Holiday tables get a boost from oysters, from a warming but luxurious bowl of rich stew to kick off a Christmas Eve feast, to a party buffet with briny delights on the half shell.

Longing for an oyster roast without digging up the backyard? Try grilled oysters, which roast neatly outside without the need for shovels, metal grates and wet burlap sacks.

Make sure to buy shellfish from a reputable dealer. If buying shucked oysters for cooking, look for bite-size ones to avoid cutting the oyster. Some Pacific oysters sold shucked by the pint are too large to be eaten comfortably on a soup spoon, even those labeled "extra small." We preferred the smaller size and milder flavor of Gulf of Mexico oysters in stew and dressing recipes.

When buying shucked oysters for testing the recipes, we hit a shortage at several supermarket chains. It's a good idea to call before making a special trip; also consider picking up what you need in advance, since shucked oysters can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Some supermarkets restock daily; one told us it would take three days to get in more oysters.

Classic Mignonette Sauce

Makes about 1/2 cup, enough for 24-36 oysters
Hands on: 5 minutes
Total time: 5 minutes

This sauce is classic for freshly shucked oysters. The acidic blend is a perfect counterpoint to the briny liquor. Make sure to use the freshest, coldest oysters when serving them raw on the half shell.

1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots
2 teaspoons coarsely ground white or black
pepper

In a bowl, combine vinegar, shallots and pepper. Serve alongside or spoon 1/2-1 teaspoonful on each oyster.

Per teaspoon: 5 calories (percent of calories from fat, 2), trace protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, no fiber, trace fat (no saturated), no cholesterol, trace sodium.

Grilled Oysters With Mango Pico de Gallo and Red Chile Horseradish

4 servings
Hands on: 25 minutes
Total time: 50 or more minutes

Because the oysters cook for only a few minutes, get the garnishes ready before you put the shells on the grill. The Mango Pico de Gallo and the Red Chile Horseradish are hot and sweet on your tongue. The mango provides just the right cooling sensation for the horseradish. The oysters make a "popping" sound when cooked. While they don't open fully, they pop just enough to easily wedge them open.

For the Mango Pico de Gallo:
1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted and finely diced
1/4 small red onion, finely diced, or to taste
1/2-1 jalapeño, seeded and finely diced, or to taste
Juice of 1 lime
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
2 teaspoons honey
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Red Chile Horseradish:
1/4 cup prepared horseradish, drained
1 tablespoon ancho chile powder

32 oysters, such as Blue Point or Malpeque, scrubbed

To prepare Mango Pico de Gallo: In a bowl, combine mango, onion, jalapeño, lime juice, olive oil, cilantro, honey, salt and pepper. Let sit at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes.

To prepare Red Chile Horseradish: In a bowl, stir together the horseradish and chile powder.

To prepare the oysters: Heat the grill to high. Place the oysters directly on the grates of the grill, close the cover and cook until all the oysters have opened slightly, 4 to 6 minutes. You will still need to pry them open with a knife or shucker. Discard any that will not open easily.

Top each oyster with 1 teaspoon Mango Pico de Gallo and 1/4 teaspoon Red Chile Horseradish. Serve hot.

— Adapted from "Bobby Flay's Grilling for Life"

by Bobby Flay (Scribner, $22)

Per serving: 140 calories (percent of calories from fat, 34), 6 grams protein, 19 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 6 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 37 milligrams cholesterol, 261 milligrams sodium.

Baked Oysters With Bacon, Spinach

and Bread Crumbs

6 servings
Hands on: 1 hour, 30 minutes (includes shucking)
Total time: 1 hour, 40 minutes

Not all oysters bake in a heavy cream sauce. These oysters bake with a delicious stuffinglike topping. Layer them on a bed of rock salt during cooking. You will probably have extra topping (if you can control yourself while "tasting" during preparation, since it is so good!). You can also substitute watercress or a mixture of green herbs and lettuces for the spinach.

