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2002 Golden Whisk Awards
By SUSAN PUCKETT
Atlanta Journal-Constitution Food Editor
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If there is any doubt, we tinker with it until we feel it's up to snuff, or ditch it and move on to a better recipe.
And if it exceeds our expectations, we place it under a file marked "Golden Whisk contender."
For five years, we have ended the year with a roundup of what we view as our top 10 favorites: the recipes that, in our opinions, are most worthy of a special place of honor in anyone's recipe files.
Those that stand out typically have more than good taste going for them. Perhaps they introduced us to a time-saving cooking technique, educated us about an interesting ingredient, made us feel nutritionally virtuous or took us on a tasty trip down memory lane.
This selection represents all of those things for us, and more. And we hope they'll do the same for you.
MAIN DISH
Roast Pork Loin
With Golden Almond Crust
Makes 8 servings
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 1 1/2-2 hours
Elizabeth Lee wrote an article this fall about nuts suggesting that, despite their high fat content, you can still reap their nutritional and taste virtues without blowing your diet by incorporating small amounts of them into recipes. We were knocked out by this elegant case in point. Any leftovers will be fought over for sandwiches.
1 (4-pound) boneless pork loin roast
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
1/2 cup slivered almonds
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 teaspoon herbes de Provence
For the Dijon mustard sauce:
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, or more to taste
1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season pork with salt and pepper and rub with mustard.
In a food processor, with the motor running, add garlic and process until minced. Add bread crumbs, almonds, parsley and herbs and pulse until mixture is finely chopped. Pat almond mixture over roast, pressing to coat well. Place roast on a rack in a shallow roasting pan and cook for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until the crust is lightly browned and a meat thermometer inserted into the center of the roast registers 155 to 160 degrees. Transfer roast to a cutting board and let stand 10 minutes before slicing.
While the pork is cooking, prepare the sauce. In a saucepan over medium heat, simmer chicken broth until reduced to 1 cup. Reduce heat and whisk in mustard; taste. Add additional mustard if desired. Whisk in butter, a few pieces at a time, until butter is incorporated and the sauce is smooth. -- Adapted from "Nuts" by Tina Salter (Ten Speed Press, $29.95)
Per serving: 391 calories (percent of calories from fat, 48), 47 grams protein, 6 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 22 grams fat, 110 milligrams cholesterol, 473 milligrams sodium.
APPETIZER
Tuscan Kale Bruschetta
Makes 4 servings
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
For a recent World Eats column, John Kessler researched Tuscan kale, which Mediterranean food authority Paula Wolfert calls "the best of all winter kales -- sweet, delicious, beautifully textured, versatile and easy to cook." Recognizable for its elongated, greenish-black, crenulated leaves, it's also known as cavolo nero ("black cabbage") and "dinosaur kale." He tried using it in a number of dishes but was particularly blown away by this simple appetizer.
1 loaf ciabatta bread
2 tablespoons excellent extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, crushed or minced fine
2 ounces pancetta or guanciale, diced
1 bunch Tuscan kale (about 10 leaves), ribs removed and leaves slivered very thinly
1 small hot red pepper in brine, chopped fine (or one large pinch dried red pepper flakes)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Cut one end off the ciabatta loaf and then cut 8 thin ( 1/4 inch) slices of ciabatta carefully with a serrated knife. Toast in toaster or oven until golden on both sides.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and the pancetta or guanciale. Toss briefly until aromatic, then add the kale. Continue tossing until the bits of pancetta start to curl and brown. Add the hot pepper and the seasonings. Divide evenly on the 8 toasts, heaping the greens a bit in the center. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Per serving: 205 calories (percent of calories from fat, 41), 8 grams protein, 22 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 9 grams fat, 10 milligrams cholesterol, 623 milligrams sodium.
MAIN DISH
Bulgogi
Makes 4 servings
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Marinating time: 10-15 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Every week we ask readers to take our 5:30 Challenge: Come up with a main dish that can be prepared in 30 minutes or less with no more than five ingredients. Susanne Torres of Atlanta met that challenge with this tasty beef entree of Korean origin, and it's a keeper. She wrote that even her "picky-eater son loves it, as does everyone I
have ever served it to." The soy sauce mixture can be boiled and used as gravy on the rice.
3 tablespoons sesame seeds
2/3 cup low-sodium soy sauce
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons sherry
1 pound top sirloin or top round, sliced into 2-inch-long strips
In a nonstick sauté pan, toast sesame seeds until golden brown, swirling them occasionally to prevent burning and toast evenly. Pulverize sesame seeds with a rolling pin, mortar and pestle or knife. In a large bowl, mix sesame seeds, soy sauce, sugar, sherry and 1/4 cup water. Add beef and stir to combine.
Marinate for 10 to 15 minutes. In a nonstick pan or a lightly oiled skillet, place beef strips in a single layer. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes per side.
Per serving: 195 calories (percent of calories from fat, 38), 25 grams protein, 5 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 8 grams fat, 66 milligrams cholesterol, 578 milligrams sodium.
