Contributor: Sara Vogel, a teacher who lives in Roswell.

The story: "I would like to nominate one of my mom's recipes for this [project.] Her name is Aliece Wells. She is a native Georgian and grew up in a farming community known as Bemis, near Valdosta. She is an excellent Southern cook, and we had fresh, made-from- scratch meals every day of my life. Her chicken and dressing, pot roast, meatloaf, fresh green beans, tiny butterbeans and peas (hand shelled, of course — a sheller does not do a good enough job!) and mac and cheese can't be beat.

LOUIE FAVORITE/AJC (ENLARGE)

Baker Sonya Jones shows her version of a lemon cheese layer cake to Aliece Wells, who said it tasted just right.

Family photo (ENLARGE)

Sara Vogel recalls her mother making three cakes and slicing the layers in half.

Archive of restoration recipes Archive of restoration recipes Anne Quatrano Co-chef/owner of Bacchanalia, Quinones, Star Provisions and Floataway Cafe in Atlanta  Even ketchup was made from scratch  These deviled eggs were made with loving care  Green Congealed Salad is perfect comfort dessert for summer  This spice cake takes extra time, but it's worth it  'Extra special' folks got to eat asparagus casserole  This strawberry cake is well worth the fuss  Sad Cake will put a smile on your face  Mother has real talent for handling hot potatoes  In big family, 'you always had a dessert'

"But she really excels in the dessert category. Her poundcake is the best, and she always made our birthday cakes — 'striped cake' for my sons, a six-layer yellow cake with her chocolate fudge frosting. I've never tasted a better one! But my favorite, and a true Southern recipe, is her lemon cheese cake.

"This was always my birthday cake and was a staple at holidays. I don't know a lot of people who know what this cake is. It is not a cheesecake and has no cream cheese in it; it is a layer cake with a lemon curd filling.

"Mom would make it in three cake pans and slice the layers in half so it had six layers of the yummy filling — then frost the outside with a cooked white icing. It literally does melt in your mouth!

"I have tried to cook this cake for my family, but it never has the same tenderness and texture as hers. She says it must be her oven, but when she moved to a retirement community with a different oven, hers still tasted the same and mine does not. I think it is a lot of love and a "touch" she has for knowing the moment it is done.

"If you had my version of this cake, you would think it was great, but it does not match hers. She does not bake any longer — she has recovered from two broken hips and a broken shoulder. She is very active and her mind is sharper than mine, and she reads your paper without her glasses!

"I think I forgot to tell you she will be 93 in October. Try this recipe and see what you think."

Chef's interpretation: Chef Sonya Jones of Sweet Auburn Bread Co. couldn't wait to try this cake. It was one she was already very familiar with, having baked it for her godmother many years ago as a young teen.

"She thought I couldn't make it," she said. "But I found the recipe in an old cookbook and made it. I just love old recipes."

Other than adjusting quantities of a few of the ingredients slightly, she left the recipe intact — but wanted to come up with a simpler cupcake version for handy serving.

"Cupcakes are very popular now, supporting the trend for single-serve desserts," she said. "They are nostalgic yet hip, and evoke fond childhood memories — just as this layer cake does."

She piped the white frosting into the center ("I call that the Twinkie effect") and then frosted it with the curd. For a final flourish, she decorated it with organic flowers from Morningside Farmers Market. If you don't want to mess with the Seven-Minute Frosting, the trickiest part of the recipe, you could omit it and frost the whole thing with lemon curd.

Where you can sample them: Sonya Jones will be offering these cupcakes at Sweet Auburn Bread Co. (234 Auburn Ave., 404-221-1157) during the Sweet Auburn Springfest 2006, May 12-14. They may be specially ordered anytime. She'll also serve them at Morningside Farmers Market (next to Food 101 restaurant, 1395 N. Highland Ave.) at an edible- flower demonstration from 8 to 11:30 a.m. May 20.

— Susan Puckett and Virginia Willis

Aliece Wells' Lemon Cheese Layer Cake

1 cake or 27 cupcakes

Hands on: 30 minutes Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes

The unusual name of this old-fashioned layer cake was initially puzzling, as there is no cheese in the cake, filling or frosting. It seems that the usage of the word cheese is a result of the lemon curd filling, and of course, curds (and whey) are what make cheese.

