Good wine is more than alcohol percentage

“I’m not arguing for high alcohol,” he said during a recent visit to Atlanta. “It’s not only about the alcohol. People talk about European wines being so low in alcohol, and why can’t [California vintners] make wines like that. If you were making wine in France in ‘45, ‘47, ‘49, ‘29, ‘59, ‘61 or ‘82, you’d have vintages that all had alcohol levels that were quite high — generally over 14.5 percent.”

Peterson, who adores French wines, is unafraid to speak the dirty little secret held by California winemakers (and vehemently denied by the French): Every year is an epic vintage year in California because of its ample sunshine and powerful Pacific Ocean. So why not make epic wine every year with the ingredients offered by Mother Nature?

Because it’s a complicated process for someone who has spent a lifetime making zinfandel, especially when talking about alcohol levels. Zinfandel grapes ripen unevenly. At harvest, some look like raisins; others like plump, juicy grapes; and some are tiny, tart berries — sometimes all in the same bunch. Some winemakers wait until all the grapes catch up to the raisins or they pick out the unripe berries.

“When you do this, you go clear over to the end of the scale with residual sugar [in the wines] or 17 percent alcohol wines,” he said, explaining that the concentrated sugars in the raisins can greatly increase the alcohol content. Peterson’s artistry comes in part from knowing when he has the right balance of under and overripe grapes. The resulting wine typically lands in the mid-15 percent alcohol range, nothing you’d mistake for a wimpy wine, but not suffering from EAS either.

The other confounding issue Peterson has: Those persnickety wine writers, who plead for lower alcohol levels, yet reward alcoholic bombs with high scores. Peterson admits he’s benefited from the schizophrenic wine press. In fact, he could hang his very survival on a 1984 visit by the influential wine critic Robert Parker.

Long-haired, grungy and just back from a ski trip, Peterson caught Parker in the driveway of Peterson’s rundown Sonoma County, Calif., winery, which Parker described as a “tin shack.” Thoroughly unprepared, Peterson rinsed out some glasses and they tasted the 1982 and 1983 vintages.

“He tasted my Sangiacomo chard and called it the ‘reddest chard he ever tasted,’ ” Peterson said. More importantly, Parker blessed Peterson’s zinfandels.

“He put me on the map,” Peterson said. “I was grateful and at the time I really needed the mention.”

At the time, Peterson — who was working in the laboratory of Sonoma Valley Hospital — was not quite paying the bills at the winery and his investors were understandably edgy. But even with the initial boost from Parker, he still needed some help.

“You need to make a white zin,” Peterson recalled one of the investors saying. “I said: ‘You are out of your mind!’ Then he said that I had better think of something because [the investors] won’t be there forever.”

Peterson put together an inexpensive red zinfandel sourced from various sites in Sonoma. He called it his “cash-flow wine.” He made 1,500 cases and called it Vintners Blend.

It immediately sold out. In 1985, Peterson tripled the volume. It, too, sold out immediately. And while Peterson never intended to make one of the world’s most popular red zinfandels, he did. Last year, Ravenswood produced 500,000 cases of Vintners Blend. His dream — to craft small quantities of unique wines from select vineyards — did not drown in the immense volumes of Vintners Blend, however. As fate would have it, the more generic zinfandels he made, the better able he was to keep his single-vineyard winemaking endeavors afloat, keeping investors happy.

Those investors were made extremely happy in 2001 when the world’s largest wine company, Constellation Brands, bought Ravenswood for $148 million. One of Peterson’s stipulations was that he remain as the winemaker. Even at 54, with the distinguished title of senior vice president, the grungy, hippie inside still wanted to make single-vineyard zinfandels.

And that he does. Peterson makes six vineyard-designated wines from locations in Northern California, some dating to the 19th century. And while he doesn’t need the money, he remains the self-described “geeky little winemaker” trying to show people that big wines with nearly 16 percent alcohol can still have the finesse of a 1961 bordeaux.

Beyond the coaxing from wine writers, Peterson speculates on how California winemakers got on this tangent of making wines bigger for the sake of being bigger.

“The truth of the matter is that there are wines being made now that could not be made years ago due to the current technology,” Peterson said. The specialized yeasts and technical processes have proved irresistible for curious winemakers. Couple that with positive reviews and impressive sales and you have an industry hooked on high-alcohol wines.

“These wines have 5 grams of residual sugar and are steeped in new oak,” Peterson said. “They have a blast of flavor, but are not particularly pleasant to drink. They have become the giant Hummers of the wine industry. They’re ridiculous and absurd.”

Peterson’s wines may share the same high-alcohol label, but he is quick to add that along with the alcohol comes unique, bold flavors and sufficient acidity that produces a balanced wine. Certainly not wimpy in the alcohol department, but nothing Peterson makes apologies for.

WINE RECOMMENDATIONS

2006 Ravenswood Big River Zinfandel, Alexander Valley, Calif.

• $35

• Two thumbs way up

• Amazing aromas of black cherry and mincemeat pie. Brooding flavors of dark brown sugar, brandy-soaked raisins, dry cherry and ripe plums. Wonderfully balanced and enjoyable despite the 15.7 percent alcohol.

2006 Ravenswood Old Hill Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley, Calif.

• $60

• Two thumbs way up

• Concentrated floral aromas, especially lavender, with a note of dry cherry. Anise-laced cedar flavors, with subtle blueberry and cherry notes. The cedar faded after two hours leaving berries and floral qualities.

2006 Ravenswood Dickerson Zinfandel, Napa Valley, Calif.

• $35

• Two thumbs way up

• Smells like dark chocolate-covered cherries in a cedar box. Absolutely delicious black cherry and plum flavors mixed with cinnamon, cocoa and caramel cream.

2006 Ravenswood Barricia Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley, Calif.

• $35

• Two thumbs up

• Aromas of black cherry brandy and lilacs, intense but not overpowering. Smooth flavors of chocolate-covered black cherries, with spicy notes of black licorice, nutmeg and caramel.

2006 Ravenswood Belloni Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Calif.

• $35

• Two thumbs up

• Aromas of blueberry, dark berries and a touch of smoky, black licorice. Complex flavors of spicy cinnamon, black licorice, black cherry and blackberry cobbler, with cocoa on the finish.

2006 Ravenswood Teldeschi Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Calif.

• $35

• Two thumbs up

• Aromas were a little hot, with aromas of cherry brandy. Black cherry, dark chocolate, toffee. Tight and harsh at the beginning, it mellowed nicely after two hours.

Note: Wines are rated on a scale ranging from thumbs down, one thumb mostly up, one thumb up, two thumbs up, two thumbs way up and golden thumb award. These are suggested retail prices as provided by the winery, one of its agents or a local distributor.

Calling all Georgia wine lovers

Do you have an interesting story about your experiences with Georgia wines or Georgia wine country? If so, I want to hear about them for an upcoming column. Send your responses to gil.kulers@winekulers.com.