When it comes to powder, Jackson Hole still the peak

Jackson, Wyo. —- For 40 years, snagging a spot on Jackson Hole’s “First Tram” was one of Western skiing’s enduring rituals. Even though the lifts don’t open until 9 a.m., skiers and snowboarders traditionally started lining up very early to snare fresh powder. The ritual ended at the close of the 2005-06 ski season when the resort took the lift out of service.

It was a ritual for a reason that could be summed up in an equation: First Tram equals First Tracks. The tram that went into service during Jackson Hole’s inaugural season wasn’t America’s first, but it opened a serious, compelling and, yes, addictive mountain to some of the best skiers in the land —- those who could handle the most difficult terrain and most challenging conditions.

Each of the tram’s two boxy red cabins held just 52 skiers and their gear for the 12-minute ride to Rendezvous Mountain’s 10,450-foot summit. Do the math. A maximum of 390 skiers per hour got off the lift, braced against the wind, stepped into their bindings and dispersed to conquer a beast of a mountain that ranks as one of North America’s largest and most difficult.

During the past two winters, snow riders have made do with a daisy chain of chairlifts to ascend 4,139 vertical feet from Teton Village to the summit. On Dec. 20, the streamlined 100-passenger cars of the resort’s 21st-century tram will begin hauling skiers and riders along the same route as the original. Like the cars they replace, the new ones are bright red. The resort refers to this as its “Tram-formation.”

Jackson Hole: Wild

Ever since Jackson Hole burst on the American snow sports scene in 1966, those in the know have regarded Rendezvous Peak with awe, even reverence. After nearly a half-century, this big, raw ski mountain remains imbued with the mystique that comes with vertiginous terrain, prodigious snow and management’s disinclination to tame much of it with grooming or make it easy for a lot of people to reach.

A wild, white world spreads from the summit to the valley. The mountaintop is crowned by seven huge bowls. Steep, snowpacked chutes —- including the legendary Alta Chutes and the infamous Corbet’s Couloir —- are etched into cliff bands. Lower on the mountain, skiers and riders find powder lines threaded down steep-walled ridges. The bottom is hardly gentler than the top.

The “First Tram” ritual developed over time. In the early days, skiers took fresh powder for granted. More recently, they have had to stake their claim by getting up early and heading for the mountain. Consider it a rush for the white gold that untracked snow represents.

The ritual went like this: People started lining up early, often before 7 a.m., leaning their boards against the railing at the loading area and going somewhere to warm up and perhaps fuel up with a hot breakfast. Northern Wyoming, early on a winter morning, gets mighty cold, but lingering over coffee beyond 8 a.m. meant risking that precious spot in line —- and even risking having unattended skis tossed off the tram dock. No one with “Rendezvous Fever” wanted to take such a chance.

All the locals knew the ritual’s rules, but few visitors ever got up before daylight to participate.

It’s anybody’s guess how the new tram with nearly twice the capacity and one-third more speed will change the tradition.

Any visitor —- even the most timid beginner —- can look but not leap into the Rendezvous’ precipitous terrain. All it takes is a lift pass. Wait for a clear, snow-free day and get in line at the tram’s bottom station right in Teton Village. Disembark at the summit, take in the breathtaking view and ride back down again. Anyone who does is sure to get a spot by the window on the descent.

Off the slopes

Nonski activities abound in the area, including visits to two nearby national parks. A winter hayride into the heart of the National Elk Refuge is a memorable, up-close-and-personal look at a huge elk herd. The National Museum of Wildlife Art is a stunner for art and nature lovers. Activities as diverse as dogsledding, snowmobile tours, and photography and wildlife-viewing tours show the region’s wintry wonders.

Teton Village, once a small agglomeration of mostly faux-Alpine lodgings at the base of the tram, is now a small agglomeration of (mostly) luxury hotels and condominiums. The old town of Jackson, 12 miles away, is linked to the ski resort by a ski shuttle.

Because Jackson is the southern gateway to Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks, it offers abundant lodging to accommodate summer hordes. It has budget mom-and-pop motels, achingly charming B&Bs, modern motor inns and the historic and very distinguished Wort Hotel. The town plaza with its signature arches constructed of shed elk antlers is a Western landmark.

The downtown is also awash with restaurants, cowboy bars, hot clubs, art galleries and shops, shops, shops, but after a day in the rugged powder at Jackson Hole, you may well be too pooped to shop.

> Claire Walter is the author of “The Best Ski Resorts in America,” “Rocky Mountain Skiing” and “Skiing on a Budget.” Her blog is at http://travel-babel.blogspot.com.

IF YOU GO

ACCOMMODATIONS

Alpenhof Lodge. Traditional mountain inn awash with Bavarian warmth and charm. On-site restaurant and spa. Low-season rates, from $129, including breakfast. High-season, from $229, including breakfast. Packages available including a room-and-airfare package. Teton Village, 800-732-3244, 307-733-3242, www.alpenhoflodge.com/alpenhof.htm.

Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole. Luxury lodge. Most of the 128 rooms have a fireplace and/or balcony. Low-season rates from $275. Low-season bed-and-breakfast package from $315. January rates from $395. 7680 Granite Loop Road, Teton Village, 307-732-5000, www.fourseasons.com/jacksonhole.

Hotel Terra. Jackson Hole’s first eco-hotel is stylish and serene. Low-season from $119. Christmas/New Year holiday from $209. 3335 W. Village Road, Teton Village, 307-739-4000, 800-631-6281, www.hotelterrajacksonhole.com.

Snake River Lodge and Spa. Fine restaurant and top spa. Low-season rates from $149 plus a $25-per-day resort fee that includes parking and Internet access. January rates from $235. 7710 Granite Loop Road, Teton Village, 307-732-6000, http://snakeriverlodge.rockresorts.com.

Village Center Inn. Ski-in, ski-out accommodations include kitchens; even a one-bedroom apartment can sleep up to five. From $160. 3285 W. Village Drive, Teton Village, 307-733-3990.

Hostel-X. Informal classic. Private rooms and bathrooms, with daily housekeeping service. Communal refrigerator, freezer, microwave and toaster. Rates based on the number of people in a room. Two people, $109. Three or four people, $119. Teton Village, 307-733-3415, www.thehostel.us.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Jackson Hole Ski Resort, 307-733-2292; www.jacksonhole.com.

Central Reservations, Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce, 990 W. Broadway, 888-733-4005, 307-733-3316; www.jacksonholechamber.com.