Oyster lovers may argue about whether a Beausoleil or Kumamoto tastes best, or whether it's possible to get a genuine Blue Point anymore.

The merits of Eastern oysters vs. Pacific, or mignonette vs. cocktail sauce — all are sure to stir up debate.

Jonas Ingman/iStockphoto.com (ENLARGE)

Oyster on the half shell.

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There's no arguing with the best time to eat oysters, though: now.

Whether raw or cooked, oysters are at their finest in winter, firm, flavorful and meaty. They're far less likely, too, to harbor bacteria that can be deadly to some high-risk groups.

Taste and tradition make oysters a must-have for many holiday celebrations, from the oyster roasts of the Lowcountry to the stews found on Christmas Eve tables across America. Scalloped oysters, oyster pie and oyster dressing are favorites at Thanksgiving and Christmas. Oysters on the half shell, eaten raw or baked in rich cream sauces, help ring in the new year.

Once cheap and plentiful, oysters signaled the arrival of winter because temperatures were cold enough to allow them to be shipped long distances from the coast. In the 19th century, families might order a barrel shipped by train or wagon that would arrive in time for Thanksgiving, says Jon Rowley, a marketing consultant who specializes in oysters.

They'd find many other ways besides dressing to use their stock in the next few weeks: deviled or fried, drizzled with butter and bacon or caressed by cream. Oysters in the shell can live out of water for two weeks; some from the coldest waters can last even longer.

The days of cheap oysters by the barrel are gone, but our love for them remains. A pint, shucked, costs $9 to $13 in metro grocery stores. A dozen live ones will set you back $7 to $27, depending on whether the oyster comes from the Gulf Coast or must travel thousands of miles to reach local seafood counters.

Even less expensive standbys like Gulf oysters cost more this year, and they may be harder to find. The lingering effects of hurricanes Katrina and Rita have cut supplies of Southern oysters, and the price has doubled, says Robert Pidgeon, director of purchasing for Inland Seafood, an Atlanta-based distributor.

Oyster lovers know that like wine, coffee or chocolate, oysters reflect their growing environment in how they taste: briny, mineral, buttery or sweet. Sampling the offerings at a well-stocked restaurant raw bar, like those at Oceanaire or McCormick & Schmick's, is a good way to settle on a favorite. Even if a seafood market doesn't stock your preferred oyster, many can order it from their distributor with a day's notice.

Some of those taste nuances vanish in cooked oysters, although the difference between a mild oyster and a strong one is still obvious in delicate stews and casseroles.

Pidgeon prefers Beausoleils and smaller Kumamotos for eating raw. For cooking, he recommends Chesapeake Bay or Gulf of Mexico shellfish, because they're usually milder and less expensive.

Rowley, who works with restaurants and a West Coast shellfish farm, is partial to any oyster that's freshly harvested, in season, nicely shucked and from clean waters.

With a dozen or more varieties available — including Apalachicolas from Florida, Belons from Maine and Olympias from Washington — they're easier than ever to find. There's even a pasteurized oyster for those concerned about eating raw shellfish.

Winter is here, and the world is our oyster.

PAIRING OYSTERS WITH...

Crisp, dry white wines are a good match for oysters, along with beer and sparkling wines.

Need a few names? Check out the list of winners of the 2006 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition, which evaluated West Coast wines for their compatibility with Kumamoto oysters on the half shell. Except where indicated, all are the 2005 vintage.

• Blackstone Winery Monterey County Pinot grigio
• Dry Creek Vineyard Dry chenin blanc
• Geyser Peak Sauvignon blanc
• Guenoc Sauvignon blanc
• Kathryn Kennedy Winery
Sauvignon blanc
• Kelson Creek Winery
Sauvignon blanc
• Kenwood Sonoma Sauvignon blanc
• Kunde Estate Winery & Vineyards Magnolia Lane Sauvignon blanc
• Wattle Creek '04 Sauvignon blanc
• Willamette Valley Vineyards
Pinot gris