Vietnamese specialties authentic and affordable

One thousand years of Chinese domination no doubt influenced the culture and cuisine of Vietnam. The use of chopsticks and cooking methods such as stir-frying are strong evidence. But this country that winds like a snake on the border of Southeast Asia and the South China Sea managed to retain mementos of the ancient civilizations that came before the Chinese, and many of its most beloved culinary habits survive within these delicate vestiges.

The practice of wrapping rice noodles, meats and herbs with lettuce or rice paper, the latter called banh trang cuon, is a delicate delight and one of the best of many pleasures to be found at Chateau de Saigon.

Owner and manager Jimmy Tran, who was born in the United States, has arrived on Buford Highway with his cousin, Sam. Both grew up in the restaurant industry, and they’ve opened their culinary suitcase to pull out a huge offering of Vietnamese specialties, from clay pot dishes of eggplant in a caramelized brown sauce to the varied goi —- salads. Those include lovely green mango and apple with large grilled shrimp, mint and crushed peanuts or green papaya with shreds of slightly salty beef jerky.

The restaurant is ambitious; Jimmy Tran is a 2001 graduate of Emory’s business school and gets much of his inspiration from his parents. Both from Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), they owned and worked in restaurants for most of his life. Many were Chinese buffets, and there are some Cantonese dishes on Chateau de Saigon’s menu to show for it.

Tran is young —- not yet 30 —- and has high hopes for pairing wines and beers with the delicate regional specialties that make up so much of what’s good about eating here: Vietnamese-style hot pots of seafood all cooked in broth at the table; clay pots of catfish and combinations of beef, chicken and seafood; even simple but standout dishes of grilled pork with rice.

The space has been meticulously woven into one of the new strip malls just north of Plaza Fiesta. A small sitting area is a gracious greeting room that fronts the large dining area, and tables are simply and lovingly set.

But the thing that makes this restaurant stand out from any other Vietnamese spot in the area is the banh trang cuon. Order the “grilled sampler”: Rice papers, a shallow bowl of water and an assortment of grilled meats of marinated pork, minced shrimp grilled around a baton of sugar cane (called chao tom) and la lot —- minced beef flavored brightly with lemon grass, then wrapped in pungent betel leaves —- will all be brought on platters to the table. With it comes fresh lettuce leaves, green apple, slices of carambola, vermicelli noodles, long-leaved Vietnamese cilantro and mint.

Then the party begins by dipping the rice paper into the water to soften, laying it flat on a plate and filling it with all of the above. Add delicately flavored fish sauce (nuoc cham) for dipping and things really get rolling. What a fun way to spend an evening. The rice papers will seem almost too fragile to hold the bounty brought to fill them, but everyone will have fun discovering that they are strong and flexible enough to hold just about any combination of ingredients.

“Fold the ends in first and wrap them like a burrito,” the seasoned waitresses will instruct.

And while the banh trang cuon will surely become the Trans’ signature dish, there are plenty of other reasons to sample Chateau de Saigon’s kitchen.

“Shaken beef,” a Vietnamese specialty that has become a favorite of Western tastes, is a simple stir- fry of filet mignon with green onions served over a shredded salad with salt, pepper and lime for dipping the strips of beef. And it’s so much more affordable here than elsewhere in town.

Vietnamese food is on the brink of becoming the area’s next big ethnic trend, and Chateau de Saigon is a good way to introduce yourself to its ethereal appeal. If you’re already familiar, consider it the next spot to visit on your list.

CHATEAU DE SAIGON

Overall rating: ***

Food: Vietnamese

Service: Everyone seems pleased to help with rice paper wraps and hot pots.

Price range: $$

Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover

Hours of operation: Open for lunch and dinner 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays- Saturdays

Best dishes: Clay-pot eggplant, rice paper wraps with la lot, goi of beef jerky, shaken beef

Vegetarian selections: Many of the dishes are vegetarian.

Children: Definitely

Parking: Adjacent lot

Reservations: For parties of five or more

Wheelchair access: Yes

Smoking: No

Noise level: Low

Patio: No

Takeout: Yes

Address, telephone: 4300 Buford Highway N.E., Suite 218, Atlanta, 404-929-0034

Web site: www.chateaudesaigon.com

Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. The price code represents a typical full-course meal for one excluding drinks.

KEY TO AJC RATINGS

***** Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.

**** Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.

*** Very good: Merits a drive if you’re looking for this kind of dining.

** Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit and miss.

* Fair: Food is more miss than hit.

Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.

WANT MORE VIETNAMESE?

> Nam, 931 Monroe Drive, Suite A-101, Atlanta. 404-541-9997, www.namrestaurant.com ****

> Co’m Vietnamese Grill, 4005-E Buford Highway, Atlanta. 404-320-0405, www.comgrill.com ***

> Co’m Vietnamese Grill Fusion, 5486 Chamblee Dunwoody Road, Atlanta, 770-512-7410, www.comgrill.com, not rated