DARIEN -- Hopes for the revival of Georgia's shrimp industry reside in a squat, aluminum building off U.S. 17 just north of town.

George Marra, executive director of the Georgia Shrimp Association, presides.

"Niche markets," he preaches, "that's the only way to succeed."

Battered by imports, 28 shrimpers, dockworkers and others raised $500,000 to start the Georgia Shrimp Co., a limited partnership. The company has co-opted the successful marketing plank used by another Georgia product -- onions -- in an effort to keep shrimpers afloat.

Marra, a non-shrimper, works tirelessly to tell restaurant owners, fresh-market operators, newspaper reporters and others of the tasty beauty of "Sweet Georgia shrimp." He hopes shoppers and diners will recognize the Georgia Shrimp Co. logo and instinctively be drawn to what is widely considered the plumpest, juiciest shrimp harvested in U.S. coastal waters.

If so, shrimpers like John Wallace might just stay afloat. If consumers are willing to pay another buck or two a pound.

"If you walk into a supermarket and see certified 'Sweet Georgia Shrimp' in this tray and imported shrimp in that tray, which are you going to buy?" asks Wallace. "The average consumer can go to Shoney's. We're after the discriminating tastes, wherever they may be."

The Georgia Shrimp Co. opened last May and, not surprisingly, struggled. But it's now debt-free and angling for a big year with a client list of 50 upscale restaurants and markets in Atlanta, Jacksonville, New York and San Francisco.

"They really need to focus on their wholesale market, whether that would be providing high-end restaurants or just targeting one or two geographic areas," said Donna Fisher, an assistant professor at Georgia Southern University who's doing a marketing study for the company.

Marra hopes to parlay quick-to-the table freshness and environmental sensitivity into profit. Boats, docks and processing companies will carry the Georgia Shrimp Co.'s seal of approval. Consumers will be assured that its shrimp will be turtle-friendly and chemical-free.

"We're working to give people in the industry more control over what's going on," said Chris Skipper, the company's general manager. "We're trying to survive these imports."