MAIN DISH
Shrimp Arnaud
Makes 4 servings
Preparation time: 15 minutes, plus 1 hour to chill
Cooking time: 1-2 minutes
When the Food Goddess published a request for the recipe for Shrimp Arnaud from the now-defunct Herren's restaurant, she got this recipe from Linda Garrett of Tucker -- a different version clipped a decade ago from this newspaper. It came not from the Atlanta institution, but from a 1932 cookbook "New Orleans Recipes." She tried it anyway, and it was so good she couldn't resist running it. Later, several readers came through with the original, which we also published. But the Food Goddess maintains it's the one from New Orleans that will go down as one of her all-time favorites.
1 pound peeled and deveined shrimp
6 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons vinegar
1 tablespoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
4 tablespoons creole or other spicy mustard
1 tablespoon finely chopped celery
3 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 head romaine lettuce, chopped
Boil shrimp for 1 to 2 minutes or until just done. Rinse in cold water and refrigerate for 1 hour. Mix olive oil, vinegar, paprika, salt, pepper, mustard, celery, onion and parsley and chill. "Enthrone" shrimp on lettuce and top with sauce.
Per serving: 298 calories (percent of calories from fat, 69), 20 grams protein, 5 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 23 grams fat, 161 milligrams cholesterol, 862 milligrams sodium.
DESSERT
Chocolate-Black Raspberry Brownies
Makes 20 servings
Preparation time: 30 minutes, plus 1 hour to chill
Cooking time: 25 minutes
Steve Hays nominated Diane H. Floyd as one of Georgia's best home cooks for our In the Kitchen With ... feature, writing that "her delicious raspberry-chocolate brownies were declared the 'official dessert of Inman Park' some years ago at a neighborhood event." We, too, found them to be a standout.
4 squares unsweetened chocolate
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter
2 cups granulated sugar
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips, divided
10 ounces black raspberry jam, preferably seedless (do not substitute red raspberry or blackberry), at room temperature
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 13-by-9-inch pan. In the microwave or a double boiler set over simmering water, melt chocolate and butter together and stir until the mixture is smooth. By hand, stir in sugar, eggs, vanilla and flour until well-combined. Spread in pan. Sprinkle evenly with 1/3 cup of the chocolate chips.
Bake for 25 minutes, or until slightly firm when touched lightly. Do not overbake. Let cool at least 15 minutes.
Spread the jam evenly over the brownies. Melt the remaining 2/3 cup chocolate chips with the 2 teaspoons vegetable oil. Stir until smooth. Pour melted chocolate over the jam. Using a knife, spread the melted chocolate over the jam in as even a layer as possible. Chill thoroughly and cut into small squares. Serve chilled.
Per serving: 278 calories (percent of calories from fat, 41), 3 grams protein, 41 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, 14 grams fat, 46 milligrams cholesterol, 85 milligrams sodium.
MAIN DISH
Baked Eggplant and Polenta
Makes 6 servings
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 40 minutes
Susan Nicholson, who writes the 7-Day Menu Planner feature which appears weekly in Sunday Living, tells us that she and her husband "practically licked the platter clean with this one." Its clever use of fresh and high-quality convenience products makes it a winner in our book, too.
1 ( 1 1/2-pound) peeled eggplant, cut lengthwise into 8 slices
1 26-ounce jar marinara sauce, divided
8 ounces part-skim shredded mozzarella cheese (2 cups), divided
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, divided
1 17- or 18-ounce tube ready-to-heat polenta, cut into 20 slices
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Coat eggplant slices with cooking spray on both sides. Place on a baking sheet and bake 20 minutes or until tender. Reduce oven to 375 degrees. Place 4 slices eggplant in bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Spread with 1 cup marinara sauce. Sprinkle with 2/3 cup mozzarella and 1 tablespoon Parmesan. Repeat once. Top with polenta slices, remaining sauce and both cheeses. Bake, uncovered, 20 minutes or until bubbly and cheese melts.
Per serving: 245 calories (percent of calories from fat, 29), 14 grams protein, 29 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams fiber, 8 grams fat, 25 milligrams cholesterol, 758 milligrams sodium.
MAIN DISH
Chicken in Garlic and Shallots
Makes 6 servings
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 1 1/2-1 3/4 hours
Food Network star Alton Brown calls this dish his "favorite dish of all time to cook," and after trying it, Reagan Walker saw why. She was especially intrigued by the technique of slow-frying and found it a delectable way to take advantage of economical chicken thighs. After cooking, she advises putting a good bit of the remaining oil in a bowl on the table for bread dipping.
1 whole chicken (broiler/fryer) cut into 8 pieces, or 10 chicken thighs
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
Several sprigs of parsley, sage and thyme
10 peeled cloves of garlic
10 shallots, peeled and split in half from stem to root
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season chicken liberally with salt and pepper. Toss with 2 tablespoons of olive oil and brown on both sides in a wide, straight-sided, ovenproof frying pan or skillet over high heat. (If you don't have such a pan, you may need to brown the chicken in one pan and then finish the dish in a casserole.)
Remove from heat; add herbs, garlic, shallots and the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil. (There's no reason to chop the herbs, just distribute them around and in between the chicken.) Cover and bake for 1 1/2 hours.
