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Tuesday, October 3, 2006

Barbecue joint’s critics not just blowing smoke

Where there’s smoke, there might be some ‘cue.

Some say there’s a tad too much of the former flowing from Dreamland barbecue restaurant in Norcross. Residents and at least one business owner have complained about the thick smoke that pours out of its smokestacks.

It’s not the distinct smell of hickory that irritates people. It’s the smoke plume that occasionally wafts across Peachtree Parkway and settles in the parking lot of Interlochen Village, a strip mall behind Dreamland.

“I get a couple of calls every few weeks about the smoke,” said Bert Nasuti, the Gwinnett County commissioner.

The state Environmental Protection Division has heard the complaints, too. J. Tilden Bembry, an environmental specialist, recently paid a visit. The EPD can’t do anything about the smoke, though.

Dreamland cooks food for human consumption. Because of that, Bembry said, it’s exempt from having to have an air quality permit. He even cited the state code: 391-3-.03, under the exemption section at georgiaepd.org.

“Basically, they use wood as fuel to make their barbecue,” he said. “Essentially, (Dreamland) is like Burger King, which uses natural gas. Since it’s preparing food for immediate consumption, it’s exempt” from state air quality control laws.

Yeah, but what about county zoning?

Before Dreamland, the building was home to Mario’s Italian restaurant. Dreamland never came through the zoning process because the site was already approved for a restaurant.

“Had it come through the zoning process, we probably would have put some smoke abatement requirements on it,” Nasuti said. “I love having good barbecue in Peachtree Corners, but there aren’t a whole lot of restaurants putting out that kind of smoke.”

Poppycock, said Tony Williams, Dreamland’s general manager.

“It’s not that heavy of a smoke,” he told me. “It’s aromatic. It disperses quickly. We get a lot of business from people who come through the intersection and smell it.”

They can’t help but smell it.

And see it.

State Rep. Tom Rice of Peachtree Corners dropped by the strip mall one morning to see what his constituents were crowing about. He saw a parking lot covered in blue smoke.

“I think it’s offensive to people who not only work but shop there,” he said. “I don’t necessarily know whether it’s hazardous, but it’s certainly offensive.”

Sticky, too.

Staff at Interlochen Village Cleaners de-grease their windshields before they head home. Smoke apparently leaves a film. Jill and Gary Tabor don’t open the doors of the dry cleaners anymore. If they do, they get smoked out.

“I’m for anybody making money,” Jill Tabor said. “But this is aggravating.”

When Tabor complained to Williams, she suggested raising the restaurant’s smokestack. He obliged. The smoke is still an issue, though.

Dreamland isn’t going anywhere. It’s too popular and too good. Residents, business owners and mall patrons shouldn’t have to put up with all this smoke, either.

Maybe a deal can be meted out.

“I’d love to chat with them about this,” Rice said.

Nasuti plans to schedule a meeting so he and Rice can huddle with the owners.

For the sake of some tasty pig, I bet they work something out.

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