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Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Top Chef’s Tom Colicchio

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LARGE AND IN CHARGE: Cutey pie chef Tom Colicchio opens Craft Atlanta and Craftbar

Photo: Courtesy of the Reynolds Group

With Craft Atlanta and Craftbar opening this week, I sat down with chef-owner Tom Colicchio last Friday at a Starbucks close to the restaurant. Dressed in jeans, a gray sweater and wearing his trademark black beret (backwards, of course), he talked freely about the restaurant, Atlanta, his management philosophy and, as you’ll read below, playing the guitar.

Q: You’ve opened Craft at other locations around the country. What makes Atlanta’s Craft different? A: Well, the design element of this restaurant is by far the most beautiful of any we’ve done. The designer, Peter Bentel, has been with us from the beginning, and this location is stunning. This is also the first time that Craft and Craftbar will be open in the same space. Plus, I’ve finally been able to include the design of a wood-burning stove I came up with years ago when I was at Gramercy Tavern.

Q: You chose a seasoned chef, Kevin Maxey, from inside your management team to lead Craft’s kitchen in Atlanta. Why not someone local? A: Kevin has been with me for seven years, starting in New York, then Dallas. It wouldn’t be fair to the dedicated staff I’ve had for years to hire someone just because they are from Atlanta. I like to allow the people who work for me to have free reign over what’s prepared, too — I don’t dictate a menu, just a style. And that wouldn’t be possible with someone who hasn’t worked with me for very long. We have hired over 100 people for the Atlanta location, so I don’t feel too badly about it.

Q: What can Atlantans expect to eat when they visit Craft or Craftbar? A: The same types of dishes that are served at Craft in New York — Craftbar has braised pork shoulder with white beans and collards, smoked house-made sausage with cole slaw. Craftbar’s menu is much more casual, with nothing on the menu for more than about $25. We’re stressing local ingredients on both menus.

Q: What’s your favorite thing to eat right now? A: Porcini mushrooms. Or morels.

Q: You’ve got a really busy schedule, especially when you add “Top Chef” into the mix. Do you still cook? A: I love to cook. We reserve a private room at Craft (in New York) every Tuesday so that I can cook a nine-course prix fixe.

Q: What restaurants have you tried in Atlanta? A: I enjoyed Holeman & Finch. That burger thing they do was fun. I’m planning on going to Shaun’s.

Q: What would you do if you had more time in your day? A: Play the guitar. I’ve got my eye on a pricey Olson that’s for sale on the Internet right now, but I’m just not sure ..

Craft Atlanta and Craftbar are located in a free-standing building at The Mansion on Peachtree at 3376 Peachtree Road. Both restaurants are open for dinner seven days a week on Monday, Dec. 8, and Craftbar will also serve lunch beginning Jan. 5, 2009. For more information, call 404.995.7580.

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