DEL.ICIO.USHEALTHY EATING
Simple food can taste just great
For The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Wednesday, January 07, 2009
The pummeled economy may be putting a pinch into what we can afford to enjoy in 2009, but there can be a silver lining in the return to simpler times, especially for food lovers interested in simply great food.
It turns out that one of the taste trends for 2009 includes a streamlined approach to enjoying foods without a lot of complicated sauces or sides. New York chef Tom Colicchio, who recently brought his Craft restaurant concept to Atlanta at The Mansion on Peachtree, is recognized as a leader of this food philosophy,
Craft restaurant
The roasted beet salad at Craft is a colorful combination of red, golden, chiogas and candy stripes tossed with a simple vinaigrette of olive oil, red wine vinegar, shallots and Dijon mustard.
More healthy eating links
“I wanted less bells and whistles with a stripped down approach where I actually took ingredients away from a dish to make it better.”
The menu at Craft Atlanta and Craftbar (where most small dishes are under $15 and main plates under $25) illustrates the theme that good value comes from carefully prepared high-quality ingredients.
Chef de cuisine Kevin Maxey uses as many locally produced and organic items as possible and respects the unique flavors and textures of each component from the roasted scallops to the marinated beets. This attention to the natural goodness of foods is a natural fit for eating healthier and doing away with unnecessary extra ingredients that add cost and calories.
Colicchio says it’s the kind of awareness that many Americans gain when they travel to countries where foods have always been prepared simply.
“What’s amazing is that when people go to Italy, love the food and ask ‘what did they do to this dish?’ The answer is nothing! If it’s great fish, for instance, you don’t need to cover it with sauce.”
Taking restaurant
recipes home
The January issue of Gourmet magazine reveals a return to simpler tastes, too, with spaghetti and meatballs on the cover. Ruth Reichl, the editor-in-chief of Gourmet, sees a return to home cooking as a side effect of the recession, but there’s reader demand for recipes that reflect an acquired taste for chef quality cuisine prepared healthfully.
“People want to start cooking again, but this time it’s different from the last recession,” Reichl says. “We have so many food-savvy people who’ve enjoyed dining out. And we’re eating differently now with less butter, less oil and more vegetables.”
Also under Reichl’s editorial umbrella, the third season of PBS’ award-winning television series, “Gourmet’s Diary of a Foodie,” (premiering Jan. 24 on public television stations) addresses the new definition of taste meets health, too. Episodes focus on sustainable seafood, food co-ops and the natural bounty of Hawaii’s farms.
Basics with a twist
While we’ll still be dining out in 2009, there will be increased demand on chefs to make it worth our while and wallets when we choose a night on the town. The gimmicks will go.
Even Atlanta’s molecular gastronomy guru Richard Blais told Facebook friends he was selling some of his gourmet gadgetry ( I’m a Friend) and has opened Flip, a burger place. And he’s right on trend for the New Year, because these burgers are made with the best ingredients and served along side carefully crafted fries and even sweet potato ‘tater-tots.”
Don’t worry, Blais hasn’t gone completely basic. His not-to-be missed smoked mayonnaise is made with a powdered smoke product he gets from a smokehouse in Indiana. And you can still have fun with liquid nitrogen milkshakes. My favorite shake comes with roasted mini-marshmallows on top.
So whether you’re dining out or cooking in, small indulgences, simply delicious ingredients and respectfully prepared dishes will be the best foods and healthiest way of eating in 2009.
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