Per serving: 420 calories (percent of calories from fat, 71), 27 grams protein, 2 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, 33 grams fat, 132 milligrams cholesterol, 120 milligrams sodium.
DESSERT
Warm Valrhona Chocolate Cakes
Makes 6 servings
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 7-8 minutes
In the From the Menu of ... feature, Jeanne Besser, who fulfills readers' requests for restaurant recipes and tests them, called Bacchanalia's signature dessert "a chocolate lover's dream. Mini chocolate cakes burst with an eruption of chocolate ooze. It's the ultimate gooey treat." Like most professional kitchens, she adds, ingredients are measured out in weight -- although she also included the closest standard measure. Serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
6 ounces (1 1/2 sticks) butter
8 3/4 ounces Valrhona chocolate or extra bitter chocolate, coarsely chopped
3 whole eggs
3 egg yolks
2 3/4 ounces ( 1/3 cup) granulated sugar
2 ounces (about 1/2 cup) all-purpose flour
Preheat oven on convection setting to 400 degrees (or to standard 425 degrees). Butter and lightly flour 6 small ramekins or molds and set aside. In a double boiler, melt butter and chocolate. Meanwhile, in an electric mixer on high speed, whip the eggs, egg yolks and sugar until fluffy, about 10 minutes. Reduce speed to low and slowly add flour. Add chocolate mixture until incorporated. Fill ramekins halfway with cake batter. Bake for 7-8 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool 3-5 minutes. Turn over onto plate and unmold.
Per serving: 554 calories (percent of calories from fat, 74), 8 grams protein, 40 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 46 grams fat, 262 milligrams cholesterol, 265 milligrams sodium.
BREAD
Razzle-Dazzle Corn Bread
Makes 6 servingsPreparation time: 20 minutesCooking time: 25 minutes
At the National Corn Bread Festival in South Pittsburgh, Tenn., the cornmeal creation that captured Reagan Walker's attention the most was this one, which won 10-year-old Amber Smith of Sequatchie, Tenn., $300 in the the 4-H cook-off. She and her mom, Amy, whipped it up one night when, according to Amber, "I was in the mood for something sweet and we were out of cake mix."
Shortening to coat skillet
(about 1 tablespoon)
1 cup self-rising flour
1 cup self-rising cornmeal
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon zest
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, melted
3/4 cup milk
2 egg yolks plus 1 whole egg
1 1/2 cups fresh raspberries
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Coat an 8- or 9-inch cast-iron skillet with a thin layer of shortening and set aside.
In a medium mixing bowl, combine self-rising flour, self-rising cornmeal, 3/4 cup sugar and lemon zest. In a separate bowl, mix together butter, milk, egg yolks and whole egg. Pour liquid mixture into the dry ingredients and mix until blended. Gently fold in raspberries. Pour mixture into the skillet and bake for 25 minutes. Remove the bread from the oven and sprinkle 2 tablespoons of sugar over the top. Return to the oven and bake another 5 minutes.
Per serving: 524 calories (percent of calories from fat, 46), 7 grams protein, 64 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 28 grams fat, 168 milligrams cholesterol, 779 milligrams sodium.
SALAD
Hot and Sour Soba Salad
Makes 6 servings
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
This year we have been reminded over and over that a high-carbohydrate diet isn't all it's been cracked up to be. But free-lance writer Deborah Geering reminded us that not all carbs are created equal, and whole grains, such as buckwheat, continue to be extolled by nutrition experts as an important part of a healthy diet. And as this recipe shows, they can taste great, too.
For the Hot and Sour Dressing:
1 tablespoon tahini
2 teaspoons tamari
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 1/2 teaspoons hot red pepper oil
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 1/2 teaspoons minced or grated fresh ginger
1/2 clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup vegetable broth
For the salad:
6 dried shiitake mushrooms
1 tablespoon tamari
2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 pound buckwheat noodles (soba)
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 cup mung bean sprouts
1 cucumber, peeled and diced
2/3 cup unsalted peanuts
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Red leaf lettuce
Tomato wedges
To make the dressing: In a blender, combine tahini, tamari, vinegar, red pepper oil, red pepper flakes, sesame oil, ginger, garlic and vegetable broth and process until smooth. Set aside.
To make the salad: Place the dried mushrooms in a small bowl and cover with boiling water. Add the tamari and stir. Let stand for about 15 minutes while you prepare the rest of the salad. Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add the salt, vegetable oil and noodles. Cook until al dente, about 5 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water and toss with sesame oil in a large bowl.
When the mushrooms are soft, drain and rinse thoroughly. Cut off and discard the stems, then slice the caps into slivers. Add to noodles along with bean sprouts, cucumber, peanuts, cilantro and dressing. Line a serving platter with lettuce leaves, top with noodle mixture and garnish with tomato wedges. -- Adapted from "Fast Vegetarian Feasts" by Martha Rose Shulman (Dial Press, 1982)
Per serving: 330 calories (percent of calories from fat, 48), 11 grams protein, 37 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 18 grams fat, no cholesterol, 760 milligrams sodium.


