A woman may reign at storied Italian winery

Empires have risen and fallen, plagues have gripped countrysides and religious reformations have swept through Europe.

Through it all, the Famiglia Antinori of Florence, Italy, has been making wine.

For 623 years —- starting more than two centuries before fellow Italian Galileo discovered Jupiter’s moons in 1610 —- Antinoris have been harvesting grapes, turning them into wine and selling their product.

“The Antinori family is remarkable,” says Carolyn Wente, vice chairman of Wente Vineyards in California, which has been making wine for 125 years. “Their achievement of maintaining a family business that continues to flourish is a reflection of how each generation was able to pass on the passion for their business, mixing tradition with innovation. They are an inspiration for my family.”

What makes the current transfer of power from the 25th to the 26th generation different is that for the first time, the vineyard soon could be led by a woman.

The current CEO, the Marchese Piero Antinori, has three daughters —- Albiera, Allegra and Alessia. This posed succession problems. In fact, the senior Antinori was so unsure that his daughters would want to take the reins that he sold a 49 percent stake in the company to the English beer-making company Whitbread in 1988. The marriage lasted merely three years as it became clear that generazioni 26 would join their father, who turns 70 next year. At great cost, Piero bought back Whitbread’s shares.

“There is a new game we are all practicing,” said Alessia of the current generation of women. “Our father brought us up to participate in the business if we wanted to. This would have not been an option to previous generations [of women], who took care of the children and the household.”

Alessia hosted a dinner at Antica Posta restaurant during an Atlanta visit in November. The 32-year-old, the youngest of the three daughters, is moving to New York to monitor U.S. sales and to gain a better understanding of the important American market.

Independent-minded women in the wine industry are still novel in Italy. “I was one of only two women in my class,” Alessia said of her time at the Agricultural University of Milan, where she trained to be a winemaker. It is not clear if Alessia —- who not only makes wine, but also has a hand in marketing —- or her sisters will succeed their father as CEO. Albiera, 43, heads up communications. Allegra, 37, manages hospitality at the winery and the Cantinetta Antinori restaurants in Florence; Vienna, Austria; Zurich, Switzerland; and Moscow.

Alessia is aware that every generation contributes something to the business. Her father’s accomplishments will be a challenge to match, however. He was one of the first of the Super Tuscan winemakers, who successfully challenged the French for a place among the world’s most collectible —- and expensive —- wines, such as tignanello, solaia and guado al tasso. He bought and improved key properties in and around Tuscany. He also developed winemaking and distribution partnerships in Hungary, California’s Napa Valley, Chile and Washington state.

Not that there aren’t areas where Alessia’s experience could prove beneficial to the regions her father has moved into, such as partnering with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington.

“They are good at marketing on certain wines, especially those in the midrange,” she said. “I believe we can help them with the high-range wines. With the high-end wines, like tignanello and solia, it is more about positioning, not about more volume. We want to be in the better places, and not only Italian restaurants. That, I can do. I know where I want to be seen or not be seen.”

When asked if she thought an American winemaking dynasty could stand the test of centuries, she shook her head no. “In Italy, we don’t divorce. I don’t know if it is a bad or good thing. I’m not sure if Americans have the patience to go on and on for many generations. In Italy, it is more common, but sometimes we have to fight for it a little more to continue on. Americans can more easily give up something when they run into problems, but they have no problem picking up and starting all over again. We Italians quit, but when we quit, we don’t restart so easy. That’s what I love about America.”

Gil Kulers is a certified wine educator with the Society of Wine Educators and teaches in-home wine classes. You can reach him at gil.kulers@winekulers.com.

WINE RECOMMENDATIONS

2003 Badia A Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva, Italy

$50

Two thumbs up

Pleasant aromas of smoke, black cherry, new leather and candied apple. Very elegant, smooth flavors of red berries, nutmeg and green almond.

2007 Castello della Sala Bramito del Cervo Chardonnay, Umbria, Italy

$20

Two thumbs way up

Even chardonnay haters will love this wine’s creamy, honeysuckle, vanilla and toasted almond aromas. It has flavors of mandarin orange, cream soda and green apple, with a touch of toasted oak. Great finesse and balance.

2003 Marchese Antinori Riserva Chianti Classico, Italy

$35

Two thumbs way up

Seductive aromas of new car leather, nutmeg and bright red cherry. Lovely flavors of black cherry, plum and black licorice, with spicy black pepper notes at the end. Pretty full-bodied for a chianti. Better after two hours in the glass.

2006 Peppoli Chianti Classico, Italy

$25

Two thumbs way up

Rich, complex aromas of blackberry, raspberry and smoky, roasted meat. Makes you hungry. Silky smooth on the palate, with flavors of earthy red berries, dusty dry cherry and lightly bitter chocolate.

Note: Wines are rated on a scale ranging from thumbs down, one thumb mostly up, one thumb up, two thumbs up, two thumbs way up and golden thumb award. These are suggested retail prices as provided by the winery, one of its agents or a local distributor.