The Platonic ideal of the flavor of coffee is a cup of dense, dark espresso with a rich head of crema. But we can appreciate the Platonic less-than-ideal, as well. Coffee works as a flavoring in sweet and savory dishes because it always suggests the powerful intensity of the beverage.

— John Kessler

Louie Favorite/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)

Espresso Martini.

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Coffee Crème Brûlée

6 servings
Hands on: 20 minutes
Total time: 45 minutes, plus 4 hours chilling time

This creamy, rich custard is studded with flecks of coffee. It is so good it will make a coffee lover out of anyone who tries it. If serving at night, choose decaf beans.

2 cups heavy cream
2 tablespoons very coarsely ground espresso beans
4 egg yolks
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 to 3 tablespoons brown sugar, firmly packed

Preheat oven to 325 degrees and place a rack in the lower third of the oven. Set 6 (6-ounce) ramekins in a baking pan.

In a saucepan over medium heat, heat the cream and ground espresso beans until small bubbles form around the rim. Strain the cream through a fine sieve to remove the espresso beans.

In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar for 1 minute. Gradually whisk some of the heated cream into the egg mixture, a little at a time, to warm it. Gradually add remaining cream, still whisking.

Divide the mixture among the custard cups, filling them about 3/4 of the way to the top. Place about 1/2 inch of boiling water into baking pan. Bake until the custards are almost set, about 25 minutes. The centers should jiggle slightly. Remove from the water. Cool at room temperature for 20 minutes, then refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours.

Just before serving, preheat a broiler and place the oven rack on the top setting or get out a hand-held crème brûlée torch. Sprinkle 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons brown sugar evenly over each individual portion. Carefully broil or torch the tops of the ramekins to caramelize the sugar.

Per serving: 393 calories (percent of calories from fat, 74), 4 grams protein, 23 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, 33 grams fat (19 grams saturated), 251 milligrams cholesterol, 37 milligrams sodium.

Hearty Coffee Chili

6-8 servings
Hands on: 30 minutes
Total time: 1 hour

This hearty chili uses cocoa powder and brewed coffee to coax deeper flavors. Add extra chili powder, cayenne or Tabasco if you want more heat.

2 pounds lean ground sirloin
1 onion, chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 heaping tablespoon chili powder, or to taste
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 cup coffee
1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce
1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
1 tablespoon white vinegar
1/2 to 1 cup water, optional
2 (15-ounce) cans dark kidney beans, drained and rinsed
Salt and freshly ground pepper

In a large stockpot, brown beef, breaking it up as it cooks. Drain if necessary. When the beef is almost cooked through, add onion, green pepper and garlic and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the chili powder, cocoa powder and sugar and stir well to combine. Add the coffee, tomato sauce, tomato paste and vinegar. Add water to desired consistency. Cook for about 30 minutes. Add kidney beans and cook until heated through. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Per serving (based on 6): 538 calories (percent of calories from fat, 44), 38 grams protein, 37 grams carbohydrates, 9 grams fiber, 27 grams fat (11 grams saturated), 104 milligrams cholesterol, 1,259 milligrams sodium.

Espresso Sorbet

6 servings
Hands on: 15 minutes
Total time: 15 minutes, plus several hours to chill and freeze

This sorbet is a refreshing and light ending to any meal. If serving at night, choose decaf beans.

1/2 cup espresso beans, finely ground
2 3/4 cups water, divided
1 vanilla bean
3/4 cup granulated sugar

Make espresso coffee with the ground beans and 2 cups water. Add the vanilla bean and set aside. In a saucepan, combine the remaining 3/4 cup water and sugar. Bring to a boil, and cook until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and combine with the coffee. Refrigerate until chilled. Discard the vanilla bean and freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's directions.

— Adapted from "Martha Stewart Cookbook" (Clarkson Potter, $35)

Per serving: 114 calories (none from fat), 1 gram protein, 28 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, no fat, no cholesterol, 3 milligrams sodium.

Espresso Martini

1 serving
Hands on: 5 minutes
Total time: 5 minutes

Martini-mania shows no sign of abating anytime soon. Here it joins forces with cold coffee. Cookbook author Sara Perry recommends topping it with a bit of whipped cream and a malted milk ball for a festive presentation.

2 ounces vodka
1 ounce espresso
1/2 ounce Kahlua
Ice

In a martini shaker, add vodka, espresso and Kahlua and fill with ice. Shake and strain into a chilled martini glass.

— From "The New Complete Coffee Book"

by Sara Perry (Chronicle, $16.95)

Per serving: 182 calories (percent of calories from fat, 3), trace protein, 7 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, trace fat (no saturated), no cholesterol, 6 milligrams sodium.

Cappuccino Smoothie

6 servings
Hands on: 5 minutes

This idea for an after-dinner dessert drink comes from "More Cooking Secrets of the C.I.A." (Chronicle, $14.95), the companion cookbook to the public television series "Cooking Secrets of the C.I.A." (that stands for Culinary Institute of America, by the way).

2 cups cold brewed espresso or double-strength coffee
1 pint coffee ice cream
6 cups ice
1 1/2 cups milk
Whipped cream as needed
Ground cinnamon as needed

In a blender, blend espresso, ice cream, ice and milk until smooth. Divide among 6 stemmed glasses. Top each with a dollop of whipped cream and a sprinkle of cinnamon. Serve with a straw.

For Mocha Cappuccino Smoothies: Substitute chocolate sorbet for the ice cream and chocolate milk for the regular milk. Sprinkle cocoa or chocolate shavings instead of cinnamon.

Per serving: 160 calories, 4 grams protein, 10 grams fat (percent calories from fat, 56), 14 grams carbohydrates, 70 milligrams cholesterol, 50 milligrams sodium.