SEBASTIAN INLET STATE PARK, Fla. — The pink and purple fingers of the dawning sunlight were barely peaking over the Atlantic when Terry O'Toole steered his four-wheeler south down the sloping beach toward the inlet, beginning his early morning check for turtle nests.

As he rumbled along, the 46-year-old park ranger scanned the sand for "crawls," turtle tracks from the water to the dune line and back, evidence of the start of nesting season — an awe-inspiring ritual carried out by one of the world's oldest living beings on these moonlit beaches for thousands of years.

CURTIS COMPTON/AJC/File (ENLARGE)
An adult female loggerhead
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For 25 years, O'Toole has been gatekeeper for this ancient maternity ward.

O'Toole and others like him along the Florida coast, from Key Biscayne through New Smyrna Beach, will lead small groups of people to witness the mystical ritual of giant Loggerheads laying their eggs. Although Leatherbacks and Greens also nest along Florida's beaches, Loggerheads are protected from humans because they are endangered.

GO WITH EXPERTS

Ranger-led walks: O'Toole is one of a few dozen trained specialists permitted to lead walks. For the protection of these gentle creatures, it is illegal in Florida for people to approach or in any way distract a nesting turtle. People caught near nesting turtles are subject to prosecution and fines.

Sebastian Inlet State Park is within the Archie Carr National Wildlife Refuge, a sanctuary for turtles named after the famed turtle researcher.

As O'Toole drove the four-wheeler southward, the waves tumbled loudly onto the shore and the outgoing tide ripped between jagged rock jetties.

WHAT YOU'LL SEE

Turtle nests: Here during the warm summer nights of May, June and July, these lumbering and gentle sirens of the sea return to the beach of their birth, spending 60 to 90 minutes digging precise nests, 24 inches deep and eight inches across, and lay 400 to 450 eggs during four or five "crawls" over roughly eight weeks.

The turtle walks begin with a short talk by the guide.

While that goes on, trained scouts watch the beaches and radio back to the guide when they've found a nearby turtle. Not to frighten the turtle back into the sea, guides wait to take groups to the turtle.

The egg-laying process: When the mother is finished digging the nest and starts laying her eggs, O'Toole leads the group to her side. That's because once she's begun dropping eggs, nothing stops her until she's finished

She often sheds real tears as she lays.

When she is finished laying the last eggs, she covers the nest with sand, packs it down with her flippers, disguising the nest against predators like raccoons before she leaves.

All this, O'Toole points out, to make sure that one in 1,000 hatchlings will survive to breeding age, 15 to 20 years.

NAME A TURTLE

On these nocturnal walks the youngest child in the crowd will give turtles names like Sandy. Often, O'Toole said, kids name the turtles after their moms.

CAMERA TIPS

No flash allowed: Turtle nestings are truly Kodak moments, but don't bring your flash camera.

Use moon as light: The law doesn't allow external lighting of any kind. Some video recorders and digital still cameras, even film cameras with very fast film, may be able to capture the scene, especially on a full moon.

TOP TURTLE SPOTS

Biggest concentration: Last year, there were 66,550 turtle nests along 626 miles of monitored beaches from the Keys to Jacksonville. Nearly three-quarters of them were in Brevard, Indian River, St. Lucie, Martin and Palm Beach counties, making Central Florida one of the largest turtle nesting sites in the world.

They keep coming back: Many turtles live to age 55 or longer and lay eggs for 30 to 35 years. Researchers know that the same turtle will lay eggs on the beach of her birth time after time.

WHAT TO KNOW: FLORIDA TURTLE WALKS

TOP SPOTS

—Melbourne Beach: Archie Carr National Wildlife Refuge, 9500 S. A1A, 321-984-4852. Reservations start May 15 for June walks and June 15 for July walks. Walks are 9 p.m. Tuesday-Wednesday.

—Melbourne Beach area: Sea Turtle Preservation Society, 111 S. Miramar, Indiatlantic; 321-676-1701; www.seaturtlespacecoast.org. Now taking reservations. June walks are Monday-Wednesday and Friday-Saturday. July walks are Monday, Wednesday, Friday-Saturday. Call for times and location.

