Beauty under N.C. mountains


For the Journal-Constitution
Published on: 08/24/04

LINVILLE, N.C. — In the western Carolinas, you have ample opportunities to interact with the tops and sides of the mountains, literally from one border to the other.

But if you'd like to go underneath a mountain in the Carolinas, only one public caverns can provide that unique perspective on nature's grandeur. Linville Caverns, north of Marion, N.C., is easy to find on U.S. 221 between Marion and the town of Linville, and offers a cool underground half-hour exploration of geology's ancient handiwork.

Linville Caverns
Visitors pause for a photo beside a stalactite in Linville Caverns. As one guide explained: Stalactites grow 'tight to the ceiling,' and stalagmites grow from the ground.
 
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Getting there
• Driving: Take I-85 northeast from Atlanta to I-26 north to Asheville, N.C., then I-40 east to exit 85 (Marion/Rutherfordton). Turn left on U.S. 221 and follow 221 (226 will turn off to the left about halfway to the caverns) 18 miles to Linville Caverns entrance. The large sign comes up fairly quickly on the right; entrance is on left. Restrooms are available next to the gift shop building. Alternate route: Pick up the Blue Ridge Parkway in Asheville; exit at Route 221/Linville Falls; take Route 221 south to the caverns on your right. (Note: Blue Ridge Parkway speed limit is 45 mph).
• Flying: Charlotte Douglas Airport is the closest major airport. Expect to pay $250-$300 round trip to Charlotte; Delta Air Lines has a cheaper flight from Atlanta to Asheville ($230 round-trip).

Where to stay
• Nearest towns with lodging include Marion and Little Switzerland to the south, Spruce Pine to the west and Blowing Rock to the north.

About the caverns
• Linville Caverns, U.S. 221 North between Marion and Linville (P.O. Box 567, Marion, NC 28752). Admission: $5 for adults, $4 for seniors 62 and up, $3 for children 5-12 (4 and under free); discounts available for groups of 25 or more. Open daily from March through November, only open weekends in December, January and February; closed Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day. Hours: June 1–Labor Day, 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; April, May, September and October, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; November and March, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Web site, 1-800-419-0540.

Linville Caverns' natural "water features" include burbling streams that run alongside the walkways, supporting a population of trout, and a "bottomless" pool at least 250 feet deep (they ran out of measuring rope at that point). The theory is that, as the nearby Catawba River ate away at the valley between the Humpback and Linville mountains, the water-filled caverns slowly drained from the top. The process is nowhere near complete.

The trout that enjoy the cool cavern streams are responsible for the caverns being discovered in 1822. Fishermen at the base of the Humpback noticed trout swimming into the side of the mountain and disappearing. With pine-wood torches, they were the first white settlers to see the formations and growths that began some 30 million years ago.

First opened for public touring in 1939, Linville Caverns remains a family-friendly and family-priced tour stop. Caverns in general seem to provide interest to nearly all ages, from the sheer experience of being safely underground to the mind-boggling span of history. Linville's tour, covering about a half-mile round trip on safe, mostly level pathways, runs the right amount of time for those with a short attention span.

The tour, led by friendly, informed guides, is not devoid of adventure: You discover yourself standing on a metal grate above that clear, mirrorlike bottomless pool.

And, as some cavern tours do, at a later point the guide douses all the lights. "There are only two places on Earth you can experience this total lack of light," guide Kate Stevens tells visitors. "That's at the bottom of the ocean, and inside a cave."

She also offers a tool for remembering the difference between a stalactite and a stalagmite: "A stalactite grows tight to the ceiling, whereas a stalagmite might grow up from the ground some day."

The range of natural colors attracts the eye as well. Stevens explains why: "The water in these caverns contains lots of minerals. Iron oxide in what we call 'cave onyx' is what makes it black. Manganese is also black, blue comes from zinc or cobalt, pinkish-orange represents iron oxide on its own, calcium carbonate provides a white color — and the green comes from either algae or moss, created by the artificial electric light shining on the water."

She explains that the caverns continue for about another quarter-mile under the mountain. The ceilings are lower, though, and the openings less passable. At the point where we pause for this discussion, we are told the Blue Ridge Parkway runs directly overhead, quite a distance up through mostly solid rock.

More than some caverns, Linville is damp inside, and it's quite likely that visitors will be dripped on at some point. Taller visitors will also spend some time along the path ducking overhead rocks.

It's also wise to be prepared with a light jacket or sweater for the half-hour underground. Inside Linville Caverns, the climate stays a steady 52 degrees year-round.

Of the East Coast caverns, Linville is not the largest or most fascinating. But if a visit to the central portion of the North Carolina mountains is on tap, Linville is a pleasant stop.

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