Andrews, N.C. — Go ahead, honk your horn and scream at aggressive drivers while you make your way out of Atlanta, because when you arrive at this western North Carolina inn, stress is simply not allowed.

You won't find business meetings, deadlines or bosses at the British-inspired Hawkesdene House Mountain Retreat just outside Andrews. Instead, nice folks gather around a large pit fire while twirling coat hangers dotted with marshmallows.

TASGOLA KARLA BRUNER/Staff (ENLARGE)
Al Swope of Gainesville and Scooter head out for an October sunset trek near the Hawkesdene House in Andrews, N.C. Llama treks are on hold for the winter, but other area activities are plentiful.
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IF YOU GO Getting there • It's about a three-hour drive to the Hawkesdene House Mountain Retreat. Take I-575/Ga. 515 north; three miles past Blue Ridge, turn left on Ga. 60 to Mineral Bluff, then right on Ga. Spur 60 to U.S. 74 and right on U.S. 74 through Murphy to Andrews; turn right into Andrews on U.S. 19 Business, then right on Cherry Street, then go 3.3 miles to Phillips Creek Road and turn left. About Hawkesdene House • Hawkesdene House Mountain Retreat, 381 Phillips Creek Road, Andrews, N.C., 28901; 1-800-447-9549. The inn's Web site, www.hawkesdene.com, has more information including prices and photos of accommodations, or call for a brochure, which also lists attractions in and around Cherokee County, including mountain biking, horseback riding, theater, gem mining, fishing, arts and crafts schools and galleries. Information • Cherokee County Chamber of Commerce: Web site VIDEO Llama trek dinner: For PC | For Mac

The biggest decision here: how to divide your time between the chess set, rocking chairs and hiking trails.

The inn, on a private cove with gurgling Phillips Creek and a waterfall, is surrounded by 20 acres bordering the Nantahala National Forest. Perfect spots to mountain bike, ride horses, white-water raft or shop for crafts are a short drive away.

One activity that draws many to the Hawkesdene is the llama trek up Hawksnest Mountain for sunset dinner overlooking the valley.

During a recent trek, two couples laughed as they tugged on the leashes to lead their llamas upward.

"Whoa, lunchtime," said Mary Alice Swope, 59, of Gainesville as her llama took an impromptu break to munch on weeds. She decided to gently coax Hawke, a fluffy brown llama with a no-nonsense face, back into action as her husband, Al, 73, grinned.

"You're a handsome llama," she said in a soothing voice. Hawke looked up from his snack and leaned in close.

"I think he's going in for a kiss," said our tour guide, Elliott Harris, 19, the innkeepers' son.

Floridian George Presson, 63, was in front with his llama, Crazy Horse, who likes taking the lead. But don't tell that to Henry, the innkeepers' affable black Portuguese water dog, who trotted ahead with such authority he seemed to think he was the tour guide. He even stopped periodically to see if everyone was in formation.

The group stopped at an overlook for dinner inside a wooden gazebo. Innkeeper Mark Harris donned a starched white apron while flipping quail and mixed veggies on the grill. His wife, Melissa Harris, had tucked other goodies, including pasta salad and cheesecake, into the backpacks the llamas lugged up the mountain.

Sitting atop the mountain ridge, trekkers were rewarded with a panoramic view of the Great Smoky Mountains, which on this evening resembled a blue watercolor smeared by the haze from a distant thunderstorm.

This 30-minute walk up the mountain is manageable for healthy individuals ages 3 to 80, say the Harrises. The cost is $35 per person, with treks offered mid-April through October, the most popular month. Some of the inn's repeat customers are already making reservations for next October.

Other months at the Hawkesdene have their own charm.

Visitors still hike in winter and then come back to the inn or cabin for hot chocolate "or something stronger" in front of the fire, said Melissa Harris.

Antiquing seems to increase during cold weather. And nearby Murphy has a quaint square with shops peddling the region's pottery, stained glass, candles and bath products.

If the inn doesn't get snow, Maggie Valley, an hour away, and Gatlinburg, Tenn., an hour and 40 minutes away, do. You can ski, snowboard or sled.

The inn and cabins are open 365 days a year, and cabins are usually booked for Thanksgiving and Christmas by families.

"They decorate their cottages with old-fashioned Christmas trees decorated with berries and popcorn — very Laura Ingalls Wilder," the innkeeper said. Every town within 100 miles has Christmas festivities.

Spring provides the right setting for horseback riding and mountain biking, and the llama treks get under way.

The hotter months draw watersports enthusiasts who flock to the nearby river for white-water rafting.

George and Sandy Presson couldn't wait for warmer weather. They found the Hawkesdene when searching for refuge from Hurricane Wilma, which had threatened their Tampa home.

The Pressons took their first llama trek to a mountain overlook, pausing to relax in the gazebo with grapes and cheese.

"I love the color of the leaves," said Sandy Presson, as she surveyed leaves of pumpkin-orange, crimson and kelly green edged with golden-yellow fringes.

For guests feeling the need to work off the inn's meals — breakfast might be egg souffle or crisp French toast wrapped around a gooey strawberry and cream cheese spread — the property has paths for moderate to challenging hikes, including one to the Hidden Water Falls, 30 minutes from the inn.

Claudia and John Gifford of Franklin, Tenn., hiked to the top of the falls recently to celebrate their 30th anniversary.

The Hawkesdene House has five bed-and-breakfast guestrooms, each with private bath and TV; one has a full kitchen.

While couples enjoy the pampering of the B&B, groups can pile in one of the Hawkesdene's four private cabins adjacent to the inn. The cottages have a fireplace, screened porch with rustic rocking chairs and a fully-equipped kitchen. The three two-bedroom cottages sleep up to six people, and the three-bedroom can accommodate up to 10.

"The food was great, I loved looking at the llamas, Henry the dog was adorable, and it was great having some short and strenuous trails out the back door," John Gifford said. "We would certainly go back to Hawkesdene again."