IN SEARCH OF … For fun food, that’s a wrap

Our mothers may have tried to persuade us to the contrary, but picking up food —- at least some tasty items —- with our fingers may be the only way to eat it. Wraps are a case in point. Or mouth. Whatever. Check out these spots for some of the best wraps in the area.

CHATEAU DE SAIGON ***

4300 Buford Highway N.E., Suite 218, Atlanta. 404-929-0034, www.chateaudesaigon.com

Get all wrapped up in the thing that makes this restaurant stand out from any other Vietnamese spot in the area, rice paper wraps, or banh trang cuon. Order the grilled sampler: rice papers, a shallow bowl of water and an assortment of grilled marinated pork, minced shrimp grilled around a baton of sugar cane (called chao tom) and la lot —- minced beef flavored brightly with lemon grass then wrapped in pungent betel leaves. Add fresh lettuce leaves, green apple, slices of carambola, vermicelli noodles, long-leaved Vietnamese cilantro and mint, and the party begins.

TAQUERIA EL VECINO (not rated)

2743 La Vista Road, Decatur. 404-929-0301, www.taqueriaelvecino.com

This bright little spot near Toco Hill will definitely let you get your taco freak on, with house-made salsa ranging from mild to habanero hot served Mexican street-style from a salad bar. But the draw is what’s wrapped: tamales enrobed Mexico City-style in corn husks and stuffed with jalapenos and queso, mole con pollo and the best —- puerco con salsa verde, a pulled pork in mild salsa made with tomatillos.

LA OAXAQUENA TAQUERIA ***

605 Mount Zion Road, Jonesboro. 770-960-3010, www.taquerialaoaxaquena.com

The owners moved the restaurant last December to a new location with lots more room, but fear not: This is still soul food, Mexican-style, and the best in the area. I’ve had better meals here than I’ve eaten in Mexico. The tamales, corn husk-wrapped or encased in banana leaves Oaxacan-style, are perhaps the best on the planet, stuffed with masa and shredded chicken and served with spicy red sauce or piquant green sauce. If you don’t speak Spanish, just point to what you want on the colorful menu.

MF SUSHIBAR ****

265 Ponce de Leon Ave., Atlanta. 404-815-8844. www.mfsushibar.com.

The slick digs and power-lunch players belie what’s behind the success of this Midtown wonder: some of the freshest, best-made sushi in the city, second only to its sister spot, MF Buckhead. The crunch of the nori wrapped around a hand roll with crispy salmon skin or spicy tuna gives a palpable sense of quality to sushi in Atlanta.

Get into the conversation: Visit my blog at www.ajc.com/tabletalk. If your restaurant is new, closing or undergoing changes, or you have a food-related event, we want to hear from you. Send the information —- including your name, phone number, e-mail and Web site if you have one —- to mford@ajc.com.

KEY TO AJC RATINGS

***** Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.

**** Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.

*** Very good: Merits a drive if you’re looking for this kind of dining.

** Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit and miss.

* Fair: Food is more miss than hit.

Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.

Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 or less; $$$ means $50 or less; $$ means $25 or less; $ means $15 or less. The price code represents a typical full-course meal for one excluding drinks.