1 (4-pound) box rock salt or coarse kosher salt
30 oysters on the half shell, freshly shucked
2 pounds fresh spinach or 3 (10-ounce) bags
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 ounces slab bacon, finely diced, or 3 strips thick-cut bacon, finely diced
2 leeks, white parts only, cleaned, quartered and thinly sliced
1 shallot, quartered and sliced
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
2 lemons, 1 zested and juiced, the other cut into 6 wedges
1 day-old baguette, crust trimmed and coarsely ground in food processor (about 3 cups bread crumbs)
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1 scrape nutmeg (about 1/8 teaspoon)
Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with sides with rock or kosher salt. Set the oysters in their half shells on the salt.

Meanwhile, fill a large saucepan 3/4 full of water. Season generously with kosher salt and bring to a boil. Drop the spinach into the water for 30 seconds. Drain and plunge into a bowl of ice water. Remove and squeeze dry. Finely chop and set aside.

In a large skillet over medium heat, add the oil. Add the bacon and sauté until cooked only halfway. Remove from the pan. In the same pan over low heat, sauté the leeks, shallot and garlic until softened. Transfer to a bowl and add spinach, bacon, lemon juice and zest, bread crumbs, butter, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Stir, taste and adjust seasonings.

Spoon the mixture onto the oysters, trying not to compress, but just loosely covering them. Place on the top shelf of the oven and bake for 6 to 8 minutes, or until golden.

Carefully transfer the oyster to plates. Serve with a lemon wedge.

— Adapted from "One Fish, Two Fish, Crawfish, Bluefish"

by Carole C. Baldwin (Smithsonian, $35)

Per serving: 353 calories (percent of calories from fat, 48), 12 grams protein, 35 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 19 grams fat (9 grams saturated), 56 milligrams cholesterol, 680 milligrams sodium.

Oysters Kathryn

4 servings
Hands on: 45 minutes (includes shucking)
Total time: 1 hour, 30 minutes

This elegant, creamy filling doesn't feel too heavy or overwhelm the oyster.

1 egg
1 (7.8-ounce) can artichoke hearts or 1/2 (14-ounce) can, drained and finely chopped
3/4 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup unseasoned bread crumbs
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh basil, optional
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 (4-pound) box rock salt or coarse kosher salt
24 oysters on the half shell, freshly shucked
2 lemons, cut in half, optional

In a bowl, beat the egg. Add the artichoke hearts, cream, bread crumbs, cheese, lemon juice, garlic, basil, salt and pepper. Cover and chill for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with sides with rock or kosher salt. Set the oysters in their half shells on the salt.

Top each with a heaping tablespoon of topping. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, or until well-browned.

Carefully transfer the oysters to plates. Serve with a lemon wedge.

— Adapted from "One Fish, Two Fish, Crawfish, Bluefish"

by Carole C. Baldwin (Smithsonian, $35)

Per serving: 342 calories (percent of calories from fat, 57), 14 grams protein, 24 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 23 grams fat (13 grams saturated), 144 milligrams cholesterol, 443 milligrams sodium.

Miss Margaret's Oyster-Corn Bread Dressing

10 servings
Hands on: 15 minutes
Total time: 1 hour, 20 minutes (includes baking corn bread)

Vicky Murphy of Inland Seafood, who developed her taste for Apalachicola oysters while growing up in Tallahassee, passed along a holiday recipe from her mother. Margaret Murphy made the dressing so moist it had to be dipped with a serving spoon.

4 tablespoons butter, plus extra for greasing pan
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped celery
4 cups crumbled or cubed corn bread
2 cups crumbled or cubed biscuits or white bread
4 eggs, lightly beaten
2 to 3 cups chicken or turkey stock
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon rubbed sage
2 teaspoons poultry seasoning
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 pints whole shucked oysters, drained and rinsed,
liquor reserved

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-inch casserole pan. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and add the onion and celery. Cook until slightly tender.

In a large bowl, combine onion and celery with corn bread, white bread, eggs, chicken stock, thyme, sage, poultry seasoning, salt, pepper and oyster liquor. Mix well. Fold in oysters carefully, to avoid breaking.

Pour into the casserole dish. Bake until browned, 40 to 45 minutes.

Per serving: 462 calories (percent of calories from fat, 31), 16 grams protein, 62 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 16 grams fat (6 grams saturated), 160 milligrams cholesterol, 90 milligrams sodium.

