DEL.ICIO.USOne-tank trip: Northern Alabama
Bask in a spiritual glow
For the AJC
Sunday, May 17, 2009
In northern Alabama, personal faith is as much a part of a person’s identity as his or her name and hometown. It’s not uncommon to hear Alabamians describe one another as a Baptist from Tuscumbia or a Methodist from Decatur. This is the Bible Belt, after all.
The Hallelujah Trail, a self-guided driving tour of 32 historical churches scattered throughout 16 counties, celebrates North Alabama’s spiritual heritage and gives visitors insight into the beliefs and values that have shaped the culture in this corner of the Deep South.
AJC Special
One of the highlights of St. John’s Episcopal Church, built in 1893 in Decatur, Ala., is the stained-glass windows.
AJC Special
Corinth Church in Double Springs, Ala., which has no electricity or indoor plumbing, has about 45 regular attendees.
Every church on the trail is at least 100 years old, stands on its original site, and is still active today. These landmark churches range from the rustic to the majestic. What they all have in common is that generations of Alabamians have seen them as cornerstones of their communities and an integral part of their lives.
Hallelujah Trail highlights
» St. John’s Episcopal Church-Decatur
For a tour of St. John’s Episcopal Church in Decatur, it would be hard to find a more qualified guide than Squee Bailey. She was baptized at the white marble font in the sanctuary as an infant, was walked down the aisle flanked by glowing stained-glass windows (a highlight of the church) on her wedding day and expects that her funeral will be at St. John’s just as her father’s and her grandfather’s before her.
As Bailey leads visitors through the bright red doors to the sanctuary, she explains that this Gothic church, built in 1893, didn’t always face east. Until 1940, the church was a simple wood frame structure that faced north, but it was turned to face east in the manner of English parish churches. To further emulate English churches, the wood exterior was covered in limestone, giving the previously modest church a certain opulence to which some in the congregation objected. “There was quite a bit of controversy about it,” Bailey said. “Some people really liked the little frame church.”
» Corinth Church
The congregation at Corinth Church in Double Springs doesn’t focus much on what its modest, one-room church lacks but on what it offers. There’s no electricity at this Baptist church, but sunlight streams in through large windows and reflects off the blond pine walls and pews, so it’s brightly lit. There’s no running water; a trip to the outhouse requires a walk through a tranquil wooded area, just as it did for worshippers back in the 1850s when the church was built. There’s no piano, but Nancy Curley, one of about 45 regular attendees, said the congregation doesn’t feel it needs one.
“With wood on the floor and ceiling, it’s almost perfect acoustics,” Curley said. “It’s like singing in the shower.”
The little country church was abandoned for approximately 20 years, but a small group of worshippers restarted services six years ago. Campers from nearby Corinth Recreation Area at Bankhead National Forest often attend services, so part of the joy of worshipping at Corinth Church is the opportunity for fellowship with people from all over the world from diverse religious backgrounds.
» First Presbyterian Church-Tuscumbia
Helen Adams Keller, who was left blind and deaf by a childhood illness, could not appreciate the Georgian Gothic architecture of the First Presbyterian Church in Tuscumbia that she attended as a child, nor could she hear the inspiring hymns sung by the congregation. But she opened her heart to God’s word and grew into a woman of great faith, which helped give her the courage and determination to overcome physical challenges. Her incredible story remains an inspiration.
Keller once said, “Life without faith is uneasy, timorous, and wholly spent in running away from misfortunes which are in the nature of things inescapable.”
A pilgrimage to the church that laid the foundation for Keller’s religious beliefs is often high on the list for those exploring the Hallelujah Trail.
Keller Johnson Thompson, a descendant of the Keller family, has been a member her entire life and has grown up hearing stories about her famous ancestor. She recounts a humorous tale her grandmother told her about Helen’s baptism in 1880.
“Helen was actually supposed to be named Helen Everett,” Thompson said, “but her father [Arthur] got so confused or nervous at the baptism, that he told the preacher her name was Helen Adams, so Helen Adams just stuck.”
Thompson said attending the church where generations of her family have had their lives enhanced through worship, makes her “joyous and glad” that she can carry on the tradition through her own children.
The church is also noteworthy because it was organized in 1824, making it the oldest Presbyterian church in continuous use in Alabama.
An unusual architectural feature is the original wraparound slave gallery that is now used as balcony seating.
If you go
For a complete list of Hallelujah Trail churches, visit: www.northalabama.org
First Presbyterian Church 103 N. Broad St. Tuscumbia, AL 35674; 256-383-2412; www.tuscumbiapres.com
Corinth Church 2540 County Road 57, Double Springs, AL 35553; The church is surrounded by Bankhead National Forest.
Pine Torch Church 1955 County Road 70, Moulton, AL 35650; 256-974-1658; Those visiting Corinth Church should also stop by Pine Torch Church, which is in Bankhead National Forest.
St. John’s Episcopal Church 202 Gordon Drive S.E., Decatur, AL 35601; 256-353-9615; www.stjohnsdecatur.org
Where to stay: The Limestone House 601 N. Wood Ave., Florence, AL 35630; 256-765-0365; www.thelimestonehouse.com. Rates: $100-$115. This Georgian Revival-style B&B is in Florence’s historic district.
Marriott Shoals Hotel & Spa 800 Cox Creek Parkway South, Florence, AL 35630; 1-800-593-6450. Rates: $115-$339
Holiday Inn Hotel and Suites 1101 Sixth Ave. N.E., Decatur, AL 35601; 1-800-553-3150; www.hidecaturalabama.com. Rates: $109.99-$149.99
Where to eat: Ricatoni’s Italian Grill 107 N. Court St., Florence, AL 35630; 256-718-1002; www.ricatonivalentino.com. Entrees $10-$15
On the Rocks 110 N. Court St., Florence, AL 35630; 256-760-2212; www.florenceontherocks.com. Entrees: $9.99-$15.99
Cafe 113 113 Grant St. S.E., Decatur, AL 35601; 256-351-1400; www.cafe113.com. Serves seafood, pasta and steak. Open for dinner only. Entrees $21-$35
Other North Alabama attractions: Helen Keller’s Birthplace and Home 300 W.N. Commons, Tuscumbia, AL 35674; 1-888-329-2124; www.helenkellerbirthplace.org
Ave Maria Grotto 1600 St. Bernard Ave., Cullman, AL 35055; 1-800-722-0999; www.stbernardabbey.com
.JPG)
-1.JPG)
Services »
