> GOTTA HAVE: Croque Monsieur sandwich

> SERVED BY: Pastis

> WHERE: 936 Canton St., Roswell

> HOW IT'S MADE: Even a solid sandwich can ease the soul. But Pastis takes it a step further, hitting lunchtime comfort food on the nose. Executive chef Brian Obermeyer ranks this sammy, popularized in France during the early 1900s, as one of the restaurant's hottest lunchtime picks. The kitchen staff slaps thinly sliced ham and gruyere cheese between two slices of brioche. Each side is seared in butter until golden. Obermeyer and company then remove the sandwich from the pan and cover it in a rich, cozy blanket of bechamel sauce. It then gets broiled until brown. "You eat one, and you're not going to want to eat anything in a while," Obermeyer said. "It's very filling." The sandwich is on both the lunch and Sunday brunch menus.

> WHAT ELSE: Cruising for an appetizer with variety? Consider the Farmhouse Plate, an assemblage of pates, brie, sausage, prosciutto, roasted red peppers, cornichons and marinated olives. Toast points and spicy Dijon mustard come on the side. Come dinnertime, steak lovers may think about slicing into the Bistro Pastis. This flavorful sliver of pan-fried rib eye packs a garlic butter punch. Killer-thin homemade fries and a salad join the meal.

> HOURS: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Sundays; dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5-10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

> CONTACT INFO: 770-640-3870, www.roswellpastis.com.

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