Evening Edge
What’s For Dinner?
BISCUITS FROM SCRATCH
Dough issues? The biscuit doctor is inSpecial to EveningEdge.com
Published on: 03/19/08

Few foods feed Southerners' souls like homemade biscuits.
Or feed our insecurities.
| Scott Peacock | ||
|
Believe me, I understand this well. In rural Alabama where I grew up, my father teased my mother mercilessly about her biscuit-making skills, which in his estimation never measured up to the ones his mother made for him twice a day.
"These look and taste just like the Himalayan Mountains. Hard as them, too!" he used to say. No wonder she turned the biscuit-baking duties over to Pop N. Fresh.
Biscuits aren't hard to make, but it's taken me two decades to achieve my gold standard: Crusty and golden brown on top (and lightly browned on the bottoms, too), with an interior that's soft, light and tender but not too fluffy; slightly moist but not gummy when you eat it. It should be well-seasoned, with a slight buttermilk tang — no larger than three inches in diameter and no more than an inch or so in height. I'm no fan of those big, Hollywood-pumped-up-on-steroids-looking biscuits.
Ingredients are hugely important, especially the fat. Most people nowadays use vegetable shortening, but that's a weak substitute at best for lard.
Do you have tales of biscuit triumphs or tears? Do you have a favorite way to make, or eat them? Or a particularly fond memory? Do share.
I'll be checking in from time to time to offer support or answer questions — whatever I can do to get your fingers in the flour!



DEL.ICIO.US
Comments
By Larry Wayne
May 23, 2008 9:29 AM | Link to this
Scott..
I just finished a breakfast where I used your recipe for biscuits. Although a pretty well seasoned biscuit maker, leaning more toward Angel Biscuits, lately I've not had a lot of success with my biscuits. Whooaa, Nellie!!! Then your recipe!!! Nothing short of absolutely scrumptious...down to the homemade baking powder. Lawd, these bicuits had flavor!! Way one person sitting at the table put it, "this is just a bit on the heavenly side of earth!"
Thanks. BTW, y'all, if you haven't tried this recipe, and you like good biscuits, then y'all better get on the wagon 'cause you 'ain't' tasted biscuits 'till you've tried these.
By AngelaF
May 3, 2008 4:49 PM | Link to this
Scott,
I have never been able to make biscuits that could be used for anything other than a hockey puck. Every Southern cook I know tells me that I handle the dough too roughly and too much. (I don't know what that means.) So, I'm going to read, re-read and re-read your instructions again and try to make your recipe.
By Laura
Apr 14, 2008 8:47 AM | Link to this
Scott, My 4 year old is allergic to wheat, eggs, dairy, and peanuts. I can't blame her for not liking the comercially available breads. Most of the Gluten-Free baking flours I've tried are equally as bad. After much trial and error, I've found a combination of Oat flour (ground from Gluten-Free Oats)and soy Flour will make a very tasty oatmeal cookie. Is it possible to make a "good" wheat-free biscuit?
By Starr
Mar 26, 2008 9:36 AM | Link to this
Hi Scott,
I don't eat pork so I would like to replace the Lard with butter or shortening. Which would you suggest?
Starr
By Christine
Mar 24, 2008 12:40 PM | Link to this
I cut out the article in last week's paper and headed to the grocery story. I purchased every ingredient including a bag of White Lily flour even though I had bought another brand the previous week! I made my own baking powder as you recommend. I hung the article on my kitchen cabinet door so I could follow the directions step by step. How did they turn out? Well, they definitely would get a passing grade but not an "A". Maybe I over-worked the dough... maybe my little lard pieces weren't the right size. I don't know. All I know is that I was covered in flour and left wondering IF I would ever try again... okay, I probably will!
Christine
By Cheryl
Mar 21, 2008 11:01 PM | Link to this
I have spent more than 25 years unsuccessfully trying to make my grandmother's biscuits. They were so good, my cousins and I used to fight for the last one. They were best with butter and her homemade pear preserves, but they were also great plain--hot or cold. She kept a huge wooden bowl of flour under the counter covered with a dish cloth and when she made bisquits, all she had to do was work lard into the flour (she never measured out the flour, just started working in lard in the giant bowl and magically the right amount of flour was used), work the buttermilk in, then scoop out dough and form the biscuits by hand. She always baked them touching in a round cake pan and broke them apart when they were done. My question is this: is there a reason for using a rolling pin and biscuit cutter? And, does it make a difference for the biscuits to be baked "touching" each other vs. separately? Thanks!
By scott peacock
Mar 21, 2008 10:15 AM | Link to this
kara,
of course a beginner can make biscuits, and think how impressed your friends and family will be when you tell them you made your own baking powder, too!
just read the recipe carefully and refer to the images and tips in the article. and if you're feeling nervous, give yourself time to make a practice batch or two. you'll have fun and build your confidence at the same time.
if you do run into problems, write back in and i'll do whatever i can do to help you out. be fearless!
good luck and have fun
By scott peacock
Mar 21, 2008 10:04 AM | Link to this
hi linda,
i'm sure you can use whole wheat to makes biscuits, but i must admit i've never tried, so it's a bit out of my realm of expertise. as for herbs, it would depend on what you were planning on serving them with, but for the most part i think i would stick with a lighter, fresher tasting herb like chives, for example, and keep it on the simple side.
please give kenny my best. he's a great guy!
By scott peacock
Mar 21, 2008 9:12 AM | Link to this
jeff, thanks for the kind words. i'm very happy to hear that you'll be firing up the oven for some lard biscuits this weekend. also glad you and your brother are coming to watershed, just be sure that if you are coming for the biscuits, you come either on a tuesday night or sunday brunch. at the moment, those are the only days we serve biscuits.
By scott peacock
Mar 21, 2008 9:04 AM | Link to this
hi julie,
a hot, hot oven would be 500 degrees for buttermilk biscuits, and 450 for cream biscuits
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