Oyster Stew

6 servings
Hands on: 20 minutes
Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes

The late Bill Neal developed this stew as a more elaborate version of the traditional Southern oyster stew of milk, cream and oysters. White rice helps thicken the stew rather than heavy cream or flour, and the sautéed watercress and green onions lend a colorful accent.

4 tablespoons butter, divided
2/3 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
1/4 cup uncooked long grain white rice
2 1/2 cups reduced-sodium chicken stock
2 1/2 cups milk
1 cup chopped watercress
1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions
1 pint whole shucked oysters, drained and rinsed
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Watercress for garnish (optional)

Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a medium saucepan and sauté the onion and celery until lightly colored, 5 to 10 minutes. When tender, add rice and stir well for 3 minutes. Add chicken stock and simmer over low heat for 35 minutes, stirring occasionally. Let cool, then puree with a blender, food mill or food processor until smooth. Set aside until shortly before you are ready to finish the stew.

When ready to serve, return pureed rice mixture to a medium saucepan, add milk and bring to a simmer. In a small saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon butter over low heat and add the watercress and green onions. Toss several times and cover tightly to steam until just wilted and still bright green, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Add oysters to the soup and cook them at a simmer for 4 to 5 minutes, until the edges curl. Do not boil. Add salt and pepper, quickly stir in the watercress and green onions, and serve immediately. Garnish with watercress, if desired.

— Adapted from "Bill Neal's Southern Cooking" by Bill Neal

(University of North Carolina Press, $18.95)

Per serving: 236 calories (percent of calories from fat, 45), 15 grams protein, 18 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 12 grams fat (7 grams saturated), 74 milligrams cholesterol, 805 milligrams sodium.

Brown Oyster Stew With Benne Seeds

4 servings
Hands on: 15 minutes
Total time: 40 minutes

The Lowcountry twist on oyster stew is to add benne seeds, or sesame seeds, as they're most commonly known. A thicker version of brown oyster stew, meant for serving over rice or grits, traces back to "Charleston Receipts" by the Junior League of Charleston ($19.95). Chef Louis Osteen added fresh herbs, lots more sesame seeds and sesame oil for a taste more reminiscent of Asian cooking than Lowcountry. If you prefer less of a toasted-sesame flavor, omit the sesame oil or add just a few drops, and halve the amount of benne seeds. Serve with oyster crackers or buttered toast fingers.

4 tablespoons benne (sesame) seeds
2 tablespoons peanut oil
2 tablespoons (about 1 ounce) finely diced pancetta or bacon
2 tablespoons finely minced yellow onion
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/4 cups heavy cream
1 pint whole shucked oysters, rinsed and drained, liquor reserved
1 3/4 cup bottled clam juice
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon sesame oil (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the benne seeds in a small, heavy-bottomed sauté pan, such as a cast-iron skillet, over medium heat. Dry roast them by cooking for about 9 minutes, or until they become dark and fragrant. Remove from the stove and divide in half. Roughly crush half the seeds with the back of a spoon or a mortar and pestle and reserve.

Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat. Sauté the pancetta for about 5 minutes or until crisp and lightly browned. Remove the pancetta with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain. Leave the oil and any fat from the pancetta in the saucepan.

Add the onion and crushed benne seeds to the saucepan and sauté for about 3 minutes, stirring frequently. When the onion is lightly browned, add the flour, stir well to combine, and cook for 2 minutes. In a separate, small saucepan, heat the cream to just below a simmer.

Add the reserved oyster liquor, clam juice and thyme to the onion and simmer, stirring with a whisk, for about 2 minutes or until the mixture is without lumps. Add the warm cream and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the oysters and the whole benne seeds, along with the lemon juice, sesame oil and parsley. Simmer just until the oysters begin to curl, about 4 to 5 minutes. Quickly remove the saucepan from the heat and add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve immediately, garnished with the reserved pancetta.

— Adapted from "Louis Osteen's Charleston Cuisine"

by Louis Osteen (Algonquin Books)

Per serving: 553 calories (percent of calories from fat, 71), 14 grams protein, 25 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 43 grams fat (20 grams saturated), 170 milligrams cholesterol, 674 milligrams sodium.