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, plus more for the pan

3 cups cake flour, not self-rising, preferably Swan's Down, plus

more for the pan

2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups granulated sugar

4 large eggs, room temperature

1 cup whole milk, room temperature

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Lemon Curd Filling, recipe follows

Seven-Minute Frosting, recipe follows

Optional: Organic edible flowers such as violets, Johnny-jump-ups or nasturtiums (for these cakes, Jones got flowers from Woodland Gardens Organic Produce, which sells them on Saturday mornings at Morningside Farmers Market)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Arrange two racks in center of oven. Butter three 9-inch round cake pans; line bottoms with parchment paper. Dust bottoms and sides of pans with flour; tap out any excess.

 In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder and salt; set aside.

 In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter on medium speed until softened, 1 to 2 minutes. Gradually add the sugar, beating on medium speed until lightened, 3 to 4 minutes; scrape down sides once or twice. Add eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition.

On low speed, alternately add flour mixture and milk, a little of each at a time, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Beat in the vanilla.

 Divide the batter evenly among the prepared pans. Bake until a cake tester inserted into the center of each cake comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer the pans to a wire rack to cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Turn out cakes; set on racks, tops up, until completely cool.

 Remove the parchment from bottom of each cake. Using a serrated knife, slice each layer in half horizontally. Set aside the prettiest domed layer for the top of the cake. Place another domed layer, dome side down, on a cake platter.

Spread about 1/2 cup of lemon curd over surface to within 1/2 inch of edge. Place second cake layer over the first and spread 1/2 cup of lemon curd on top. Repeat with remaining curd and layers, including lemon curd on the top of the cake. Transfer the partially assembled cake to the refrigerator to set, at least 30 minutes.

Place some of the Seven-Minute Frosting in a piping bag fitted with a round tip. Pipe around the edges of the top layer of the cake to create a dam around the lemon curd. Using an offset spatula, frost the sides of the cake with the remainder of the Seven- Minute Frosting. Garnish around the bottom and on top of the cake with edible flowers.

Cupcake variation: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line regular-size muffin tins with 27 paper cups (fill empty cups partially with water). Follow the cake recipe preparation; pour batter into the cups, filling each 3/4 full. Transfer to oven and bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool.

Once cooled, place the Seven-Minute Frosting in a pastry bag fitted with a small round tip. Push the tip through the top of each cupcake; insert frosting. Using a small offset spatula, cover each top with a heaping tablespoon of lemon curd. Pipe small swirls of frosting around the edges of the curd-coated cupcakes. Place edible flowers at the center of half the cupcakes and place edible flowers around the edge of the remaining cupcakes.

Per cupcake (includes filling and frosting): 619 calories (percent of calories from fat, 30), 37 grams protein, 72 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 20 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 88 milligrams cholesterol, 459 milligrams sodium.

Lemon Curd Filling

2 cups

Hands on: 10 minutes Total time: 10 minutes

1 cup granulated sugar 

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1 cup water 

5 large egg yolks, room temperature

1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

Small pinch of salt

Zest of 2 lemons 

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, diced and chilled, plus more for the plastic wrap

Whisk together sugar, cornstarch, water, yolks, lemon juice and salt in a medium-size heavy saucepan. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture is thickened, 4 to 5 minutes.

Remove from heat and whisk in the lemon zest and butter, a little at a time. To prevent a skin from forming, press a piece of buttered plastic wrap onto the surface. Cool, then cover and refrigerate until use.

Seven-Minute Frosting

About 4 cups

Hands on: 10 minutes Total time: 10 minutes

The combination of egg whites and sugar can be very difficult to work with in rainy or very humid weather. This method of making Seven-Minute Frosting doesn't always take 7 minutes – it may take a little longer, but it is a very stable method that is likely to ensure good results.

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1/3 cup warm water

2 large egg whites, room temperature

1 tablespoon light corn syrup

Pinch of fine salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Combine the sugar, water, egg whites, corn syrup and salt in the heatproof bowl of an electric mixer. Place the bowl over a bowl of simmering water and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is very warm to the touch or registers 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, 2 to 4 minutes.

Attach bowl to a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat mixture on high speed until glossy and voluminous, about 5 minutes. Beat in vanilla. Use immediately.