—Titusville: Canaveral National Seashore, 386-428-3384, ext. 18. Registration started May 15 for June programs & June 15 for July programs. Walks are Wednesday-Saturday, 8 p.m.

—Hobe Sound: Hobe Sound National Wildlife Refuge and Nature Center, 13640 S. E. Federal Highway, 772-546-2067; www.hobesoundnaturecenter.org. Walks at 8:30 p.m. Tuesdays and Thursdays, May 25-July 22.

—Vero Beach: Disney's Vero Beach Resort, Wabasso Causeway at A1A, 321-984- 4852; www.floridastateparks.org. Reservations started May 15 for June walks and June 15 for July walks. Walks are 9 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays.

—Sebastian Inlet: McLarty Treasure Museum at Sebastian Inlet State Park, 321-984-4852. Reservations started May 15 for June walks and June 15 for July walks. Walks are 9 p.m. Friday-Sunday.

—Jensen Beach: Florida Power and Light's St. Lucie power plant on A1A, 800-334-5483. Walks are Friday and Saturday, June 4-July 17, at 9 p.m.

—Juno Beach: Marinelife Center of Juno Beach, 12400 U.S. 1, 561-627-8280; www.marinelife.org. Walks are 8:30 p.m. every Tuesday-Thursday in June and July.

—Singer Island/North Palm Beach: John D. MacArthur Beach State Park, 10900 State Road 703, 561-624-6952; www.macarthurbeach.org. Takes reservations starting June 1. Walks are 8:30 p.m. Mondays and Thursdays, June 3-July 8, except for July 5.

OTHERS

—Boca Raton: Gumbo Limbo Nature Center, 1801 N. Ocean Blvd., 561-338- 1473; www.gumbolimbo.org. Now taking reservations. Walks are 9 p.m., May 24-July 15 each Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, except May 31.

—Fort Lauderdale: Museum of Discovery and Science, 401 SW Second Pl., 954-713-0930; www.mods.org. Walks are 9 p.m., June 21-23, July 6-7 and July 20-22.

—Dania: John U. Lloyd Beach State Park, 6503 N. Ocean Dr., 954-923-2833. Walks are 9 p.m. Wednesdays and Fridays, June 2-July 30.

—Key Biscayne: Crandon Park Visitors' and Nature Center, 6767 Crandon Blvd., 305-361-6767. Walks are 8:30 p.m.; days to be announced. Takes reservations starting June 1. Walk costs $5; parking $4.

—Miami Beach: Haulover Beach Park, 10800 Collins Ave., 305-947-3525. Sea Turtle Hatchling Release program in July. Walks at 9 p.m. Cost: $5.

LODGING NEAR TURTLES

(Vero Beach & Sebastian)

—Driftwood Inn, 3150 Ocean Dr., Vero Beach, 772-231-0550. A Vero Beach legend. Built from driftwood and parts of sunken ships. $59-$175.

—Key West Inn at Capt. Hiram's Resort, 1580 U.S. 1, Sebastian, 772-388-8588. Suites with private balconies; some with bunk beds for kids. Overlooks Indian River. Heated pool. Breakfast included. $99-$159.

— Palm Court Hotel, 3244 Ocean Dr., Vero Beach, 772-231-2800. Oceanside hotel with exercise room, heated pool & restaurant. $119 and up.

—Vero Beach Inn, 4700 N. A1A, Vero Beach, 772-231- 1600; . Beachside, family-owned inn with heated pool &restaurant. $89 and up.

DINING

Vero Beach-Sebastian

—Ocean Grille, Sexton Plaza, Vero Beach, 772-231-5409. Upscale surf-and-turf cuisine in historic oceanside spot. Entrees $8-$34.

—Captain Hiram's, 1606 Indian River Dr., Sebastian, on the water casual, 772-589-4345. $9-$24.

—Hurricane Harbor, 1540 Indian River Dr., Sebastian, 772-589-1773. Family-owned restaurant on Indian River. $9-$27.

—Squid Lips, 1669 Indian River Dr., Sebastian, 772-589-3828. Casual bar and grill. $8-$19.