IN SEARCH OF … Black-eyed peas, collards get year off to a good start

The New Year is right around the corner, and it’s time to belly up to a plate of black-eyed peas, collards —- or, if you’re downright traditional, both. Here are some spots that’ll serve ‘em up righteously.

AGNES & MURIEL’S (not rated)

1514 Monroe Drive N.E., Atlanta. 404-885-1000. www.mominthekitchen.com

This tiny house on Monroe Drive may have defined Southern retro chic, with cake-icing-colored walls outfitted with one of the greatest Barbie collections this side of the Mississippi. Here, Barbie’s got a Southern accent, with collard greens spruced up stylishly with sesame and lemon. Look for a second location to open on Piedmont Road in January.

BUSY BEE CAFE (not rated)

810 Martin Luther King Drive S.W., Atlanta. 404-525-9212. www.thebusybeecafe.com.

Go early for lunch, or you may end up standing in line for this busy soulfood/meat ‘n’ two’s smothered fried chicken, collard greens and fried okra. Blackeyed peas are served on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

WISTERIA ***

471 N. Highland Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-525-3363, www.wisteria-atlanta.com

One of the first to bring Southern food out of the frying pan and into the fire of culinary fashion, Inman Park’s Wisteria serves indigenous ingredients like black-eyed peas in the clever guise of a slightly chunky hummus served with sweet potato chips, plus skillet chicken served over peppery collards speckled with bacon.

MATTHEWS CAFETERIA (not rated)

2299 Main St., Tucker. 770-491-9577, matthewscafeteria.com.

Folks in Tucker use Matthews as a directional marker, it’s been there so long. Its fried chicken, black-eyed peas (only on Mondays Wednesdays and Fridays), yellow squash and turnip greens make it as popular as ever —- a Friday lunch will be packed with families, cops and construction workers.

JCT Kitchen ****

1198 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta. 404-355-2252, www.jctkitchen.com

Chef Ford Fry’s menu boasts good old-fashioned farmstead cooking, but with French fundamentals and bistro style. Here, slurp up sides of collard greens or turnip-and-potato gratin to ring in a prosperous New Year.

Get into the conversation: Visit my blog at www.ajc.com/tabletalk. If your restaurant is new, closing or undergoing changes, or you have a food-related event, we want to hear from you. Send the information —- including your name, phone number, e-mail and Web site if you have one —- to mford@ajc.com.