grand Bazaar, the massive and justly famous anything-goes market of 4,000 shops, and the smaller Spice Market was sheer fun because of the personal contact. I especially liked the Spice Market because of the tasty treats, brilliant colors and exotic smells.

As we walked by shops, we'd hear a progression of languages from the shopkeepers — English, Russian, French — trying to guess our nationality and find a common language so they could tell us why we should buy from them instead of their neighbor.

An interest in English

English was commonly spoken in restaurants, stores and on the street. If we needed directions or had questions, it wasn't difficult to find someone willing to help.

Many of the children were curious and eager to try out their English on a real American. On at least three occasions, I had young people approach me and make a point of saying in their limited English, "I like America." And then they would giggle and blush.

That friendliness may have been a little thing, but it contributed to an overall sense of satisfaction about the trip. In fact, my favorite picture of the more than 200 I shot was a spontaneous group photo at Hagia Sophia.

I had seen one teenager shooting a picture of another and offered to shoot them together. Then they offered to shoot me and my companion. Suddenly, we were engulfed by a large group of happy, laughing Turkish kids.

It made a great picture and a wonderful footnote to a memorable trip.

IF YOU GO

Getting there

Istanbul is served by most major Western airlines. I booked my flight through Expedia at a round-trip cost of $1,034. My flight was Atlanta to Paris to Istanbul. The return was Istanbul to New York to Atlanta. Flight time was about 12 hours.

Where to stay

There are many hotels in all price ranges in the vicinity of old Istanbul. I stayed at Hotel Niles because of its glowing reviews online. The room was small but immaculately clean, with a Western-style bathroom and shower. A five-night stay, transportation to and from the airport, a continental breakfast each morning on a rooftop terrace overlooking the Sea of Marmara and the best service I have ever had was a little under $450. Seda Kucukbenli, the front desk manager, had the gift of making guests feel welcome and was a great ambassador for the hotel and the city. www.hotelniles.com.

Where to eat

Because Istanbul is on the water, half of our main meals were at seafood restaurants. One night we ate at Fener Fish Restaurant in a historic, touristy fish market on the Sea of Marmara. For about 95 Turkish lira (about $68), we had transportation to and from the hotel, appetizers, a main course and live violin music. We ate fresh fish at another restaurant under the Galata Bridge after our Bosporus cruise. When not eating fish, we ate kebabs of lamb or chicken, vegetables and bread. At night we snacked on fruit, bread and sweets from a small corner market.

Money

ATMs were plentiful and dispensed money in Turkish lira (YTL), U.S. dollars and euros. The current exchange rate is about 1.33 lira for $1.

What to do

• Topkapi Palace: This is the single most visited place in Istanbul. It was home to the sultans for nearly four centuries and is the object of enduring myths. Go early and allow yourself half a day for the Harem and other sites. Go to the Harem first, because the crowds will increase during the day. Admission is 10 lira (about $7.50) at the main entrance, plus another 10 lira for the Harem. Cameras are allowed. english.istanbul.gov.tr/Default.aspx?pid=349.

• Dolmabahce Palace: Take the tram across the Golden Horn to this European-style palace built in the waning days of the Ottoman Empire. Visitors are guided through the public portion of the palace and the harem wearing little hospital-like booties to protect the floors. Admission is 15 lira (about $11.25) for the public part of the palace, 10 lira (about $7.50) for the harem and 12 lira (about $9) for a camera. The tours last a total of about two hours. english.istanbul.gov.tr/Default.aspx?pid=356.

• Hagia Sophia: Built in the sixth century, this was first a church — once the most important in the Christian world — later a mosque and now a museum. An enormous scaffolding is in place inside, with work under way on the ceiling, but a visit is still memorable. This is an immense architectural masterpiece, with some of its famous mosaics still in place. Admission is 10 lira (about $7.50). www.byzantines.net

/epiphany/hagiasophia.htm.

• Blue Mosque, Suleymaniye Mosque: Visitors are welcome in these elegant structures, but they should avoid going at prayer time. Visitors will be required to remove shoes before entering, but places are provided to leave them at the entrance. Women should cover their heads. Admission is by donation.

• Basilica Cistern: Built in the sixth century, the cistern is a virtual underground palace with 336 marble columns. Two are supported by Medusa-head bases. One is upside down, the other sideways. I was surprised to see fish in the water. Admission is 10 lira (about $7.50). www.istanbulportal.com/istanbulportal/BasilicaCistern.aspx.

• Grand Bazaar: This is a maze of narrow corridors jammed with 4,000 shops and restaurants of all kinds. Even if you don't plan to buy anything, this is a must-see. Chances are, you'll find something you like. Bargaining is expected, even fun.

• Spice Market: Also called the Egyptian Market, this bazaar features a variety of goods, but most are exotic foods and spices. Russian and Iranian caviar, Turkish delight and other sweet treats, nuts and mountains of spices are available for a price. Again, bargaining is expected. english.istanbul.com/ExploreNew.asp?cat=16&which=109.

• Bosporus cruise: Some cruises go all the way to the Black Sea or points south. We chose a 90-minute cruise as far north as the second Bosporus bridge. We passed Dolmabahce Palace and other smaller palaces, an old Ottoman fort and elegant water-side mansions. This was an open-sided, double-decked vessel that provided good visibility on both sides. The cost was 20 lira (about $15). www.guideistanbul.net/cruise.htm.

• Whirling dervishes: The famous Sufi mystics perform on Fridays at Sirkeci Train Station, the terminus of the historic Orient Express. My hotel arranged for our tickets. Arrive about an hour early to get in line at the entrance and improve your chance for a front-row seat. The performance lasts about an hour and will likely be a sellout. Admission was 30 lira (about $22.50). www.istanbullife.org/whirling-dervish-ceromony-sirkeci.html.

Information

Istanbul Convention and Visitors Bureau, www.icvb.org.