LILBURN: Restaurant makeover improves reputation

The place that helped spur Lilburn’s ban on karaoke has been singing a new tune these days.

The former Sports Fan Bar and Grill is now a family-oriented restaurant —- no karaoke or cards, but you do get a 10 percent discount on the Sunday buffet if you bring in a church bulletin. It’s just what city officials wanted.

“It had a colorful past,” said Jennifer Jack-Wunder, managing partner of Riverstone Steakhouse, the new occupant, just south of Beaver Ruin Road on Lawrenceville Highway. “From what the police were telling me there were drug problems, sale and usage of drugs. So we wanted to bring something nicer to the community, so we decided to revamp it.”

The Sports Fan Bar and Grill became the epicenter of a controversy early last year when city officials moved to restrict entertainment, including karaoke, cards, trivia and other games in establishments that serve alcohol. The City Council expressed its belief then that bars attract crime, and the Sports Fan —- which closed in March —- was a bar masquerading as a restaurant. The council action drew a flurry of commentary on blogs and in print from across the area, mostly accusing the city of outlawing fun.

Lilburn Mayor Diana Preston said the city is thoroughly pleased with what the new restaurant has brought to the community.

“The site there has a little bit of baggage,” said Preston, who was a council member during the karaoke controversy. “They’re doing everything right. It’s a tough economy, but they’ve got a real good product. I’ve eaten over there several times. We’ve joined friends for their wine dinner night.”

Jack-Wunder said she wanted to erase the location’s reputation by instilling a family-friendly atmosphere with great food at affordable prices.

“When we did open the doors,” she said, “we decided that, because of the colorful past, the concept was that we had to change that image and do something completely different.”

The first step was to introduce herself to the business community, so Jack-Wunder invited the Lilburn Business Association to hold one of its luncheons at Riverstone. She comped the whole affair. Next, she got involved to sponsor the local Dream House for children, Lilburn Idol competition and other community causes.

“The main reason wasn’t for the donations,” she said. “It was to let them know this is different than the Sports Fan Bar and Grill. This is a place for when you come in here, we know you.”

The restaurant, which opened in May, is the culmination of Jack-Wunder’s more than 25 years in the business.

She spent her early years working inside the food service business, opening restaurants for Darden Restaurants, owners of Red Lobster, Olive Garden and other chains.

“I’ve always been passionate about people and food,” she said. “I love to eat. I love to talk to people.”

She got out of the corporate world to open her own consulting firm to help people whose dream it was to run their own restaurant. Eventually, she felt she was missing out.

When she was approached by chief investor Amil Yadav, a former Lilburn resident, to make something of the property, she jumped at the chance.

It’s a bit of a family affair. Husband Paul, a mechanic by trade, can host or bus tables along with their son and daughter.

Jack-Wunder runs specials all the time, and her menu ranges from $5.99 lunch deals to the 16-ounce Black Angus rib-eye for $22.95. There is jazz on Wednesday nights and a monthly wine and beer dinner featuring a five-course meal.

They even have cheese sticks, Parker’s Gourmet Fried Cheese to be exact.

It was a delicacy Jackson-Wunder whipped up one day when 16-year-old son Parker Bennett was in with his mother. The young Bennett asked about cheese sticks. They weren’t on the menu.

“We had fresh mozzarella and we had Italian bread crumbs,” Jack-Wunder said. “And I thought, ‘Why couldn’t we do cheese sticks?’ So, I went back there and made them. When I brought them out, they were blown away.”

Jack-Wunder said she wants to be known as a businesswoman who listens to the customers and responds to their culinary tastes.

Parker’s Gourmet Fried Cheese is one example.

“I want people to see that and go, ‘You know what, they’re not just opening a restaurant here to make some money. They’re actually trying to do a good thing.’ “