RESTAURANTS: 4 great spots for larb-kai

ROSWELL

Rice Thai Cuisine

“Thai is a practical and perfect marriage between Chinese and Indian cuisine,” says Kris Boonruang, chef-owner of Rice Thai Cuisine, who was born in Surin, Thailand, where larb originates. The name of the dish translates to good fortune, so it is commonly brought to temples, family reunions and prepared when loved ones pay a visit. Boonruang’s sister, Pia, is the chef in Roswell, and her larb is prepared and served the traditional way, with minced pork, beef or chicken, lime juice, fish sauce, peppers, red onions and rice powder, “the sole ingredient that makes larb, larb,” Boonruang says. “It’s what makes this dish so complex.” It’s served with cabbage and brought to the table on ice with cucumber and sticky rice.

$7 at lunch, $9 at dinner. 1104 Canton St., Roswell, with another location in Sandy Springs. 770-640-0788, www.goforthai.com.

VIRGINIA-HIGHLAND

Surin of Thailand

The recipes at Surin come from owner Surin Technarakpong’s mother, and her preference for holly basil, a Thai herb with a mild licorice flavor, gives Surin’s larb a nice spin. Ground chicken or beef is mixed with fish sauce, lime juice, freshly roasted, then ground Thai chiles that general manager Chris Hedgepath calls “skinny, little and wicked.” The rice powder is made fresh from cooked rice that’s baked and ground into a powder. Served with chilled cabbage.

$7.25. 810 N. Highland Ave., Virginia-Highland. 404-892-7789, www.surinofthailand.com.

ALPHARETTA

Satay House

Cuisine from Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and China is represented at this pan-Asian restaurant. The larb beef or chicken is prepared by Thai chef Sripapa Oyanantaruk. She sautes ground beef or chicken with chives, minced ginger, onion, lime juice, fish sauce and chili powder or fresh chiles, whichever is available that day, and serves it with cabbage slices and cucumber to cool the tongue.

$6.95. 281 S. Main St., Alpharetta. 770-663-8666, satay-house.com.

MIDTOWN

Tamarind Seed Thai Bistro

Pedigreed chef Nan and husband Charlie Niyomkul make a larb-kai whose oomph is in the chili lime sauce made from freshly roasted peppers, galanga and lemongrass. Sounds complicated, but Charlie calls this recipe “simple street food in Bangkok.” To quell the two-pepper-rating heat, Charlie recommends hot tea, not water. Scoop up a little with the fresh vegetables, cabbage, string beans, carrots and celery, since larb isn’t meant to be eaten straight.

$12. 1197 Peachtree St. N.W., Midtown. 404-873-4888, www.tamarindseed.com.