IN SEARCH OF … / Sweet, fried … and addictive

It’s hard to imagine a world where a simple doughnut, the ubiquitous coffee companion, would roll its way past the diner door and become the hot new thing to eat. But it has —- with the help of these local spots where fried round things, with or without holes, are revered.

Sublime Doughnuts, not rated

535 10th St., Atlanta. 404-897-1801, www.myspace.com/sublimedoughnuts

Having lived in New England, where local doughnut shops are as sacred as the Boston Pops and the Patriots, I can see that Atlanta has never really had its own doughnut master. But Kamel Grant has broken the city’s sad streak. These are doughnuts. They should come with a warning label.

Duck’s Cosmic Kitchen **

111-D New St., East Decatur Station, Decatur. 404-371-8823,

Duck’s has become a favorite for lots of baked goodies, and its granulated-sugar-and-cinnamon-coated mini doughnuts are dangerously addictive. These cakey wonders come the size of a regular doughnut, too, but it’s the minis that will melt in your mouth. They’re also available in the pastry case at Dancing Goats, the hip coffee joint on East Ponce de Leon in downtown Decatur, across from Watershed.

Plaza Fiesta food court, not rated

4166 Buford Highway, Atlanta. 404-982-9138, www.plazafiesta.net

Journey inside this Hispanic wonderland on Buford Highway and head for the food court, where among vendors that serve tacos and gorditas, you’ll find churros, the scrumptious fried street food that’s like a long doughnut. Go for chocolate or dulce de lece. Trust me.

Holeman & Finch ***

2277 Peachtree Road, Suite B, Atlanta. 404-948-1175, www.holeman-finch.com.

You may want to fill up on souse or a burger with a house-made bun, but save room for this gastropub’s glazed doughnuts, sugared and stacked two to a plate. Better make it two orders —- you won’t want to share.

Krispy Kreme Doughnuts, not rated

Various metro Atlanta locations

Yes, these doughnuts are still that good. I don’t care that the shops were long ago franchised and the stock is publicly traded on the NYSE. Original glazed? Heck yeah, especially when the neon “Hot Doughnuts Now” sign is glowing. But there’s really nothing more satisfyingly seductive than a cream-filled Krispy Kreme.

Get into the conversation: Visit my blog at www.ajc.com/tabletalk. If your restaurant is new, closing or undergoing changes, or you have a food-related event, we want to hear from you. Send the information —- including your name, phone number, e-mail and Web site if you have one —- to mford@ajc.com.