If You Go

Getting there

Delta Air Lines flies nonstop from Atlanta to Prague, Czech Republic, for about $1,200, though fares may be less in the off-season. Take the bus from the airport to the metro stop Dejvicka (on the green line), go five stops to the Muzeum station, then transfer to the red line and go one stop north to Hlavni nadrazi, which also has a train station. Trains depart about every two hours to Dresden and make the trip in about 2 1/2 hours. Do beware: The train station is a bit derelict, with unsavory-looking characters lurking about. Check Rail Europe for schedules www.raileurope.com. About $65 round trip. Or, fly Lufthansa via Frankfurt to Dresden, or Delta or British Airways to London Gatwick and get a connecting flight. You can also fly Delta to Berlin and get the train from there.

What to see

• Frauenkirche: 10 a.m.-noon and 1-6 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; Sunday services 11 a.m. and 6 p.m. Free. To visit the dome, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 12:30-7 p.m. Sundays March-October; shorter hours rest of the year. 8 euros (about $12), 5 euros (about $7.50) for senior citizens. Audio tours and guided tours. Neumarkt, 011-49-0-351-498-1131, www.frauenkirche-dresden.de(in German and some English).

• New Synagogue: On Nov. 9, 1938, on what became known as Kristallnacht (Night of Broken Glass), the Semper Synagogue was destroyed. All that remained was a gold Star of David that Dresden firefighter Alfred Neugebauer rescued and kept until it was installed in the New Synagogue, which opened in 2001. Tours available. Am Hasenberg 1, 011-49-0-351-656-8825.

• Semper Opera House: Built 1838-41 and named for its architect, Gottfried Semper. This is the third time the opera house has occupied this site: A fire and WWII destroyed the first two. Theaterplatz 2. For tickets: 011-49-0-351-491-1705, www.semperoper.de

Where to stay

• Art ‘otel Dresden, by Park Place. You can’t miss the sculpture of the naked man on the roof, nor the modern artwork — which is for sale — by Dresden’s A.R. Penck in the lobby, hallways and guest rooms. Clean, medium-size rooms, with good lighting. About a 20-minute walk from the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Rates from about $120, tax included, without breakfast. Gives AAA and other discounts. Ostra-Allee 33. 011-49-0-351-49220, 1-888-201-1803; www.parkplaza.com

• Steigenberger Hotel de Saxe. The hotel is renowned for its high standard of service. From $395. Across from the Frauenkirche. Neumarkt 7. 011-49-0-351-43860, 1-866-991-1299; www.desaxe-dresden.steigenberger.de

• Ibis Dresden Bastei. Ibis has three identical hotels in a row about a five-minute walk from the Hauptbahnhof. No frills here, just small, clean rooms and tiny bathrooms with shower stalls. From about $130, tax included, without breakfast. Prager Strasse 5. 011-49-0-351-4856-5445, www.ibis-dresden.de

Where to eat

• Cafe zur Frauenkirche, a cafe, bar and restaurant directly across from the church. An der Frauenkirche 7, 011-49-0-351-498-9836, www.restaurant-dresden.de.

• Cafe Schinkelwache, a small restaurant near the Zwinger complex that was originally a guardhouse built by Berlin architect Friedrich Schinkel (1781-1841). Am Theaterplatz 2, 011-49-0-351-490-3909, www.restaurant-dresden.de.

• Kunst Cafe Antik. Descend the stairs and you’ll find a restaurant that doubles as an antiques shop. An der Frauenkirche 5. 011-49-0-351-496-5217, www.kunstcafeantik-frauenkirche.de (in German).

Books

• “Slaughterhouse-Five” by Kurt Vonnegut. The author was a prisoner of war during the bombings and based his novel on some of his experiences.

• “I Will Bear Witness: A Diary of the Nazi Years, 1933-1941 and 1942-1945” by Victor Klemperer. A professor of Romance languages at the Dresden Technical Institute, Klemperer documented life under the Third Reich in Dresden.

Information

Dresden tourism: www.dresden.de/dwt/en/index.php

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BY THE NUMBERS

3,539

stones from the original church used in the rebuilding

500,000

approximate number of total stones in the structure

1,854

number of seats at capacity

$210 million

approximate cost of reconstruction; 65 percent provided through donations

Source: “The Dresden Frauenkirche” (Schoning Verlag)

— Betty Gordon