For the Journal-Constitution
Published on: 08/24/04
LINVILLE, N.C. — In the western Carolinas, you have ample opportunities to interact with the tops and sides of the mountains, literally from one border to the other.
But if you'd like to go underneath a mountain in the Carolinas, only one public caverns can provide that unique perspective on nature's grandeur. Linville Caverns, north of Marion, N.C., is easy to find on U.S. 221 between Marion and the town of Linville, and offers a cool underground half-hour exploration of geology's ancient handiwork.
Linville Caverns | |||
| Visitors pause for a photo beside a stalactite in Linville Caverns. As one guide explained: Stalactites grow 'tight to the ceiling,' and stalagmites grow from the ground. | |||
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Linville Caverns' natural "water features" include burbling streams that run alongside the walkways, supporting a population of trout, and a "bottomless" pool at least 250 feet deep (they ran out of measuring rope at that point). The theory is that, as the nearby Catawba River ate away at the valley between the Humpback and Linville mountains, the water-filled caverns slowly drained from the top. The process is nowhere near complete.
The trout that enjoy the cool cavern streams are responsible for the caverns being discovered in 1822. Fishermen at the base of the Humpback noticed trout swimming into the side of the mountain and disappearing. With pine-wood torches, they were the first white settlers to see the formations and growths that began some 30 million years ago.
First opened for public touring in 1939, Linville Caverns remains a family-friendly and family-priced tour stop. Caverns in general seem to provide interest to nearly all ages, from the sheer experience of being safely underground to the mind-boggling span of history. Linville's tour, covering about a half-mile round trip on safe, mostly level pathways, runs the right amount of time for those with a short attention span.
The tour, led by friendly, informed guides, is not devoid of adventure: You discover yourself standing on a metal grate above that clear, mirrorlike bottomless pool.
And, as some cavern tours do, at a later point the guide douses all the lights. "There are only two places on Earth you can experience this total lack of light," guide Kate Stevens tells visitors. "That's at the bottom of the ocean, and inside a cave."
She also offers a tool for remembering the difference between a stalactite and a stalagmite: "A stalactite grows tight to the ceiling, whereas a stalagmite might grow up from the ground some day."
The range of natural colors attracts the eye as well. Stevens explains why: "The water in these caverns contains lots of minerals. Iron oxide in what we call 'cave onyx' is what makes it black. Manganese is also black, blue comes from zinc or cobalt, pinkish-orange represents iron oxide on its own, calcium carbonate provides a white color — and the green comes from either algae or moss, created by the artificial electric light shining on the water."
She explains that the caverns continue for about another quarter-mile under the mountain. The ceilings are lower, though, and the openings less passable. At the point where we pause for this discussion, we are told the Blue Ridge Parkway runs directly overhead, quite a distance up through mostly solid rock.
More than some caverns, Linville is damp inside, and it's quite likely that visitors will be dripped on at some point. Taller visitors will also spend some time along the path ducking overhead rocks.
It's also wise to be prepared with a light jacket or sweater for the half-hour underground. Inside Linville Caverns, the climate stays a steady 52 degrees year-round.
Of the East Coast caverns, Linville is not the largest or most fascinating. But if a visit to the central portion of the North Carolina mountains is on tap, Linville is a pleasant stop.



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